BAJA Real Tube Drive pedal project

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 05 Aug 2016, 01:11

Do they come pre-cut?

Yes

cheers
Steve

Ang3lus · Post by **Ang3lus** » 14 Sep 2016, 21:45

I'm sorry for double posting, but I think more people are watching this thread:

i started this thread here:

https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic ... 73&t=27877

now after some further testing i'm getting

i'm getting -15.5v at the output of the 7815 regulator, the voltage should be positive no ?

do you guys think the regulator is bad ?

also getting +15v at the output of the 7915

the 7815 is a 7815cv by ST
the 7915 is a 7915cv by ST

i'm using 1n4004 diodes in the supply and not 1n4007

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 15 Sep 2016, 10:56

are you sure you have not got your meter probe leads connected the wrong way round ?

- a 7815 is a +15v regulator and the 7915 is a -15v regulator - the IN4004 diodes should be fine

Ang3lus · Post by **Ang3lus** » 15 Sep 2016, 22:09

replaced the regulators, now getting -15v on the 79 and +12 on the 78 (using 7812, what i had on hand)

the IC voltages after replacing are

1:10.80v
2:10.84v
3: 10.94v
4: 10.91v
5: 10.83v
6:10.31v
7:10.87v
8:12.01v

these voltages are kinda screwy aren't they ?

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 16 Sep 2016, 07:56

these voltages are kinda screwy aren't they ?

yes pin 4 should have -15v on it

Ang3lus · Post by **Ang3lus** » 20 Sep 2016, 14:45

fixed it.

pedal is fully working, problem was the jumpers, one of them lost contact.

all good now, thanks bajaman !

lolablues · Post by **lolablues** » 21 Oct 2016, 09:42

bajaman wrote:
i.png
j.png
latest OSH park boards available now

How can i get one of this?

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 21 Oct 2016, 10:32

pm me

erzu · Post by **erzu** » 23 Feb 2017, 19:16

Hi Steve, a just wanted to thank you (and everyone involved), to me Baja RTO is the greatest, I just recently came to appreciate it. This pedal inspired not only my playing, with is not so good

but in something even more. Kind of my emotions, it's a bit frightening and also amazing at the same time.

The overdriven tone (perfectly balanced with clean) brakes up always where you want it (just use volume knob) and can get you wherever you like from beautiful sparkly crunch to ffffff other reality

To my taste lover outputs pickups are the way to go with this one, and some decent guitar wiring that makes volume and tone knobs really usable (50's wiring for example) and every setting you dial in sounds great

Some sounds in poor quality

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7AhOW ... XVDRjB3T0k

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7AhOW ... VhPOHJGU28

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7AhO ... URmZ0h2U2M

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 23 Feb 2017, 21:05

Hi Erzu
Thanks for the nice comments - really happy that you are enjoying using it and understand how to get the best sounds and emotion from it

Although to many it may just look like a BK Butler Tube Driver, I can assure you that it is a very different sounding piece of equipment thanks to the very simple one knob high frequency cutting tone filter after the tube section. I like to start with all the controls around midway and increase the tone control slightly for humbucking pickups or decrease for single coils. I usually switch between bypass and on until the overall tone sounds similar, then leave the pedal on and adjust the crunch sweet spot with the guitar volume control.
cheers
Steve

guigos · Post by **guigos** » 11 Sep 2017, 20:12

Hi everyone!

I'm about to built this project and im wondering..... excluding the 2W resistor, can i use 1/4W dissipation resistors? I'll be using 16VAC 1.5A Power Supply!

Thank you guys!

Post by **modman** » 06 Oct 2017, 20:54

I updated the first post with the pictures

stojanos · Post by **stojanos** » 08 Feb 2018, 09:08

Hi Steve, is your power supply a simple transformer transforming the standard house volage from 220VAC to 16VAC (non regulated obviously - it is only transformer). I have one so I am looking to use it simple connecting cables and printing 3d case for it instead of buying one. They are not that cheap here in UK. Reading your comments it looks like I can use 18V one ensuring that capacitors are at least 35V. Correct?
Cheer, Srdjan

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 08 Feb 2018, 10:28

Hi Steve, is your power supply a simple transformer transforming the standard house volage from 220VAC to 16VAC (non regulated obviously - it is only transformer). I have one so I am looking to use it simple connecting cables and printing 3d case for it instead of buying one. They are not that cheap here in UK. Reading your comments it looks like I can use 18V one ensuring that capacitors are at least 35V. Correct?
Cheer, Srdjan

yes to both questions - but do try to use the 16vAC supply if possible - you may have to increase the large dropper resistor that feeds the tube heaters if you use a higher voltage transformer

robinbowes · Post by **robinbowes** » 08 Feb 2018, 10:52

stojanos wrote:Hi Steve, is your power supply a simple transformer transforming the standard house volage from 220VAC to 16VAC (non regulated obviously - it is only transformer). I have one so I am looking to use it simple connecting cables and printing 3d case for it instead of buying one. They are not that cheap here in UK. Reading your comments it looks like I can use 18V one ensuring that capacitors are at least 35V. Correct?
Cheer, Srdjan

Srdjan,

I picked up one of these:

Sadly, I can't remember/find where I bought it from. I'll let you know if I find any trace.

R.

stojanos · Post by **stojanos** » 21 Feb 2018, 20:46

Thanks guys for response regarding power supply. I am ready to start.

stojanos · Post by **stojanos** » 21 Feb 2018, 22:27

bottom PCB components assembled

stojanos · Post by **stojanos** » 22 Feb 2018, 00:52

All other PCB components aslo assembled. Notice that left 470uF capacitors are now smaller - originally I have soldered 35V. They were too big to sit bellow potentiometers. I have replaced them with 16V. New PCB that I received from Steve is showing that they need to be 25V while original design was showing 16V. I hope that 16V is ok.

stojanos · Post by **stojanos** » 22 Feb 2018, 13:30

Using pinheaders for joining PCBs together work well. Most of time I used simple straight pinheader twisted to 90 degrees. For two pins that are further away from the PCB edge I used angled pinheader so that leg is long enough. In boht cases I removed black plastic from pinheaders. I also used blue tag to keep pinheader in place while soldering.

stojanos · Post by **stojanos** » 22 Feb 2018, 14:00

All PCBs assembled together and ready for testing. Shame that power adapter did not arrive yet

At the moment with probably mediocre Behringer 12AX7.

I am sharing Mouser shopping basket if anyone else want to order the same parts. The list have every part doubled (so you can build two if you want

). The list is missing few parts because Mouser is not selling them or I already had them: valve socket, 1590BB case, power connector and power supply. 470mF 25V are replaced with 16V as per original info - this could be fixed but have in mind tat these capacitors must be short so that potentiometers can be above them. Power led is possible too small and more robust should be ordered.
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProjectManager ... d39e36b843
Total cost is close to 50 pounds. Have in mind that buying just one set you will not save much because you will be bellow free shipping threshold.

Finally buy PCBs from Baja - no point of making them for the cost that he is selling and shipping. I got mine in less than a week even though I am in UK and he is in NZ.

BAJA Real Tube Drive pedal project [documentation]