freestompboxes.org

claytushaywood wrote:cool idea about making the split shaft solid! too bad those little pieces are subjected to a more devasting monster than the one that eats my socks in the dryer! ill try a hand blocking method or somethin

more likely to disappear if I use side cutters, but instead I use needle nose pliers and 'bend' them off.. the tab is there between the pliers

claytushaywood wrote: whats the secret trick for soldering wire to those pc mount pins?

tin wire. use needle nose pliers to make wee loops.. hand the loop over the lug.. solder.. then I solder to the board after.

The trick to removing the pot tab is to grab with side cuts, but dont cut, just break it off. Saw that on diysb long ago.

yes, just grab and bend it aside.
every kind of pliers works well

Intripped wrote:tip: the perfect material to be put in the split is the little prong that you have to cut before mounting the pot.

genius! i've been putting folded piece of foil in there.

Intripped wrote:like this:

Why (oh why) do people keep on taking these off instead of drilling a 3mm hole for em. Keeps the pot in position and makes the pedal far more reliable.

not all knobs will cover that hole, unfortunately.

I usually bend the pins into a C shape, bend the wire into a C shape hook as well, "dock" them, solder that and then heatshrink the result. I consider that as secure as a lug joint.

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:

Intripped wrote:like this:

Why (oh why) do people keep on taking these off instead of drilling a 3mm hole for em. Keeps the pot in position and makes the pedal far more reliable.

I have enough trouble getting my pots in a straight line

Here's how I do board mounted pots http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/inde ... pic=3222.0
Using the pcb pin type commonly available

Slightly cheaper pots here, btw:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet ... Categories

also some of them actually have solder terminals!

Hides-His-Eyes wrote: I have enough trouble getting my pots in a straight line

- Drill the hole for the pot
- put the pot in upside down in that hole and use the tab to "scratch" the radius of the tab on the case.
- drill a 3mm hole on that scratch.

howw difficult can it be

claytushaywood wrote:
whats the secret trick for soldering wire to those pc mount pins?

Bend 'em back with pliers and just wrap the wire around and solder.

greenskull wrote:

claytushaywood wrote:
whats the secret trick for soldering wire to those pc mount pins?

Bend 'em back with pliers and just wrap the wire around and solder.

Or just tin the pin, tin your stranded wire, lay wire on pin and quick zap with iron.

Dirk_Hendrik wrote:

Hides-His-Eyes wrote: I have enough trouble getting my pots in a straight line

- Drill the hole for the pot
- put the pot in upside down in that hole and use the tab to "scratch" the radius of the tab on the case.
- drill a 3mm hole on that scratch.

howw difficult can it be

Hot damn, that's gotta be tip of the year right there! I always tried to eye ball the small holes, doh...

I've never really tried using those Futurlec pots in any of my builds, furthermore, I've never ordered anything from Futurlec, I should though because the range of electronic parts you can source here in Australia is a bit limited, especially if you source them from Jaycar Electronics, Dick Smith Electronics used to be a good source until they decided to go all Consumer Electronics, I'm not sure about Altronics, my paypal account is currently limited to $50.00 maximum and it's been a real headache to try and increase that....

In the meantime I've been making do with the limited range of 16mm and 24mm Alpha pots that Jaycar sell...

Futurlec is kind of spotty with shipping, check out the place I listed, Tayda. I know some people who also build pedlulz in Australia who never have problems with Tayda Electronics.

I used Tayda for the first time last week, and was quite impressed. I wouldn't normally order from the states, but they had dual gang pots that seem pretty tricky to find in anything other than 1k/10k/100k here in the UK. Many standard components are much cheaper (electro caps, most transistors) and their shipping a little cheaper than euroshops like Banzai or Musikding. Ordered last friday, and it arrived today. Will definitely use again.

Nocentelli wrote:I used Tayda for the first time last week, and was quite impressed. I wouldn't normally order from the states, but they had dual gang pots that seem pretty tricky to find in anything other than 1k/10k/100k here in the UK. Many standard components are much cheaper (electro caps, most transistors) and their shipping a little cheaper than euroshops like Banzai or Musikding. Ordered last friday, and it arrived today. Will definitely use again.

Dont you mean shipping a LOT cheaper than Banzai..Banzai is 8 euros. tayda even on a bunch of stuff was like 8 US$...

I love tayda. It seems there PT2399 are on the money again aswell now.

Oh? I had heard bad stuff about the 2399s they had, I have a couple lying around that I ordered months ago. Hope they work well.

azrael wrote:Oh? I had heard bad stuff about the 2399s they had, I have a couple lying around that I ordered months ago. Hope they work well.

I had 20 bad ones all were refunded no issue,
Added one to a recent order, checks out fine in my deep blue test circuit. Low noise, no motor boating. Happy.