freestompboxes.org

Here are the circuit boards and enclosure coming soon
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264947391470

Plexibuilder wrote: ↑24 Dec 2020, 06:10 Here are the circuit boards and enclosure coming soon
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264947391470

Great

Does anyone have a good link for the Univibe Replica PCB Transfer files? The wayback machine has several component layout files, but the link to the transfer PCB image is broken. I found the link to the PCB transfer is broken everywhere I have looked on the internet.

Can anyone help? I would like to build a replica and don't want to buy it off of ebay.

Mike

Volk wrote: ↑07 May 2013, 16:03 My fabrication files

Hello! Have you got any files to Uni-Vibe?

mwelch55 wrote: ↑15 Jan 2021, 19:10 Does anyone have a good link for the Univibe Replica PCB Transfer files? The wayback machine has several component layout files, but the link to the transfer PCB image is broken. I found the link to the PCB transfer is broken everywhere I have looked on the internet.

Can anyone help? I would like to build a replica and don't want to buy it off of ebay.

Mike

Hi, Mike

I have saved this file from the turretboard.org.

Thank you for the PDF. I will be trying to build a Univibe based on the Layout I have and the Transfer you posted.

Can anyone tell me if Clairex CL604L photocells would work in a replica build? i have a quad of NOS sitting here that I'd happily use in my build if anyone has any insight?

marjodp wrote: ↑17 May 2013, 22:52 Here are some updates:

Hello, how are you?
do you have a pdf file with measurements?
thanks

Hello, guys! Seems like this thread is never gonna be dead =)

I've been building my Uni-Vibe clone for almost 3 years and right now I'm about to get exactly the sound I'm chasing to. I just need to make some minor tweaks. One is about the bottom speed and another one is about the depth. So, I'm building it according to the Neovibe layout (many thanks to R.G. Keen).

1. I managed to get my UV quite fast by swapping C19 and C21 from 1uF to 0.68uF and R42, R43 from 4.2k to 1.8k. But I lost my bottom speed. As far as I understand the schematic, using lower values of C19 and C21 lead to it. So, it's like a compromise, isn't it? Or I missed something? Although some factories clones have both slow and fast (like a Leslie) speed. What else should I try?

2. I used Silonex NSL-7532 with 150-200k - 6.7M light resistance, but in my opinion the depth is not that deep as in some replicas. I'm going to try NSL-5542 and CdS-9203, but I'm not sure about their rise and fall time. What would you recommend? Does anyone have some experience with them.

I'm attaching a link to my recording with the UV.
Eq: Strat -> UV clone -> Hiwatt HD20 -> Celestion G12 -> AT2020 -> Focusrite
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... u60nizI3RH

Update:
I just soldered up a dual B250k pot and my UV got even faster, like a Leslie. So, it's not still slow enough.

Hi
I wanna be sure I unstand your issue. You wanted to increase the Max speed? And now the oscilation is too fast when speed is at low settings? One thing inerent with the univibe design is that the lamp current amplitude is proportional with the speed. If you exchange the 2 diodes in the LFO, with ones with a higher forward voltage than the often used 1N4001 (fV 0.67 ish), or only use one, will give you a higher amplitude but will also increase the speed.

holm wrote: ↑15 May 2021, 14:54 Hi
I wanna be sure I unstand your issue. You wanted to increase the Max speed? And now the oscilation is too fast when speed is at low settings? One thing inerent with the univibe design is that the lamp current amplitude is proportional with the speed. If you exchange the 2 diodes in the LFO, with ones with a higher forward voltage than the often used 1N4001 (fV 0.67 ish), or only use one, will give you a higher amplitude but will also increase the speed.

I mean I managed to make it sound really fast by changing some components (C19, C21, R42, R43, speed pot), but I lost my low speed. A lot of clones on the market have both slow and fast speed. In other words, from Breathe to Any Colour You Like by Pink Floyd (in case someone doesn't know).
So my first question is about this.

The second question is about LDR for the best range of depth. Especially available on SmallBear Electronics.

Sorry for the late reply
In my clone I have 2K for R42 and R43 and 1µF for C19, C20 and C21, and I'm able to get ok sound similar to "Breathe". When you say you lost your slow speed, do you mean that when the speed potentiometer is set at 0, it's too fast? OR do mean there's no throb at the minimum speed setting?

Regarding the LDRs, I've found there's lot of variation of LDRs with the same specs, and you could buy some expensive LDRs, but to get a good range of depth isn't necessary dependent on the LDRs, to some extent yes, but there's a lot of other parameters. I got 50 pcs of 5547's of ebay cheap, and they work fine.

\Erik

Does anyone has shin-ei univibe "Veroboard layout" with parts? Thanks

DaveAir79 wrote: ↑24 Mar 2013, 00:53 Hi again...
I modified my replica Shin-ei/Univox Uni-Vibe with 8PDT Switch on the back of the Chassis, so Position 1= Shin-Ei 915 and position 2 = J Sproul (FX Watson) version.
I have to inform taht the pos n°2 is the best for far! More rich harmonics, more speed... more Jimi Hx sounds...
Keep on rockin'

Regards,

DAVE (from Argentina)

hello, how is everything?
looking for information in the search I ended up following your comment. I'm interested in building this sproul version, do you still have the pedal? did you make the video?
thankful

Hi andregarcia57, Yes I'm still building UV replicas.
What are you looking for? Does not exist such thing like Watson or Sproul version... You have the earlier version or the later. It is probably that these names came from which traced the PCB/layout.
Any doubt send me DM.
Cheers,
dave.egea

hello guys, a question about the transformer, I read practically every topic, I didn't find amperage data from the original transformer? how many mA are needed in the pedal? thanks

Last one I built drew 60 mA from an 18V DC supply, regulated down to 15V in the pedal.

hey guys
I have a finished Shinvibe working but I still haven't found a photocell kit that sounds like I'd like.



Is there anything new about photocells?

I've been following work from www.sabbadius.com and his units all seem to sound great, he's using 7mm photocells but there's no specification...

Does anyone have any tips on a photocell that has more intensity?
thanks

https://www.sabbadius.com/?page_id=109&lang=en
"The New 2022 7mm CdS Photocells CUSTOM-MADE for SABBADIUS will increase the throb INTENSITY in all aspects and you are going to feel that swirling sound that JIMI HENDRIX EXPERIENCED with the original Uni-Vibe he used."

Hi Andre,

Personally I think that none of the boutique builders around the world can purchase enough volume of components to obtain "custom-made"parts...

Perhaps this builder have depart from the classic 5mm LDR´s and accidentally discover that ones of 7mm in diameter suits better in their designs.

For example, there is a link to 7mm photocells:

https://fuse-china.en.made-in-china.com ... -160-.html

BTW, Mr Sabbadius sold a replica of a wah inductor (also claiming that is an exact reproduction of the legendary HALO) but is merely constructed using standard cores from EPCOS, formerly Siemens.

Cheers,
Jose

Hey Andre,

Don't get too hung up on the photocells. One big pedal manufacturer claims that his are 100% dead on replicas of the originals when in fact, they look nothing like them. Grab a set from Small Bear (if they still have them) and focus more on gain and offset (hopefully you built yours with trimmers instead of resistors).

Also remember that no two original Unvibes sounded the same. Shin Ei wasn't selecting and matching parts, they were just building them. I've owned six different Unvibes over the years, and they've all sounded slightly different. Some were stronger sounding than others, some had more phasing, etc. Plus... what sounds like a "good" Univibe to me may not sound like a "good" Unvibe to you.

Again, the gain and offset trimmers are going to have the biggest impact on how your vibe build sounds.

The Rotagilla.