Providence Stampede OD SOV-2 [traced]
Hi, I’m Olof.
I noticed someone mentioning Providence Stamped OD Sov-2 in the request section. I had a chance to borrow a SOV-2 from a friend. I took it apart and traced it. I’ve attached the circuit trace, a couple of pictures and a bill of materials.
I have NOT verified the trace by building the unit, but the traced circuit looks possible. Hope this is OK.
Sov-2 is assembled on two PCB’s. This is a +/-15V circuit. 9V is dropped to 5V on the SUB PCB by a TA78L005 3-pin regulator and then stepped up to +/-15V with a muRata NMA0515SC DC-converter. There are two 4558 opamps and one pair of clipper diodes which are unidentical. I could not see any codes on diodes even with a 7x loop.
-Olof
I noticed someone mentioning Providence Stamped OD Sov-2 in the request section. I had a chance to borrow a SOV-2 from a friend. I took it apart and traced it. I’ve attached the circuit trace, a couple of pictures and a bill of materials.
I have NOT verified the trace by building the unit, but the traced circuit looks possible. Hope this is OK.
Sov-2 is assembled on two PCB’s. This is a +/-15V circuit. 9V is dropped to 5V on the SUB PCB by a TA78L005 3-pin regulator and then stepped up to +/-15V with a muRata NMA0515SC DC-converter. There are two 4558 opamps and one pair of clipper diodes which are unidentical. I could not see any codes on diodes even with a 7x loop.
-Olof
- Attachments
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SOV-2-Binder-1.pdf- (280.45 KiB) Downloaded 1129 times
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SOV-2-Binder-2.pdf- (726.19 KiB) Downloaded 861 times
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SOV-2-BOM.pdf- (7.62 KiB) Downloaded 648 times
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SOV-2-circuit-revF.pdf- (58.02 KiB) Downloaded 1494 times
The small one with the blue band looks like a 1S1588 diode. I've never seen anything like the other one.
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks,
Andy
- mictester
- Old Solderhand
Information
So....
It's a Tubescreamer with op-amp input and output buffers (instead of transistors), mechanical switching, a bipolar supply rail (derived in a somewhat inefficient way - there's a lot of battery energy wasted in the drop to 5V and then some more in the SMPSU module) - and slightly dissimilar clipping diodes to give slightly asymmetrical clipping.
The two advantages of the 30V supply are that you can get a very big output voltage swing if you want, and you're unlikely to get the op-amps themselves to clip (which usually sounds really nasty). The disadvantages are high battery consumption, increased complexity and component cost, and the risk of introducing the high frequency switching artefacts from the SMPSU on to the output - these may be ultrasonic, but may well play havoc with subsequent BBD-based or digital effects with high frequency clocks!
It's a Tubescreamer with op-amp input and output buffers (instead of transistors), mechanical switching, a bipolar supply rail (derived in a somewhat inefficient way - there's a lot of battery energy wasted in the drop to 5V and then some more in the SMPSU module) - and slightly dissimilar clipping diodes to give slightly asymmetrical clipping.
The two advantages of the 30V supply are that you can get a very big output voltage swing if you want, and you're unlikely to get the op-amps themselves to clip (which usually sounds really nasty). The disadvantages are high battery consumption, increased complexity and component cost, and the risk of introducing the high frequency switching artefacts from the SMPSU on to the output - these may be ultrasonic, but may well play havoc with subsequent BBD-based or digital effects with high frequency clocks!
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"
- Dingleberry
- Breadboard Brother
I think the diode is 1N4249 or similar rectifier. I have got a bunch of similar looking diodes. Some of them has 1N4249 stamped on them and some without any markings. 1N4249 is basically a 1N4007 substitute.
-T
-T
Simplify before you amplify.
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
In fact the pedal draws approx. 90mA...mictester wrote:bipolar supply rail (derived in a somewhat inefficient way - there's a lot of battery energy wasted in the drop to 5V and then some more in the SMPSU module)
- gilmour_pugliese
- Resistor Ronker
There's a cheaper way to obtain a +/-15V from a single 9V supply? Maybe using LT1044 or LT1054?Olof wrote:This is a +/-15V circuit. 9V is dropped to 5V on the SUB PCB by a TA78L005 3-pin regulator and then stepped up to +/-15V with a muRata NMA0515SC DC-converter.
- mmolteratx
- Degoop Doctor
I had one for a while and ya, there are some odd design choices for sure but it sounds pretty good and I never had issues with any of my BBD or digital gear after it (and I run a lotmictester wrote:So....
It's a Tubescreamer with op-amp input and output buffers (instead of transistors), mechanical switching, a bipolar supply rail (derived in a somewhat inefficient way - there's a lot of battery energy wasted in the drop to 5V and then some more in the SMPSU module) - and slightly dissimilar clipping diodes to give slightly asymmetrical clipping.
The two advantages of the 30V supply are that you can get a very big output voltage swing if you want, and you're unlikely to get the op-amps themselves to clip (which usually sounds really nasty). The disadvantages are high battery consumption, increased complexity and component cost, and the risk of introducing the high frequency switching artefacts from the SMPSU on to the output - these may be ultrasonic, but may well play havoc with subsequent BBD-based or digital effects with high frequency clocks!
Actually there is!gilmour_pugliese wrote:There's a cheaper way to obtain a +/-15V from a single 9V supply? Maybe using LT1044 or LT1054?Olof wrote:This is a +/-15V circuit. 9V is dropped to 5V on the SUB PCB by a TA78L005 3-pin regulator and then stepped up to +/-15V with a muRata NMA0515SC DC-converter.
Check the data sheet - there is a schematic for a +18/-18 (or 9, which you could make into 18 at a cost of a bit more ripple) IIRC
- jfk1063
- Breadboard Brother
Information
Cool! Did anyone made this and verify it? Looks like a great pedal.
Thanks! John
Thanks! John
- jfk1063
- Breadboard Brother
Information
- roseblood11
- Tube Twister
May I suggest this?
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16890&hilit=rose+screamer
A very similar approach as the Stampede OD, but much more tonal possibilities with just a few more parts.
I'm working on a new version at the moment (see attachment), it will have a few changes:
-Jfets oder Mosfets for soft clipping
-different tone control (J. Ormans "AMZ tone 4" instead of standard TS)
-three position bass switch
-more pre gain for the "no diodes, just opamp clipping" mode (switchable extra resistor (R14) in the feedback loop of the first opamp - try it, 100k is just a guess)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16890&hilit=rose+screamer
A very similar approach as the Stampede OD, but much more tonal possibilities with just a few more parts.
I'm working on a new version at the moment (see attachment), it will have a few changes:
-Jfets oder Mosfets for soft clipping
-different tone control (J. Ormans "AMZ tone 4" instead of standard TS)
-three position bass switch
-more pre gain for the "no diodes, just opamp clipping" mode (switchable extra resistor (R14) in the feedback loop of the first opamp - try it, 100k is just a guess)
- jfk1063
- Breadboard Brother
Information
Wow, looks nice! I will have a look.roseblood11 wrote:May I suggest this?
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16890&hilit=rose+screamer
A very similar approach as the Stampede OD, but much more tonal possibilities with just a few more parts.
I'm working on a new version at the moment (see attachment), it will have a few changes:
-Jfets oder Mosfets for soft clipping
-different tone control (J. Ormans "AMZ tone 4" instead of standard TS)
-three position bass switch
-more pre gain for the "no diodes, just opamp clipping" mode (switchable extra resistor (R14) in the feedback loop of the first opamp - try it, 100k is just a guess)
So far I did:
- gain pot to 500K
- inputcap to 50nf
- clipping diodes: pair of 1n4148's and a 1n4007
- opamps to tl072
I still want to look at the tonecontrol. I now have a 5K pot and this works better, but I'm gonna try a 20K W taper to maybe get a better evenly sweep. I will also check AMZ tone 4 control.
Thanks!
Do you have some sound clips?jfk1063 wrote:It works and is a pretty great pedal!![]()
It took some time to make the board without making a pcb, but it worked out fine. I still have to experiment with the clipping diodes and maybe potvalues.
Thanks guys!
Can someone help with the pads for the pots on the PCB transfer above. Im a bit lost.
- Intripped
- Cap Cooler
connections for drive pot:
pad for pin2 (and pin3) comes from R13 in the layout, you see it at the bottom, close to the output pad
pad for pin1 is just above C23
tone pot connections are easy to find
connections for level pot: they are marked with VR2 and VR3 in the layout - connect them to pin2 and to pin3 respectively
pin1 has to be connected to ground, there isn't a pad for this on the PCB - you could run a wire from pin1 to the ground of the output jack, for example
pad for pin2 (and pin3) comes from R13 in the layout, you see it at the bottom, close to the output pad
pad for pin1 is just above C23
tone pot connections are easy to find
connections for level pot: they are marked with VR2 and VR3 in the layout - connect them to pin2 and to pin3 respectively
pin1 has to be connected to ground, there isn't a pad for this on the PCB - you could run a wire from pin1 to the ground of the output jack, for example
- jfk1063
- Breadboard Brother
Information
Hi,distortion_gfx1 wrote:Do you have some sound clips?jfk1063 wrote:It works and is a pretty great pedal!![]()
It took some time to make the board without making a pcb, but it worked out fine. I still have to experiment with the clipping diodes and maybe potvalues.
Thanks guys!
I used it at my cd-releaseparty. Check out my latest vids at: https://www.youtube.com/user/JohnFKlaver for the sound.
But a few months ago I changed it with a Madbean Kingslayer and a Centaur (all DIY). This SOV sounds great but the tonecontrol needs work to be evenly and the bass is a bit muddy. Maybe I will work on it later.
Thanks so much. Makes sense now.Intripped wrote:connections for drive pot:
pad for pin2 (and pin3) comes from R13 in the layout, you see it at the bottom, close to the output pad
pad for pin1 is just above C23
tone pot connections are easy to find
connections for level pot: they are marked with VR2 and VR3 in the layout - connect them to pin2 and to pin3 respectively
pin1 has to be connected to ground, there isn't a pad for this on the PCB - you could run a wire from pin1 to the ground of the output jack, for example