RMC Wizard Wah Guts

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vanessa
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Post by snail »

I came up with a schematic for this one.
To my eyes a traditional vox layout, but the catch here, and I had to go test in my wah to see if that would sound good, was to reduce a bit of the overall voltage to the system by a 1K5 from the batery. It did produce some tonal difference!
Nice choice of trannies, my favourites (for SI)!

The only resistor we cannot see from the picture is the input resistor, but with the help of the component list from that japanese site (assuming it is right) it ended up 47K.

Please feel free to correct the schemo if you find any flaw, I did it based only on the pictures and the japanese component list as good as I could with my (nonexistent) japanese skills.

My only doubt: would the 10pf caps on the trannies be any good for as low a value as 10pf or should it be increased a bit, or what?

thanks!

Happy new year to everyone!

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Post by bajaman »

Thanks Snail :wink: :D
Note the 6.8uf NP capacitor - a big part of a good wah sound is to remove the stock polarised 4.7uf typically used in Dunlop wahs. I normally use a 3.3uf NP electro in parallel with a 680n film type here, giving a total capacitance of 4uf. i have never gone as high as 6.8uf though.
The 10pf capacitors are a nice touch - you could go as high as 100p here if you wanted to. They restrict the amplification in the rf region - very helpful. Also notice the nice grey film type 220n capacitors etc. - no shit mylar greencap crap in here.
Nice colour case too. Good work Geoffrey :wink:
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Post by snail »

bajaman wrote: I normally use a 3.3uf NP electro in parallel with a 680n film type here, giving a total capacitance of 4uf.
Nice hint!
I'm gonna try that, got the wah cracked open anyway!

I was (am) currently with multilayer NP 4,7uf, any pros or against that one on this case?

Thanks Bajaman!

snail

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Post by vanessa »

bajaman wrote:Thanks Snail :wink: :D
Note the 6.8uf NP capacitor - a big part of a good wah sound is to remove the stock polarised 4.7uf typically used in Dunlop wahs. I normally use a 3.3uf NP electro in parallel with a 680n film type here, giving a total capacitance of 4uf. i have never gone as high as 6.8uf though.
The 10pf capacitors are a nice touch - you could go as high as 100p here if you wanted to. They restrict the amplification in the rf region - very helpful. Also notice the nice grey film type 220n capacitors etc. - no shit mylar greencap crap in here.
Nice colour case too. Good work Geoffrey :wink:
bajaman
I've never messed with those values. I'll have to have a go at it. :wink:

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Post by Barata »

Does anyone have any pcb of wizard wha?
Post it please!

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Post by bajaman »

I have to build a wah for a friend - i was just thinking about using the RMC Wizard wah board layout too - honestly.
Give me a few days to draw one up or perhaps Geoffrey may supply you one if you ask him nicely :lol: :wink:
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Post by Bernardduur »

Nice pedal!

I had a empty wah pedal laying around so I build it into it......

Sounds so sweet!
'No more....... loud music.......'
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Post by snail »

Barata wrote:Does anyone have any pcb of wizard wha?
Post it please!
just get any wah wah layout already on the web, they're pretty much all the same (the vox family anyway) and sub the parts. Prety easy!

BTW I checked my drawing again and I forgot to name one 470K resistor and the pot (probably 100K, but who knows the taper?), that would not bother anyone as these are prety run off the mill values, but just for the record!

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Post by analogguru »

snail wrote:
BTW I checked my drawing again and I forgot to name one 470K resistor and the pot (probably 100K, but who knows the taper?), that would not bother anyone as these are prety run off the mill values, but just for the record!

snail
I would suggest 220k for the poti.

analogguru
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Post by vanessa »

I think he uses 200k for his "icar" pots.

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Post by Barata »

Thank you alot bajaman!

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Post by Barata »

Any suggestion for the inductor? What about a halo replica?
(do you know where I can find halo replicas in Europe?)
Thank you!

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Post by vanessa »

The red dunlop would most likely be the closest to the Teese design. He prefers the later stack of dimes over the halo. Honestly there's not much of a difference, more hype BS than anything.

:wink:

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Post by soulsonic »

I wonder how many angry emails and phone calls Effector Repair has received from Mr. Teese? :roll:

One thing of special interest though; see how easily and cleanly that red goop came off? That's the same stuff the Cornish pedals have on them... hint, hint. :wink:
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Post by ODwan »

soulsonic wrote:I wonder how many angry emails and phone calls Effector Repair has received from Mr. Teese? :roll:

One thing of special interest though; see how easily and cleanly that red goop came off? That's the same stuff the Cornish pedals have on them... hint, hint. :wink:
Seems to be just the same laquer the case is painted with. If it is some type of acrylic it would be easy to peel off, because dry to a sort of skin on the medium.
Greetings,
Timo

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Post by Bernardduur »

Small mod....... I think

I was trying to build it but did not have the suitable items to complete is. So I just replaced those with the things I had......
Now that I build a "real" one I must say I thought the former one, the one with the "wrong" items sounded much much better.... so here is that mod

- I used a "cheap" Dunlop inductor I got in my JH-1 pedal
- I used two BC108C's for transistors
- Used a 1k5 for the feedback loop (instead of 1k6); the 1k5 is a 1W resistor
- Used a 470 ohm resistor instead of the 360 ohm on the first transistor

The sound is much more mellow; the wah is opening up, lots more travel in the midrange and less bass / treble on the sweep. Much more usefull for me! The sound is also, I don't know how to say it, more buttery........ (????); warm, open, breathing........

I keep it this way :)
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Post by moro »

ODwan wrote: Seems to be just the same laquer the case is painted with. If it is some type of acrylic it would be easy to peel off, because dry to a sort of skin on the medium.
According to that page, it's some sort of spray on rubber.

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Post by soulsonic »

moro wrote:
ODwan wrote: Seems to be just the same laquer the case is painted with. If it is some type of acrylic it would be easy to peel off, because dry to a sort of skin on the medium.
According to that page, it's some sort of spray on rubber.
Thanks for the translation!

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