Line6 M9 Gutshots

All about modern commercial stompbox circuits from Electro Harmonix over MXR, Boss and Ibanez into the nineties.
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vandermann
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Post by vandermann »

Guys,

below some line6 M9 gutshots. I need to opened it to replace a bad LCD and took some pictures.
The M9 schematic is attached as well.
Maybe it help somebody.

Cheers,

Vanderson
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line-6_m9_sch.pdf
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drbob1
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Post by drbob1 »

Wow, SMT and VLSI sure keeps the parts count down, doesn't it!

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vandermann
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Post by vandermann »

Yes, but it's painfully to do any kind of maintenance.

Cheers,

Vanderson

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Ice-9
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Post by Ice-9 »

Nice, there is a jtag connection there, could be useful
It's fairly straight forward, if you want to start it , press start. You can work out the rest of the controls for yourself !

No silicon heaven ? preposterous ! Where would all the calculators go ?

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Sweetalk
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Post by Sweetalk »

Ice-9 wrote:Nice, there is a jtag connection there, could be useful
Yeah, but seems to be just for the LPC2220 that manages the controls and LCD. Although is very interesting, let's hook it up to the LPCXpresso!! :mrgreen:

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cobrinha
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Post by cobrinha »

Hi,
since some of my switches got out of control over the years i decided to replace them with solid spdt switches.
everything fits into the enclosure and the tap and fx3unit switches work fine but the upper switch of the fx1 unit
doesnt work and the lower fx1 switch is only turning off the lower fx2unit and nothing else.
its my first try to mod this thing so..
can someone draw me some kind of diagram how to solder the switches with two connetors to the footswitch pcb with four connectors ?

thanks

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cobrinha
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Post by cobrinha »

cobrinha wrote:Hi,
since some of my switches got out of control over the years i decided to replace them with solid spdt switches.
everything fits into the enclosure and the tap and fx3unit switches work fine but the upper switch of the fx1 unit
doesnt work and the lower fx1 switch is only turning off the lower fx2unit and nothing else.
its my first try to mod this thing so..
can someone draw me some kind of diagram how to solder the switches with two connetors to the footswitch pcb with four connectors ?

thanks
oh iam sorry i just opened the enclosure and i saw that i put the lower fx1 and fx2 switches in the wrong position
so the lower fx1 is the lower fx2 switch...

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gungr
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Post by gungr »

vandermann wrote:Guys,

below some line6 M9 gutshots. I need to opened it to replace a bad LCD and took some pictures.
The M9 schematic is attached as well.
Maybe it help somebody.

Cheers,

Vanderson
P1020280_large.JPG
P1020281_large.JPG
P1020282_large.JPG
P1020283_large.JPG
P1020284_large.JPG
P1020285_large.JPG
P1020286_large.JPG
P1020287_large.JPG
P1020288_large.JPG

Just wanted to say thank you for the Line 6 M9 schematics, they indeed were very helpful!
Greg

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Pumpensmear
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Post by Pumpensmear »

I fried my m9 using a 110v supply in Australia.

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Ellerbrock Effects
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Post by Ellerbrock Effects »

Thanks for posting!
Is this schematic comlete? I've been looking for a while and can't find the potentiometers anywhere (R1-R5). It seems like the U. I. PCB section is missing. :-( You wouldn't happen to have that. would you?

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Gastonezeiza
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Post by Gastonezeiza »

Hello! I'm new in the forum. I'm from Argentina so I'm sorry if my english Is not very good.

the reason I write is that I bought the switches to change them, only the internal buttons that are soldered to the PCB because the previous ones hardly worked anymore. A couple of times I added a shim to the buttons or the piece that clicks along with the spring and for a while it worked but the shim always ended up coming out. So I bought some new switches and changed them. I'm not an expert in the diy world, far from it, so I always make a mistake when I want to do somethingbto the pedals. In this case I was careless, and pulling out one of the top switches, cut the track and now the entire top row doesn't work. The click is heard but the effect is not activated on any of the 3 switches. The leds are on but only in standby mode, not brighter like when it is activated. I think it must be because the track was cut but the truth is that if it's not that I don't know how to know either. Anyway, the question is what should I do? if that track can be repaired, what would be the best way? The bottom row works perfectly and the truth is that with 3 effects and 3 scenes it is more than enough but if it is possible to repair it and leave it 100% functional it would be much better, since now I don't have access to the tuner or the setup. Thank you for any help you can give me. greetings

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Ben N
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Post by Ben N »

vandermann wrote: 22 Mar 2012, 02:27 Yes, but it's painfully to do any kind of maintenance.

Cheers,

Vanderson
This is a real argument in favor of old school construction, IMHO. An SMD board that goes bad is far less likely to be repaired, and therefore more likely to just get chucked into a landfill.

Not that I see any way around it.

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AdrianM
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Post by AdrianM »

Sweetalk wrote: 27 Mar 2012, 13:15
Ice-9 wrote:Nice, there is a jtag connection there, could be useful
Yeah, but seems to be just for the LPC2220 that manages the controls and LCD. Although is very interesting, let's hook it up to the LPCXpresso!! :mrgreen:
Hey mate I’ve noticed that you’ve mentioned this controller of LCD which I started having problems with.
So I was repairing my unit as it didn’t pass any wet audio and replaced few things on it like 12v regulators and audio codec without any changes.
So I hooked all up but after assembling the unit display and switches don’t seem to be doing much.
There is random lines on the screen and it changes colour but buttons don’t seem to light up and tap tempo was staying lit all the time.
I measured 5V (U15) voltage regulator and something is pulling it down to about 2.54v. I have removed and checked the regulator and it outputs 5.08V fine.
Checked two small caps(C58,C198,C199) and transistor(D24) and they are working.
What’s worrying is that there is only 2V DC feed voltage to U15 and normal voltage of +13v to U20.
I think I described it as good as possible one more thing I’ve done was software update but I don’t think this matters.
Any ideas for the not working display and no WET sound(relay??)?

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AdrianM
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Post by AdrianM »

Ok so after further investigation I’ve noticed that U15 “input leg” isn’t connected to + terminal of C163 which is on the same “feed rail”. (Green circles)
I used continuity mode.
I also have spare unit on which there is continuity as it should be.

I replaced u20 as it was burned and there’s 5VA back. I don’t know what to look for now.
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