freestompboxes.org

vintagecharlie wrote:Yes, really! I'm still looking for the procedure how to do it.

You are not the only one

Over 34000 views of this tread, and only 9 guys cared to thank me for many hours of my work. Not that I care, I don't give a crap really, but it would be nice to know someone appreciate my afford. I could (as you said) keep these files private and gain profit on ebay selling UV boards.

Sophisticated? I prefer to hit the button in place of trashing the tread with unessential comments like we do right now

I know it sounds cheesy, but the work you have done with the replica files in my book would deserve you a monument. Big kudos to you, sinner.

sinner wrote:Over 34000 views of this tread, and only 9 guys cared to thank me for many hours of my work.

15 now! It's getting outta control!

phibes wrote:

sinner wrote:Over 34000 views of this tread, and only 9 guys cared to thank me for many hours of my work.

15 now! It's getting outta control!

It's all from my subaccounts, Timm

As said, fukit. There's more guys who deserves it more than me - Baja, Dirk, Mictester and many more whom did much more for this forum and the community. Just saying - instead of say thanks all over - hit that fucking thanks button. Otherwise we will be flooded with nonsense comments and valuable answers like the one about step down transformer (which I'm sure it was answered at least twice in this tread), will gone unnoticeable

sinner wrote:

phibes wrote:

sinner wrote:Over 34000 views of this tread, and only 9 guys cared to thank me for many hours of my work.

15 now! It's getting outta control!

It's all from my subaccounts, Timm

As said, fukit. There's more guys who deserves it more than me - Baja, Dirk, Mictester and many more whom did much more for this forum and the community. Just saying - instead of say thanks all over - hit that fucking thanks button. Otherwise we will be flooded with nonsense comments and valuable answers like the one about step down transformer (which I'm sure it was answered at least twice in this tread), will gone unnoticeable

I'm agree

Sinner give me a break, i looked and searched all over this thread to find an answer about the stepdown transformer and wasnt able to find it, it is a long thread, sometimes things get repeated.
But again, thanks to you all and especially you.
Thanking is not nonsense.

I posted AC voltages going into the board for the two traces I did earlier in the thread (early model and late model). I'm reading 15.8VAC (early model) and 17.0VAC (late model) going into each board -- my local power company is supplying me with 122VAC to my wall outlets as measured. So, if you want to wire up your replica like an original, you'll need to source out a 28VCT or 30VCT (center tap) single primary/dual secondary transformer -- send one secondary lead to the board and the other to the indicator lamp as Sinner's diagram shows. Connect the center tap to the ground plane on the board and also to the indicator lamp. That should send 1/2 the transformer voltage to the board and 1/2 to the pilot lamp. Or source out a 14-16VAC transformer with a single secondary. Originals looked to be rated at about 8-10VA.

My early vibe reads 15.85VAC going to the board but only 6VAC going to the bulb -- good luck finding a transformer on that one. The early model transformer is actually marked "14V" right on the tape . . . but that was likely rated at the more common 110V power supply back in 1969. The later model sends 17VAC to the board and to the indicator lamp (18V bulb). If you're needing a 220V, 50hz primary then you'll need to source out a 28VCT or 30VCT transformer somewhere (dual secondary). Again . . . my outlets at the house are putting out 122 volts so results will vary. Maybe check out a Hammond 186C28 -- I believe that can run at 230V primary.

I think there's a real sweet spot with voltages on these things -- too much is not necessarily a good thing. I know a lot of guys say the LDR and bulb are the heart and soul of a U-V . . . but I'm finding that correct voltages to certain points is critical for 'that sound'. I'm talking about that under water liquid sound, not the crappy WOW-WOW-WOW that a lot of DIY pedals sound like. My early model sounds like heaven, I ain't shittin' ya. I know I said earlier that I liked the later model and the later one does produce a bit stronger throb . . . but after really playing with both for awhile, the early model sounds like playing under water. It will make you cry.

Thanks Fastrocker. That was thorough.

Fastocker, thanks for your input!
so, basing on your experience, what should the optimal DC voltage be for the LFO circuit, and the audio circuit?
...and what bulb/LDRs are you using on your units?

I posted the DC voltage to the lamp for both my early and late units earlier in the thread -- they're marked right near the lamp on the sketches.

I've built a dozen or so vibes of different variations (Neovibe, Forum-Vibe, etc.) and have used various LDRs and bulbs with good results. I thought the Silonex NSL-5540 sounded great. (Hint: NSL-5542 . . . same specs, no hermetically sealed case, MUCH cheaper). I'd like to try some of the Clairex CL7P5HL that DaveAir raved about but I can't find them for sale anywhere, LOL. Anyone know where to buy them?

Fastocker wrote:I'd like to try some of the Clairex CL7P5HL that DaveAir raved about but I can't find them for sale anywhere, LOL. Anyone know where to buy them?

Can be challenging, it's out of production and now obsolete

NSL-5540 have similar L/D resistance, and still widely available

well, not so absolute after all - over 5000 pcs in stock here http://www.icsupply.com/itemdetail.asp? ... 303B1F0%7D

sinner wrote:well, not so absolute after all - over 5000 pcs in stock here http://www.icsupply.com/itemdetail.asp? ... 303B1F0%7D

Hey Sinner,
How R U?

I can sell to you a quartet of CL5P7HL if you like...
But first, if time permits to me record and upload a video ejample.

Regards,

DAVE

I'm still alive, which is good

PMd

Goog evening to all comunity

I post four sound test of two of my UVs.
UV1 = is with some mods on the Lamp Driver thats allows more current to the lamp.
UV2 = the same that 1 without mod.

Both UVs have CL5P7HL photocells inside.
I able to hear your opinions... Mine is that n°2 is more accurate to original but n°1 has more depth modulation but some wha wha undesirable sound.

Regards,
DAVE.-

All univibes sound slightly different, but to my ears your vibe with the mods comes much closer to the vibe sound i have in my head - it gets that realy thick, under-watery modulation that melts together with the dry signal. I preferred this much more to the unmodded version, which sounded ok to me, but way too weak to get the tones i personally am after (holy grail of which is Hendrix@Fillmore East on 31.12.69).

vintagecharlie wrote:All univibes sound slightly different, but to my ears your vibe with the mods comes much closer to the vibe sound i have in my head - it gets that realy thick, under-watery modulation that melts together with the dry signal. I preferred this much more to the unmodded version, which sounded ok to me, but way too weak to get the tones i personally am after (holy grail of which is Hendrix@Fillmore East on 31.12.69).

About Hendrix@Fillmore East on 31.12.69 jejejejeje (lol) yes that is sound reference...

I forgot to say that my sound samples are recorded with a Gibson Les Paul guitar (with electronics moded / vintage caps may be same type used by E. Clapton in Bluesbreakers album...)

in blind test, UV2 wins IMO

BTW,

I like your tone

What amp was that?