freestompboxes.org

Thanx!
VOX AC30C2 (Chinese Crap)
So, for you UV2 wins? What things won't likes you about UV1?

DAVE.-

DaveAir79 wrote:Thanx!
VOX AC30C2 (Chinese Crap)

It doesn't sound like crap

DaveAir79 wrote: So, for you UV2 wins? What things won't likes you about UV1?

DAVE.-

UV2 have more presence, and sound's like... Univibe. UV1 goes like a mellow chorus

But... may be 'cuz UV1 sounds with at low volume or something like that? The samples was recorded by an ambient microphone so maybe the the autosettings levels changes between UV1 and UV2...
I don't know...
I like how it's sounds UV2 too... is more liquid... but UV1 have more depth... and it seems to be like some samples I see on youtube of a Japanese Replica...
But again, I don't know... I never heard a real original UV.

I apreciate very much all your coments and critics...

Regards,
DAVE
(from Argentina, South America)

Alright, it took awhile . . . but I finally got this thing finished! And it sounds like liquid heaven -- virtually indistinguishable from my late model Uni-Vibe. Still finishing the foot controller but should have that done shortly. I've enjoyed this project so much that I've already started on a second one -- that one will be modeled after my early model U-V.







Excuse the messy work bench:

Fastocker wrote:Alright, it took awhile . . . but I finally got this thing finished! And it sounds like liquid heaven -- virtually indistinguishable from my late model Uni-Vibe. Still finishing the foot controller but should have that done shortly. I've enjoyed this project so much that I've already started on a second one -- that one will be modeled after my early model U-V.

It's so great and identical with original one, I wish I could make an enclosure like that.

Thanks for sharing the images.

Excuse my french, but - fuck me!!!

Fastocker wrote:Alright, it took awhile . . . but I finally got this thing finished! And it sounds like liquid heaven -- virtually indistinguishable from my late model Uni-Vibe. Still finishing the foot controller but should have that done shortly. I've enjoyed this project so much that I've already started on a second one -- that one will be modeled after my early model U-V.

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Excuse the messy work bench:

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A few more words about the cells
Silonex NSL 06s53 showed nоt a bad result
But in a smaller package than NSL 5540 (ceteris paribus)

Fastocker wrote:Alright, it took awhile . . . but I finally got this thing finished! And it sounds like liquid heaven -- virtually indistinguishable from my late model Uni-Vibe. Still finishing the foot controller but should have that done shortly. I've enjoyed this project so much that I've already started on a second one -- that one will be modeled after my early model U-V.

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Excuse the messy work bench:

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WOW!!!! EXCELENT!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!
The Best Replica I ever Seen!!!!
Awsome man!

OK, posted a quick and dirty video of my vibe build. Playing it side by side with the genuine Uni-Vibe:

Truly an amazing build Fastrocker! It sounds wonderful too, and great playing there.

I just don't know what to say. This is over the top amazing. I have done quite a few authentic builds of various stuff, but this is simply stunning - as well as in regard to the build, as well sound-wise. There is almost no identifiable difference to my ears. And there is no way telling that one of them is better or less cool - the clone sounds like what i imagined originals should sound. Thank you very much for taking the time to make and share the clip. This is very reassuring that it is possible to get there with a DIY project.

I joined just to thank you for this. Great job

Where did you get the replicated face plate?

fakcior wrote:Sorry for blasphemy, but what's the best way to add LED rate indicator? I've seen that madbean was taking voltage from R44 to ground. Some folks suggest to pul LED in series with bulb. Don't think it's a good idea.
I'm planning to use CANCEL as bypass, so it'd be good if both work together properly.
Regards

This is one way to connect LED

sorry, wrong link (and I cant edit last post )

mrkaploca wrote:sorry, wrong link (and I cant edit last post )
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Hi man, here is a simple and good way to make it.
If you check last pages you will see the UV replica I made.

But if you want the best way to extract the signal from the lamp, you must to use an Operational.

Regards,
DAVE.-

But this way LEDs intensity is dependant on overral Intensity settings, right?
Wiring it my way gives excellent response, right intensity (that can bi modified according to LED used) and does not depend on bulb intensity settings.

Intripped wrote:another thing that i've experimented is about the 2 diodes:
if you use low V-drop ones (i.e. germanium diodes), the LFO would eventually stall;
and if you pull them off the circuit the oscillating becomes more symmetrical, closer to a perfect sinusoidal (if you have the BIAS trim and the OFFSET trim fitted, you can adjust the oscillation very well)
i'm still experimenting at the moment with these diodes, because i suspect that the "liveness" of the sound of the original pedal is also due to a non-perfectly symmetrical LFO: these 2 diodes seem to extend a little the middle part of each swing - but as i said i'm still working on it.

I'm with you on this, I just replaced the original diodes with a forward voltage around .63 with a couple closer to .8. It's a completely different animal. More low end thump, and to my ears, I can back off the lamp driver which mellows out the phaseyness at the top of the curve when there's a fuzz in front.

The sm150s say .7 on the data sheets I've seen. Now it seems maybe a lot of si diodes we might think have a fv of .7 are really closer to .6 so who knows. I'm not really up on diode specs, so I don't know if it's fv effecting the lobe or something else.

Online those lines I'm looking to try 4 GE diodes.

I'm getting ofter requests for this by email since my website is no longer online, so here it is. All my UV files

To mods: can you add this files to the first post, please?

...and the transfer scaled for use with Piher PT-15 trimmer

From Small Bear:
-Bad News/Good News first: For the moment, I can't supply for the Univibe the very high-dark resistance photocells that Silonex used to make. The parts that they are currently making in China will work in a trem but not in a phaser. I have marked down my remaining stock, so you can get some very good parts at a price you would not usually see. I will do my best in coming months to secure a re-make of the Univibe-friendly photocells

My question, Where can I get some photocells for a univibe clone? I plan on making one but that is the one part I cannot seem to find here in the States... should I try those ones at Banzai Music?