How Do You Put Graphics/Labels onto a Black Box ?

[Lucifer]

Hi Guys [doffs hat in respect],

Now that I've got Inkscape (fabulous program - thanks for the tip) I've been busily designing neat labels and graphics for my recent builds.

I'm using Lazertran Inkjet Decal paper (far cheaper than the expensive single sheets from Banzai).

For my UltraKlon (qv), with its bright orange box, there has been no problem - black lettering, etc stands out a treat.

But my Dual Klon (qv) and Super-Hoochie-Zen-o-Klon (qv) are both in matt black boxes - and they're giving me problems. When I print black text on a light background, the light background turns transparent, showing the black underneath. Black text on black background, not good. Light coloured text also disappears against the dark background.

I'm stumped - any ideas ? How does everyone else produce neat labelling on dark enclosures ? Or maybe they don't. Any helpful suggestions GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Lucifer

[Nucleus]

Well, one way to do it is to use non-transparent white decal paper, but it requires quite precise cutting skills, so it's only useful for large and simple things like logos etc.
Other thing you can consider is reverse etching the labels, painting the enclosure and sanding off the protruding bits. Rather tricky, and is a royal pain if you botch it.
Also - hand painting, stencil painting?

[Lucifer]

Thanks, Nucleus, for your suggestions.

I originally used a paint pen - gloss black - on a matt black box which, in the right light looked cool, although not as neat as I'd hoped (you can see this on my photos of the Super-Hoochie-Zen-o-Klon).

I've only just got hold of Inkscape - and made some great labels - so my problem stems from wanting to do something better after having already built and wired the box (and it's too cumbersome - as you can see from the S-H-Z-o-K gutshots - to dismantle just for retro-labelling).

I tried hand painting (white) approximately where each part of the decal would go. As a first attempt, it was crap, but I may be able to improve with practice. I couldn't use masking tape as the pots and switches were in the way.

In future, I'll make sure that I label up my box before assembly - probably by spraying the top surface in a lighter colour so that the transparent decals will show clearly.

Thanks again,

Lucifer

[fuzzfiend]

I use clear Avery 8665 Full Sheet Labels for my graphics and make them big enough to perfectly cover the entire top of the box. Since the white areas of my graphics print out clear on the inkjet, I use white primer on the box. That way the clear areas of the label will will show the primer and look white as intended. If I want the sides and back of the box darker, I just set the box face down on a flat surface and spray the sides dark before applying the label. I've had good results using this method (see image)...

FF

[Lucifer]

Thanks for that, Fuzzfiend.

I love the look of your Vox in a Box.

And I bet it sounds as good as it looks.

[bato001]

I use the iron on t-shirt transfers for dark shirts. They do take a little practice. You need low heat and even pressure when you iron them on. The first 3 or 4 I did I had to sand off and redo. I also noticed that the more expensive Avery transfers work better than the cheaper WalMart or Target brands. To finish it off I give the box 5 or 6 coats of semi gloss clear coat to protect it.

I do not know if this will work for you on this project, but it is something to keep in mind.

and BTW fuzzfiend, real sweet work. I like your method and will keep it in my little bag of tricks for finishing enclosures.

[Duckman]

I use inkjet printed white stickers for all boxes, coloured or non coloured. After that, several hands of transparent matte spray (only on top, for coloured boxes) Cheap & simple.

[Lucifer]

Thanks to all you guys who have responded.

I've now got several useful approaches to try.

[fuzzfiend]

Lucifer, something else occurred to me. A while ago I modified a Boss Metal Zone with a couple of micro switches to kill the distortion (yes, I bought a distortion pedal and then eliminated the distortion from it ). I wanted a quick, cheap and dirty way to label the switches without having to repaint the entire box. I matched the text and background colors and printed it out on regular paper. Then trimmed the paper so it was narrower than the with of the Scotch satin tape I used to hold it on the pedal. It's not the most durable method, but as this pedal doesn't get banged around much, it seems to be doing OK (see pic...).

Also bato001 and Duckman, your work looks great! I forgot to mention the clear satin enamel I used on the Vox in a Box (a couple of light coats on the label before trimming it and then 2 thick coats after applying it to the box and cutting out the holes). Good to know that the clear coat doesn't react negatively with your materials either. The only downside I see to any of our methods is that you risk ruining the work if you want to bake on the clear finish. Guess we'll just have more time to practice guitar while waiting for our boxes to dry

FF

[Lucifer]

Fuzzfiend,

You are a true label Meister.