L'Overdrive de la Révolution Deux - A tribute to FS.org!
- modman
- a d m i n
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A small update:
I kicked out a rotten trimpot and got some better biasing on the LORD -- and of course the sound improved radically with tonecontrol engaged. I measured these voltages at 8,93V
Q1 = 2N7000
D = 6,65V
G = 3,26V
S = 1,36V
Q2 = 2N5457
D = 4,63V
S= 0,73V
G = 0V
Q3 = SK117
D = 5,50V
S= 0,13V
G = 0V
There really is dramatic headroom improvement when you feed the circuit more than 9V, but over 12V I hardly hear any improvement. I had the same with other jfet circuits like minibooster based designs. Some more pictures later....
I kicked out a rotten trimpot and got some better biasing on the LORD -- and of course the sound improved radically with tonecontrol engaged. I measured these voltages at 8,93V
Q1 = 2N7000
D = 6,65V
G = 3,26V
S = 1,36V
Q2 = 2N5457
D = 4,63V
S= 0,73V
G = 0V
Q3 = SK117
D = 5,50V
S= 0,13V
G = 0V
There really is dramatic headroom improvement when you feed the circuit more than 9V, but over 12V I hardly hear any improvement. I had the same with other jfet circuits like minibooster based designs. Some more pictures later....
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- modman
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will post some more observations on the layout in the etching thread.
But here's the file I used if anybody would like to use it (for a Hammond 1590BB) - did replace the toggle with a footswitch to control the gain boost that you get by cutting out the tone circuit. Check the measurements of your print and resize accordingly. I printed at 67% - this way you get better resolution on the fonts than working 1/1
L'ORD Etching mask
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- briggs
- Tube Twister
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- modman
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With a 3mm drill bitbriggs wrote:How did you mount those LED's modman?


thanks
ps: jfet on their way
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Torchy
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Thanks for the coconut!
Also, shouldn't lug 3 of the gain pot connect to the bottom leg (source) of the mosfet, and also shouldn't C1 and R1 connect to the middle leg (gate)... just like in the box of rock...
i just built a BoR based on your vero (thanks! by the way), so it's still fresh in my mind...
Also, shouldn't lug 3 of the gain pot connect to the bottom leg (source) of the mosfet, and also shouldn't C1 and R1 connect to the middle leg (gate)... just like in the box of rock...
i just built a BoR based on your vero (thanks! by the way), so it's still fresh in my mind...
-
Torchy
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I think I used a jfet instead of a mosfet when I built mine, so I may have used a DSG pinout - I'll check it over 
-
Torchy
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- briggs
- Tube Twister
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- briggs
- Tube Twister
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- nihoneiga
- Breadboard Brother
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: 20 Feb 2009, 01:13
- my favorite amplifier: 63' Fender Bandmaster
- Completed builds: Maestro MFZ-1 (my favorite), 1977 Big Muff, Fuzz Factory, EA Tremolo, Super Hard-on, ROG Tubescreamer
- Location: Los Angeles
So along with Modman I'm thinking to build this guy up with the gain boost switch as a foot switch but I'm kinda new to this and don't have confidence on how the gain boost switch would be wired in. According to the schematic there is a little asterisk by the tone section, would you just wire in a DPDT switch there that would allow bypass?
Also, on a different but equally newbie note, how do you measure the values of the transistors as you adjust the trim pots? Is there a general guideline to which way you turn the trims etc?
Look forward to having it up and screaming!
Also, on a different but equally newbie note, how do you measure the values of the transistors as you adjust the trim pots? Is there a general guideline to which way you turn the trims etc?
Look forward to having it up and screaming!
- briggs
- Tube Twister
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The tone stack is wired in to be bypassed as you say - the trim pots, you measure the voltage between the Jfet drain and the positive supply. Son't worry about which way to turn them, you won't cause damage by going the wrong way. It's a while since I came up with this - I remember is sounding a lot better at 18v. Good luck with your build - any other questions, post away 
- Ben N
- Cap Cooler
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