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Tonezone wrote:I have started....I know that ceramic resistor is much too big, I will be removing for a smaller 1.5K 1/ 2watt resistor. It is a start!

I would actually keep that ceramic 5Watt resistor in it's place,since it will not get too hot....

Geez,now I am itching to get stuck into building one using PCBs....


Any news on the PCBs Bajaman?....

Any news on the PCBs Bajaman?

unexpected delay - my apologies - should be back in stock with BRTO PCBs this coming week - will get backorders posted out immediately they arrive.
cheers
bajaman

bajaman wrote:

Any news on the PCBs Bajaman?

unexpected delay - my apologies - should be back in stock with BRTO PCBs this coming week - will get backorders posted out immediately they arrive.
cheers
bajaman

That's okay mate,chalk that up to Murphy's Law....the delay,that is....

DrNomis wrote:I would actually keep that ceramic 5Watt resistor in it's place,since it will not get too hot....

If the vertical pot holding pcb will sneak in the correct place I may just leave the ceramic 5 watt resistor! Good Call!!!

I may just leave the ceramic 5 watt resistor!

totally unnecessary - a 1/2 watt resistor is more than adequate here!!!
cheers
bajaman

Thank bajaman...I will change out the large "salt block" resistor! Another piece to the puzzle! I will fold down the soldered pots when all the parts are in place!

first time round I was a dummy and soldered the TL082 in backwards....had to de-solder and turn it around...causing burnt looking board, yikes!

Tonezone wrote:first time round I was a dummy and soldered the TL082 in backwards....had to de-solder and turn it around...causing burnt looking board, yikes!

That's something that can happen pretty easily,may I recommend buying a couple of rolls of de-soldering braid,it is a special,chemically treated,type of fine wire braiding that sucks up solder through capillary action,it helps to remove solder from solder joints,I use it all the time...

Thanks for the suggestion of the de-soldering braid...and I am going to be more careful also!

I have all the parts soldered to the board with the exception of the 33ohm 2watt resistor and the 1.5K 2 watt resistor....waiting on the last parts to arrive!

you should "poke" the potentiometers through the holes in the solder side of the PCB - DO NOT BEND THE PINS - it will not fit in the case and you will lift the tracks off the PCB etc.
My PCBs may need the holes enlarged slightly to enable the pot pins to be inserted - I usually crimp the pot pins carefully with a pair of pliers - this makes them easy to insert tightly in the holes.

the solder braid suggestion is a good one , however, I have found some types better at desoldering than others. I use Soderwick by Chemtronics

cheers
bajaman

If you are not using PCB mounting pots, you will have to cut the solder tag ends off the legs - ALSO - do not forget to snap the locating lugs off the pot shaft collars

bajaman wrote:you should "poke" the potentiometers through the holes in the solder side of the PCB - DO NOT BEND THE PINS - it will not fit in the case and you will lift the tracks off the PCB etc.
My PCBs may need the holes enlarged slightly to enable the pot pins to be inserted - I usually crimp the pot pins carefully with a pair of pliers - this makes them easy to insert tightly in the holes.

the solder braid suggestion is a good one , however, I have found some types better at desoldering than others. I use Soderwick by Chemtronics

cheers
bajaman

The best working solderwick I've ever used so far is made by a company called Goot,I usually buy it in 1m X 3mm rolls,I tend to use it all the time,especially for preparing stripboard,works for me...

Hi. I signed up to this forum almost a year ago and just getting around to putting up my first post. I been eyeing this project for a long time and I think Im ready to build this beast but I hate to sound like a broken record but Im not sure about the power supply. I know its a 16vAC 1.5A but I want to make sure I get the right one. I posted links below to see if Im even looking the right ones.

http://www.elkproducts.com/_webapp_2981 ... rong_and_t
http://www.powerstream.com/surplus.htm
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... MER/1.html
http://www.radioparts.com.au/ProdView.a ... WER+SUPPLY

Will any of these do. Thanks for the help.
Paul

the last link listed above is very similar to the one I use!
cheers
bajaman

bajaman wrote:the last link listed above is very similar to the one I use!
cheers
bajaman

Thanks! I thought that would work just fine but I just realized That the plug wont work with a U.S. outlet. I wonder if they make plug adapters for it.

Ok. After reading some more. I notice some were using 18VAC 1amp power supplys. I assume that will work but will I have to change any components? The two big 470uf caps are rated 35V and the two smaller 470uf are 16V. The 22uf are 25V. Thanks
Paul

18vAC @1A should work fine - possibly need to change the 33 ohm 5 watt resistor (try 39 ohms for 18v supply).
All other caps etc okay.
cheers
bajaman

Finally had the chance to finish this off after receiving the board some time ago - I A/B'd it against my Chandler Tube Driver rack and it's got more gain and presence (not sure how much the new tube alters the sound). Here's a pic - have a guess which pedal I modelled the artwork on...