Zvex - Fuzz Factory [traced]
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
Ah i know the tape you mean, yea you'll stop burning yourself soon, just takes practice to not melt yourself every build (still breathe in those tasty lead and flux fumes though mmm mmm) Well good you've finally got a result, sounds like your on the final stretch (just hope nothing tries to stop it!) As for taping the board, i usually find it a bit easier and neater to just tape the side of the box if i have to, but whatever your preference i guess.
Tea sounds like a good idea...
Good luck,
Scruff.
Tea sounds like a good idea...
Good luck,
Scruff.
- trad3mark
- Resistor Ronker
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- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 15:55
- my favorite amplifier: Vox Valvetronix Series
- Completed builds: Super Hard On
Fuzz Factory
Aenima/Torn's Peaker (2 in 1 box with toggle switch)
Valvecaster Deluxe (Boost before VC)
Proco Rat (Mod to power jack, and input cap changed)
87% PillowStone
87% GlassJaw - Location: Ireland (Dublin/Waterford)
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i think it's a case of everything that can go wrong, will go wrong. I think i've broken the switch...
A similar case has happened to me before when doing a killswitch for a friend. As you may know, occasionally, if you've to solder more than one thing to a pole on a switch, the plastic around the pole can melt, and inevitably, the pole can come loose. Well, first off, it started with pole 3 (where input is). I melted the plastic, moved the pole into as vertical a position as i could, and put on a tonne of solder, and it lived.
then it happened with pole 6 (where output is) and i did the same, melted it to bits, soldered it to bits, and it worked.
Well, it's just after happening to pole 8 (connected to Input) and disaster has struck. I now have no LED power indicator, and no input or output. ALSO, and more worryingly, when i press the switch to turn on, the latching MECHANISM feels as it should, but when i press to turn it off, it feels so much easier, like something's gone internally?
so this begs the question, keep on soldering to bits until i get a LED sign, or, order a new switch and have to wait for aaaaaaaaaaaggggges again......
A similar case has happened to me before when doing a killswitch for a friend. As you may know, occasionally, if you've to solder more than one thing to a pole on a switch, the plastic around the pole can melt, and inevitably, the pole can come loose. Well, first off, it started with pole 3 (where input is). I melted the plastic, moved the pole into as vertical a position as i could, and put on a tonne of solder, and it lived.
then it happened with pole 6 (where output is) and i did the same, melted it to bits, soldered it to bits, and it worked.
Well, it's just after happening to pole 8 (connected to Input) and disaster has struck. I now have no LED power indicator, and no input or output. ALSO, and more worryingly, when i press the switch to turn on, the latching MECHANISM feels as it should, but when i press to turn it off, it feels so much easier, like something's gone internally?
so this begs the question, keep on soldering to bits until i get a LED sign, or, order a new switch and have to wait for aaaaaaaaaaaggggges again......
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
Aw no... now that sucks, I snapped the switch clean in half with my first build because i forgot to put a washer on the underneath of the case aswell as on top and tightening it split it.
Well... i guess you can order another one now and then keep going at it, if you fix it you got a spare switch for the next time and a working fuzz. If you dont, then youll have something to keep you busy till the next comes, unless you have enough working pins to move it round somehow ? maybe even if it means losing the LED
The first builds always a struggle, but you'll learn from it (Btw are you using a sharp point soldering iron or a flattish one, i used a flat one for the first few and just got a sharp one and its made life sooo much easier, worth the £5) & I guess you'll just have to count your losses, atleast you have a working fuzz factory Circuit!... just can't turn it on yet...
Well hope you manage to get it going,
Good luck,
Scruff.
Well... i guess you can order another one now and then keep going at it, if you fix it you got a spare switch for the next time and a working fuzz. If you dont, then youll have something to keep you busy till the next comes, unless you have enough working pins to move it round somehow ? maybe even if it means losing the LED
The first builds always a struggle, but you'll learn from it (Btw are you using a sharp point soldering iron or a flattish one, i used a flat one for the first few and just got a sharp one and its made life sooo much easier, worth the £5) & I guess you'll just have to count your losses, atleast you have a working fuzz factory Circuit!... just can't turn it on yet...
Well hope you manage to get it going,
Good luck,
Scruff.
- trad3mark
- Resistor Ronker
Information
- Posts: 330
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 15:55
- my favorite amplifier: Vox Valvetronix Series
- Completed builds: Super Hard On
Fuzz Factory
Aenima/Torn's Peaker (2 in 1 box with toggle switch)
Valvecaster Deluxe (Boost before VC)
Proco Rat (Mod to power jack, and input cap changed)
87% PillowStone
87% GlassJaw - Location: Ireland (Dublin/Waterford)
- Been thanked: 1 time
yeah i ordered 2 just a while ago from the effects connection. As you said, at least i have a working circuit, so when i get the switch, i'll just swap it in.
it's very agrivating though, but yeah, these things happen.

it's very agrivating though, but yeah, these things happen.
- flood
- Resistor Ronker
Information
current status of my fuzz factory enclosure (yet to be drilled):

the image is a woodcut of purgatory. the runes read: "fuzz", "factory", the description from the zvex site, and "sauron loves the fuzz factory too! ROFLcopter". i stupidly scuffed the etching in parts, and some parts around the lettering are extremely spotty - but i am going to experiment with spray-on photoresist soon as an alternative to iron-ons.

the image is a woodcut of purgatory. the runes read: "fuzz", "factory", the description from the zvex site, and "sauron loves the fuzz factory too! ROFLcopter". i stupidly scuffed the etching in parts, and some parts around the lettering are extremely spotty - but i am going to experiment with spray-on photoresist soon as an alternative to iron-ons.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am Animal Factory Amplification.
- trad3mark
- Resistor Ronker
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- Posts: 330
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 15:55
- my favorite amplifier: Vox Valvetronix Series
- Completed builds: Super Hard On
Fuzz Factory
Aenima/Torn's Peaker (2 in 1 box with toggle switch)
Valvecaster Deluxe (Boost before VC)
Proco Rat (Mod to power jack, and input cap changed)
87% PillowStone
87% GlassJaw - Location: Ireland (Dublin/Waterford)
- Been thanked: 1 time
lol! i'm actually laughing. But i'm not laughing AT IT! It's one of those laughs where someone out does something so much, that it's ridiculous. That finish job is crazy. In a good way!!! like i know there's some cool fuzz factory custom paint jobs out there, but i think that takes the cake. Seriously astounding work there. Nicely done. 
Is it a normal sized fuzz factory box?
as for me, I was so close......
http://i41.tinypic.com/t5t738.jpg
i think i will paint it
Is it a normal sized fuzz factory box?
as for me, I was so close......
http://i41.tinypic.com/t5t738.jpg
i think i will paint it
- flood
- Resistor Ronker
Information
hey thanks!trad3mark wrote:lol! i'm actually laughing. But i'm not laughing AT IT! It's one of those laughs where someone out does something so much, that it's ridiculous. That finish job is crazy. In a good way!!! like i know there's some cool fuzz factory custom paint jobs out there, but i think that takes the cake. Seriously astounding work there. Nicely done.
Is it a normal sized fuzz factory box?
as for me, I was so close......
http://i41.tinypic.com/t5t738.jpg
i think i will paint it
i'm using long-shaft pots too! still need to cut those to size.
you can look at it this way - you can still do anything you want with your box!
In the interest of full disclosure, I am Animal Factory Amplification.
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
Damns you artistic types, that box is very nice and i'm sure alot of people on here would agree with you that zvex is the devil on top of his high hill, although i bare no personal grudge... Wish i could do good images and get some etching going, i normally just write on them in pen which is very dull... I particularly liked this image of scream.
Scruff.jfromel wrote:just finished this.... rehouse and workover of an Ibanez ADL...
Nice to see some other etchings, very cool stuff so far.
- trad3mark
- Resistor Ronker
Information
- Posts: 330
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 15:55
- my favorite amplifier: Vox Valvetronix Series
- Completed builds: Super Hard On
Fuzz Factory
Aenima/Torn's Peaker (2 in 1 box with toggle switch)
Valvecaster Deluxe (Boost before VC)
Proco Rat (Mod to power jack, and input cap changed)
87% PillowStone
87% GlassJaw - Location: Ireland (Dublin/Waterford)
- Been thanked: 1 time
ololol! now that's evil... I'm going to hand draw the design and then tweak it in photoshop. I think it's going to be black, white and red with some sort of an enamel over the whole thing...
- trad3mark
- Resistor Ronker
Information
- Posts: 330
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 15:55
- my favorite amplifier: Vox Valvetronix Series
- Completed builds: Super Hard On
Fuzz Factory
Aenima/Torn's Peaker (2 in 1 box with toggle switch)
Valvecaster Deluxe (Boost before VC)
Proco Rat (Mod to power jack, and input cap changed)
87% PillowStone
87% GlassJaw - Location: Ireland (Dublin/Waterford)
- Been thanked: 1 time
between bitsbox.co.uk and how well the pedal worked, i've ordered parts to make a second FF 
So,
After some time I am back looking at this thread.
People still making these things ha?
Ok, so I FINALLY had an original disected on the bench this weekend.
Here you see the board. Zvex branded germs riiiiiight. 5k linear. Not a 5CK to be seen.

Now look here - MPSA18 hmm ok then.

And so the Factory de Fuzz is updated and confirmed. Yes, yes you have to flip the Stab wires if you built it earlier blame shitty French schems. Actually you don't have to who cares which way it turns.

Igloo.
After some time I am back looking at this thread.
People still making these things ha?
Ok, so I FINALLY had an original disected on the bench this weekend.
Here you see the board. Zvex branded germs riiiiiight. 5k linear. Not a 5CK to be seen.

Now look here - MPSA18 hmm ok then.

And so the Factory de Fuzz is updated and confirmed. Yes, yes you have to flip the Stab wires if you built it earlier blame shitty French schems. Actually you don't have to who cares which way it turns.

Igloo.
- Spazzmatazz
- Breadboard Brother
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- Posts: 135
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008, 14:07
Zvex branded germs...
I could do Spazz branded germs...
I could do Spazz branded germs...
- Forced_Fire
- Breadboard Brother
Thanks for the great thread everyone!








- trad3mark
- Resistor Ronker
Information
- Posts: 330
- Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 15:55
- my favorite amplifier: Vox Valvetronix Series
- Completed builds: Super Hard On
Fuzz Factory
Aenima/Torn's Peaker (2 in 1 box with toggle switch)
Valvecaster Deluxe (Boost before VC)
Proco Rat (Mod to power jack, and input cap changed)
87% PillowStone
87% GlassJaw - Location: Ireland (Dublin/Waterford)
- Been thanked: 1 time
nice work igloo 
i just ebay'd their ass. those MPSA18's are quite cheap on ebay. Looks to me like zack vex knew he was onto a winner, so between the ZVex AC128's (or at least i'm assuming they're pretty identical to them considering older FF's have ac128's) it looks like he's doing serious investment protecting.
i just ebay'd their ass. those MPSA18's are quite cheap on ebay. Looks to me like zack vex knew he was onto a winner, so between the ZVex AC128's (or at least i'm assuming they're pretty identical to them considering older FF's have ac128's) it looks like he's doing serious investment protecting.
Igloo wrote:So,
After some time I am back looking at this thread.
People still making these things ha?
Ok, so I FINALLY had an original disected on the bench this weekend.
Here you see the board. Zvex branded germs riiiiiight. 5k linear. Not a 5CK to be seen.
Now look here - MPSA18 hmm ok then.
And so the Factory de Fuzz is updated and confirmed. Yes, yes you have to flip the Stab wires if you built it earlier blame shitty French schems. Actually you don't have to who cares which way it turns.
Igloo.
Any one have a part number for the the pots and switch? I searched alpha taiwan but couldnt find them as well as mouser.
Thanks
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
A part number for which shop and country? You might have to get a 4.7k Linear pot as some places don't stock 5k as for the switch you either want a DPDT for no LED or 3PDT for true bypass & LED.
Scruffie.
Scruffie.
A part number for which shop and country?Scruffie wrote:A part number for which shop and country? You might have to get a 4.7k Linear pot as some places don't stock 5k as for the switch you either want a DPDT for no LED or 3PDT for true bypass & LED.
Scruffie.
I live in the usa .. I forget that people from all over the world visit free stomp boxes
Thanks.
- Scruffie
- Opamp Operator
Quite alright, Small Bear Elec stock the pots here http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=555 and switches here http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories ... %2C+Relays or Futurlec do pots here http://www.futurlec.com/PotRot.shtml
Hope these help,
Scruffie.
Hope these help,
Scruffie.
Scruffie wrote:Quite alright, Small Bear Elec stock the pots here http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=555 and switches here http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories ... %2C+Relays or Futurlec do pots here http://www.futurlec.com/PotRot.shtml
Hope these help,
Scruffie.
Thanks again.
