Catalinbread - Naga Viper  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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mysticwhiskey
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Post by mysticwhiskey »

I could be wrong, but your 'Heat' pot looks to be wired backwards. At minimum rotation, your heat pot presents a resistance of 0 ohms. The pot on the vero and pcb layouts has a resistance of 1Kohm at minimum rotation. When I did the PCB layout I checked the photos that jwpartain had posted, and you can see the heat pot has pins 1 and connected together, going to the 47u cap.

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coldcraft
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Post by coldcraft »

i'm sorry, i thought we were talking about the boost control.

the boost pot is linear so we can swap it, as long as 2 is tied to either 3 or 1.

Heat pot is log, so it must go in the correct way. however, if it happens to sound as if the taper is weird, you just need to swap the 2nd lug to the other arrangement.

I can't offer any layout review at this time, I've never really worked with vero before.
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Post by jimmybjj »

Image

Pot numbers are backwards in the layout diagram, but everything is correct. Any of you eagle experts know how to change the pot numbers with out having to change the layout? board can be pot mounted and fit in a 1590b

Layout

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jimmybjj
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Post by jimmybjj »

layout updated and correct.

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okgb
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Post by okgb »

Really it's easy enough to just follow the schematic and make a literal translation
that's how i did my ptp with so few parts , no problem , nothing crossing over or jumpers
nice board though
and aren't both pots linear B with just the range being log ?

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ezs
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Post by ezs »

Does Heat look correct now?

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okgb
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Post by okgb »

The input needs to go directly to the board first , at the very least ,
I did mine with the three caps connected at the input point then .68 to the range pot

I don't think it matters ? maybe easier to wire but using the vero sideways like that
makes it easier to copy the schematic think of it as rails for input , ground , pwr

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roseblood11
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Post by roseblood11 »

The 2n2222 is a very noisy part, it's used in the LofoMofo only because of that reason... Wouldn't it be better to use a low noise transistor with low hfe? Maybe BC549A or s.th. similar?

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ezs
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Post by ezs »

okgb wrote:The input needs to go directly to the board first , at the very least ,
I did mine with the three caps connected at the input point then .68 to the range pot

I don't think it matters ? maybe easier to wire but using the vero sideways like that
makes it easier to copy the schematic think of it as rails for input , ground , pwr
Input should be good? Ill try it out in a few, kinda swamped with gear. Will post results, Thanks guys.

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okgb
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Post by okgb »

maybe it just looks odd input going to the pot first , i'd still make it go to the board
and caps so it's always there , then jump off to the pot

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coldcraft
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Post by coldcraft »

roseblood11 wrote:The 2n2222 is a very noisy part, it's used in the LofoMofo only because of that reason... Wouldn't it be better to use a low noise transistor with low hfe? Maybe BC549A or s.th. similar?

I thought it was supposed to use 2n222, which is germanium...
Black Dynamite wrote:you need to shut the fuck up when grown folks is talkin.

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roseblood11
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Post by roseblood11 »

coldcraft wrote:
roseblood11 wrote:The 2n2222 is a very noisy part, it's used in the LofoMofo only because of that reason... Wouldn't it be better to use a low noise transistor with low hfe? Maybe BC549A or s.th. similar?

I thought it was supposed to use 2n222, which is germanium...

The picture is very clear: 2n2222a, in a to-92 case = npn silicon

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HEAD
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Post by HEAD »

roseblood11 wrote:
coldcraft wrote:
roseblood11 wrote:The 2n2222 is a very noisy part, it's used in the LofoMofo only because of that reason... Wouldn't it be better to use a low noise transistor with low hfe? Maybe BC549A or s.th. similar?

I thought it was supposed to use 2n222, which is germanium...

The picture is very clear: 2n2222a, in a to-92 case = npn silicon

It is a P2N2222A to be exactly. Which does make a difference - though most probably only in the pinout configuration. P2N2222A pinout is different from a PN2222A and as far as I know 2N2222A only appears in a TO-18 case.

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okgb
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Post by okgb »

Curious , i bought some 2N2222A to-18 Transistors for a mic preamp and they were specifically
marked audio , the few that i'm looking at now are marked NPN switching transistor
I was just glad i happened to have the one called for , but maybe something else will Sound better ?

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okgb
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Post by okgb »

Naive question , Is there a germanium transistor i can sub in ?
reversing the psu & diode would be easy

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roseblood11
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Post by roseblood11 »

Why would you do that? Do you like more hiss?
If you really want to do that, you might have to change some values, if the transistor has less gain. Have a look at the pdf about the "Austin Treble Booster" at geofex.com.

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okgb
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Post by okgb »

It may be the circuit and not the transistor but some of the ones I've heard
seem to have a slight squishy / compressed quality which i like .
That's why i'd want to do that , but i may be mistaken ,
the viper as I've built it , so far is not a keeper

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Post by okgb »

I see some of this discussion is covered on the red rooster thread
[ never knew what that was -til i looked ]
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4178

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ezs
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Post by ezs »

Naga Viper-2 EZS.gif
Naga Viper-2 EZS.gif (20.04 KiB) Viewed 2338 times
ezs wrote:
okgb wrote:The input needs to go directly to the board first , at the very least ,
I did mine with the three caps connected at the input point then .68 to the range pot

I don't think it matters ? maybe easier to wire but using the vero sideways like that
makes it easier to copy the schematic think of it as rails for input , ground , pwr
Input should be good? Ill try it out in a few, kinda swamped with gear. Will post results, Thanks guys.

I finally made it, heres the vero I used. Its pretty cool but I cant seem to notice the gain much. On my build its very very subtle. I a/b 'd it against the Brain Seltzer and its way better imo. Tested through a Mesa Nomad 45 clean channel, and it gives the right amount of push. Range knob is a hit.

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Post by ezs »

I just happen to have the (ON p2n2222a). The gain is more noticeable when the boost is backed off. Just a learning curve as Im playing this thing. Like it lots. I tried a 2n5088 and felt it was too bright. The 2n2222a has a more playable feel and tone.

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