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i dont have a track cutter so i might do a layout on stripboard with no track cuts...

All you need is a 3.5mm (i'l have to check that when i can find mine) Drill Bit and just use it by hand, can even stick a handle on there if you want to keep it as a tool, Don't need to use an actual tool or if your careful you can even just use a stanley knife to slice inbetween the tracks. Not using track cuts might end up in some overly large layouts, then i guess on the other hand it might not.

so as long as the track is broken, even if it's like .1-.5 mm thick, it's enough?

trad3mark wrote:so as long as the track is broken, even if it's like .1-.5 mm thick, it's enough?

as long as the connection in the track is broken, nothing else is relevant. just make sure if you use something like a drill, as stated above, that you are carefule not to accidentally let the remains of the track create a bridge.

I'm having an odd problem.

I've built the pedal as per the "Factory De Fuzz" vero layout and all I get is a very gated buzzy sound. Setting the pedal up for FuzzFace sounds (as per previous posts) I get the same gated sound.

When I probe the board a really strange thing happens. It seems as if the input is being distorted straight from the guitar. By that I mean when I probe on the input the signal coming through the amp sounds overdriven???

Anyone know where I can start to look for problems?

Thanks

Kev

Anyone?

K

Barcode wrote:

trad3mark wrote:so as long as the track is broken, even if it's like .1-.5 mm thick, it's enough?

as long as the connection in the track is broken, nothing else is relevant. just make sure if you use something like a drill, as stated above, that you are carefule not to accidentally let the remains of the track create a bridge.

not sure how clear this image is, but basically, there's a .5mm gap on either side. i just scraped off the copper with a scapal and now most of the copper for that hole is removed... would this do it?

Looks like it should be okay, aslong as theres no copper connecting the piece either side of the hole down the edge or anything then your set, but from the picture looks good. Good luck with the build!

Could be a grounding issue Kev, is it inside a metal case yet ? if so make sure none of the connections are touching it and make sure all your grounding wiring is good.

Scruffie wrote:Could be a grounding issue Kev, is it inside a metal case yet ? if so make sure none of the connections are touching it and make sure all your grounding wiring is good.

Would a problem with grounding cause distortion at the input? If so, how & why?

It's in a case but the grounding "seems" fine. Obviously I'd need to check further but all the obvious things seem ok.

Regards

K

PS: I built one with the smaller (more square) vero layout and it worked fine the first time.

Well as my old electronics teacher said, electronics is a world of... ish I'm not sure why it would distort at the input to be honest these things just happen, someone better read in electronics might be able to tell you, i'm not too good at the theory.

I did read a thread about someone saying that they were having issues with that layout dunno if it was the same issue but heres what they did http://www.guitarforums.com/effects/196 ... zer-2.html

if it is truly distorting right at the input jack, there is no physical possibility of a circuit causing it. more likely is that your stock guitar signal clips the amp you are running the audio probe through.

Barcode wrote:if it is truly distorting right at the input jack, there is no physical possibility of a circuit causing it. more likely is that your stock guitar signal clips the amp you are running the audio probe through.

I assume that's because of the cap value on the probe?

Reason I ask is that the stock guitar signal doesn't clip the amp when I plug straight in. It only does it when I probe the input of my FuzzFactory?

K

Then the probe's capacitor is creating the distortion, so it might be busted.

hooray!
i know it's seriously minor progress, but i've ordered the only awkward to get part... the 3PDT switch. I'm going for the circuit with the led and the the plugin option. Also, on an aesthetic note, IF all goes well, i'll be ordering a transparent red box, which i'll diffuse along with the red led, so when the led's on, the whole box will have a menacing red glow.

on a related note, could someone verify, is THIS the DC jack i'd need?

Also, for matsumin's circuit, i think i'll do the main FF circuit on the stripboard, and to the part for the DC jack and LED on a seperate, smaller piece. Someone in college suggested i get some of the card we use for modelling (it's 1.5mm thick) and cut out the letters of whatever text i'm going to put on it, to mount on the inside (so they'll sillhouette the name) and solder the tiny led circuit to one of the pieces. So if it said "Fuzz Factory", take, for example, the second F cos it'll be in the middle, and use it as a sort of Matrixboard for the other circuit.
Opinions/ideas on that??

thanks again.

Ah the dreaded 3DPT i took to buying them from China on ebay in bulk as the price is reduced singificantly.

The Red Box idea sounds good, dunno if you might need more than the 1 red LED to give it a good amount of menace?

I'm pretty sure thats the right DC jack, aslong as they have 3 pins i think your good and its 2.1mm which is the right size.

And your gunna board the offboard wiring ? Personally i dont usually bother, aslong as your neat with your wiring its normally all good.

So are you saying you want a backing light behind the pieces of card, surely thatll come along with the menacing glow from the main LED/D's ? you might need to reitterate that point or i may just be misunderstanding due to being very tired.

Btw, I have built a fuzz factory before and photographed it along the way, & am currently building one for a friend, If you wanted i could write up a build report and try and be clear concise and explain the process if your unsure about what your doing, if not to follow as a background guide along with a few tips n' such i've picked up.

Scruffie wrote: So are you saying you want a backing light behind the pieces of card, surely thatll come along with the menacing glow from the main LED/D's ? you might need to reitterate that point or i may just be misunderstanding due to being very tired.

yeah...... kinda......

Basically, i've a whole load of random electronics bits and pieces at home from a few years ago. I went through them recently, and came across ~200 red LED's. However, i also noticed that they're the ultra bright kind. SO, what i'll do is diffuse them (you can do this the easy way with sandpaper), and diffuse the box in a similar way. Then i'll get that modeling card that's 1.5mm thick and cut out the lettering for the text on it (not sure if i'll do Fuzz Factory, but i'll definitely do Comp, drive, stab etc etc) and stick it to the INSIDE of the box, so that when the LED is on, they'll appear as menacing silhouettes.

I'll do a graphical explanation later

also, i ordered my 3PDT from ebay too. I happened to have €8 in my paypal acc, so i had just about enough for 1. so if i use a 3PDT, does that make it true bypass, or is it true bypass anyway?

Well certainly sounds interesting and hope it turns out how your planning, if you put some pics up i look forward to seeing it.

Yea 3DPT does mean it will be true bypass, you can also True Bypass with a DPDT ( Cheaper ) if you don't have an LED or if you build the millenium Bypass Circuit very simply which allows you to true bypass with a DPDT for more stuff like that you can look here for all the wiring options and explanations.

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/ind ... &Itemid=27

as a slight update, i'm having problems with Mouser. Nothing major, just issues with my credit card. Banks suck at the moment. They actually hate students.

trufax are tru