I was inspired by IvIark's
Fuzz (Sur)Face layout, and the Retro-Channel Fuzz with a proprietary fuzz chip, I mean Tonebender MkII with a CA3046, was next on my list, so I bought an SMD cap and resistor kit (size 1206) and came up with a hybrid SMD/thru-hole vero layout for this puppy. For the most part I followed
marshmellow's schem, but made a few minor mods after breadboarding:
- R9: 100k -> 33k
- C4: 100p -> 47p
- Pin 7: Can go directly to ground, or through antiparallel diodes (choice of Si or Ge) via on/on/on DPDT. (Thanks to mictester for the idea.) Compared to stock, the Ge diodes give a slightly fuzzier/less muscular tone - a nice but subtle variation in texture, possibly too subtle to be noticed in a band context. The Si diodes give a splatty, gated sound (reminiscent of mis-biased fuzz face) that I also like a lot.
The result is fairly compact:
The full layout picture shows both sides of the board at once and is kind of ugly, but it's useful for designing and double-checking the layout. Individually, each side is pretty neatly laid out.
The layout is verified by me and sounds great. Here's my build:
I didn't use any shielded wire this time, but with a battery or regulated adapter it's dead quiet.
Notes:
- I didn't have any 620R resistors, so the layout uses a 470R and 150R in series.
- SMD components in parallel is ridiculously simple. Just stack them. My kit didn't come with 18k resistors, so I stacked a 100k and a 22k.
- The trace cuts underneath SMD components need to be smaller than I tend to get with a drill bit. I ended up using a razor blade and a needle file, but I'm still looking for a better solution, and I'm open to suggestions. I experimented on some scrap vero with the Dremel diamond wheel that I use to cut my boards, but the diameter is too big and I always ended up unintentionally cutting the neighboring tracks.
- The SMD connections are not centered on holes, so you can fit them anywhere you like and the thru-hole parts on the other side won't get in the way.
- This should have been obvious before I built it, but wasn't: Solder all the SMD before anything else. It's much easier that way. If both pads have solder on them already, you have to heat both leads simultaneously to make the SMD lay flat. It's possible to do, but it's tricky and the component wants to stick to the iron tip and move around. It's easier to just solder one side and then the other. If the SMD is soldered on both leads, heating up the track for a nearby thru-hole component won't push it out of place. My next hybrid build will be neater and faster.
- As so many of you know already, hand-soldering SMD is not as hard as it sounds, as long as you use a fine-point tip. In many ways its easier than thru-hole. This build turned out so well that I plan to incorporate SMD in all my vero layouts from now on. The layouts come out much smaller and neater. Layouts are also easier to do when I don't have to customize them to fit my caps, which I get from a surplus store and are all different shapes and sizes.
- On/on/on DPDT's come in two configurations. Double-check yours with a DMM, and reverse the jumper if necessary.
- After building this, I realized that the diode selection could be done with a on/off/on DPDT, which might be easier for some people to find. Here's the alternative switch arrangement:

- alt_switch.png (14.42 KiB) Viewed 2632 times
This should work as long as D4 and D5 have higher Vf than D6 and D7, respectively.