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Hey guys, today I've got some pieces of the 2SC828 with the Matsushita logo, they looks like brand-new, differently from the others that I already have (that seems to be NOS).

I've tested the HFE with a multimeter, had measured about 180 for the new, and about 230 for the old stock, and got a question about my transistors:

What's the HFE of the ones that you guys used to build your Vibes?
It's better to use all the 13 transistors with about the same HFE or with all really different values?

Thanks!

hFe really doesn't make a difference in this circuit. But you can put a transistor with the highest hFe as Q1.

Thanks faktor, but disregarding the HFE, do you believe that there is some difference between the old transistors and the new ones? If the answer is no, I will buy a thousand to stock at home, LOL

Info on transistors used with rank (gain buckets) is in this tread. Once again - people don't care to read my posts

sinner wrote:Info on transistors used with rank (gain buckets) is in this tread. Once again - people don't care to read my posts

Sorry sinner, I'll look in the past pages. Thanks!

Hello. I'm will build a uni-vibe and I'm going to use a power supply, because I don't want to risk my life with a transformer. And I'm a newbie so I don't exactly know how to wire the board with a power supply so sinner would you do a layout for me with power supply instead of transformer? P.S I'm from Finland so my English might be bad.

John Kay wrote:Hello. I'm will build a uni-vibe and I'm going to use a power supply, because I don't want to risk my life with a transformer. And I'm a newbie so I don't exactly know how to wire the board with a power supply so sinner would you do a layout for me with power supply instead of transformer? P.S I'm from Finland so my English might be bad.

I'm also planning in use a power supply. Can someone help us?

Have anyone tried a LED to replace the lamp? It's hard to find that original lamp to buy around here, I've only found it in Banzai Music.
Or that kind of Xmas Lamp http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ze9bl_7bRmQ/T ... -pisca.jpg

Thanks again.

Hi, I'm new in this forum, i would like to build an early univibe clone. I've read the whole thread, fastrocker's clone is amazing.
i think i can do the pcb by myself, but if it will be a total crap i think I'll buy it, maybe from pigeon fx (i hope he'll answer, because he usually doesn't ). Is the turretboard pcb ok for both early UV and late UV?
I have An answer for fastrocker... how have you been able to do that enclosure and the black panel?
P.S. does anybody know where i can find a board of phenolic paper? If i make the pcb by myself i have to do an incision with ultraviolet lamp am i right?
Thank you
Matteo

Turretboard (mine) plans are the only true replica ones gived to the community for free and yes, they are the good ones. There was some confusion created by Rama, but tracks are correct and solid research was done before I give it to the people.

AFAIK only Brook from Pigeon Fx have paper phenolic material. I don't know if hi does boards for this as we never really talked about it after I encouraged him to make this for public, but it won't hurt if you ask him

You can alternatively send the transfer file to the fab shop of some sort, the one that accepts pdf file, order a lot with brown solder mask on trace side, use one for yourself and sell the rest. It will give you close enough look and you will make few diyers happy as well

Good luck

Thanks for the answer sinner. Have you made a replica of the UV?. I'm gonna try to make the pcb by myself, wishing in a good result...i have an answer for fastrocker... i would like to do a perfect clone like yours, could you tell me how to do it? And where did you find the frontal panel (the black one with the controls?)
Thanks
Matteo

I have a question if anyone knows where I can find an Eagle file on the schematic to the Univibe? Couldn't find it on this forum.

Henriq wrote:Hey guys, today I've got some pieces of the 2SC828 with the Matsushita logo, they looks like brand-new, differently from the others that I already have (that seems to be NOS).

I've tested the HFE with a multimeter, had measured about 180 for the new, and about 230 for the old stock, and got a question about my transistors:

What's the HFE of the ones that you guys used to build your Vibes?
It's better to use all the 13 transistors with about the same HFE or with all really different values?

Thanks!

I've used a BC549C transistor as a substitute for the 2SC828 (I'm assuming that it's the Q1 transistor) with no problems at all.....

Henriq wrote:

John Kay wrote:Hello. I'm will build a uni-vibe and I'm going to use a power supply, because I don't want to risk my life with a transformer. And I'm a newbie so I don't exactly know how to wire the board with a power supply so sinner would you do a layout for me with power supply instead of transformer? P.S I'm from Finland so my English might be bad.

I'm also planning in use a power supply. Can someone help us?

Have anyone tried a LED to replace the lamp? It's hard to find that original lamp to buy around here, I've only found it in Banzai Music.
Or that kind of Xmas Lamp http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ze9bl_7bRmQ/T ... -pisca.jpg

Thanks again.

All you have to do is hook up a dc jack with "+" going to D3 (bottom right side of board, left wire) and "-" going to GND (bottom right side of board, right wire).....use a power supply with atleast 15 volts.....I use an 18vdc supply for mine....you can use AC or DC as the board will convert it for you

Hi there. I'm new to the forum and thought I may share a little about my own univibe clone. I built mine based on the Univox schematic. It's the most difficult one I've built thus far. The only problem I still have is the light bulb and the top speed is a bit too slow. Having said that, I use this one nearly every day, and friends and relatives of mine say it sounds great. I just think it could be better. Any thoughts about increasing the strength and top speed on these? I don't want to deviate too much from the original design.

Hi! Again. You might think this is a stupid question but I don't know how to wire the power switch and status light if you don't use a tranformer. So how do you wire the power switch and status light if you use a power supply?

John Kay wrote:Hi! Again. You might think this is a stupid question but I don't know how to wire the power switch and status light if you don't use a tranformer. So how do you wire the power switch and status light if you use a power supply?

I used a LED in series with a resistor hooked between power and ground for the status light. the switch is just on the power wire.Nothing to it. Hope this helps.

Just like ljn said!.....just use an spst switch in line with the positive wire from the dc jack for the power switch....all its doing is cutting the power wire....status light is exactly as stated, positive wire to resistor to led anode, led cathode to ground....resistor size is dependent on the led brightness you desire...I typically use a 1k-3k3 with normal diffused leds.. ..you can also bypass using the power switch and status light if its not important to you and use a 3pdt true bypass setup with the led so it switches the led on and off when the circuit is switched on and off....in that case run a wire from dc jack + to resistor to led anode...led cathode to 3pdt lug 4, 3pdt lug 5 to gnd (depending on how you wire your 3pdt)... or use dpdt with millenium bypass which I think is how the mega vibe is setup.....I set mine up with 3pdt true bypass and I ran a 5th LDR for a depth/rate indicator led that switches with the bypass switch and I have a status led thats always on once the power supply is plugged in.....to do that you run another ldr under the light shield....any ldr should work for this but try and use the same type....one leg of the ldr to the lamp the other connects to a wire then run that wire to an led anode....cathode to either ground if you want it on all the time or to sw4, sw 5 to gnd if you want it to switch with the bypass switch.....status led is just like ljn said....positive to resistor to led to gnd....let me know if you need any thing else and good luck!

True bypass can be a good thing, but the original setup adds a nice brightness to the sound when the cancel switch is engaged. It may not be for everyone, but I like it.Lots of great info on this thread.

For the guys who used the Banzai kit, did you put the photocells flat or did you angle them ?