freestompboxes.org

Imlooking for the part number for these pots and a switch like the fuzz factory uses.
Thanks

Here is the switch.
Thanks

Oh i do appologise, i didn't know you were after exact parts, just values, in that case i'l have a look tommorow unless anyone replies before i do. Just to be sure, you do know they all work a like don't you? Don't want to sound patronising but i wasn't sure if you were just trying to build an exact clone or just weren't sure.

Sorry and thanks,
Scruffie.

The small ZVex pots are made by Alpha. You can get them either from Mouser or Small Bear. SB has better prices on them and a wider selection of values, but you'll get much quicker service from Mouser, so I guess it just depends on how long you feel like waiting.

The NKK brand footswitch is unobtainium in the U.S. I've looked around for them, but the only place I've ever seen them used is in pedals built in Asia. You'd have an easier time finding a Fujisoku. The U.S.-made ZVex pedals don't use them. If you want to use a DPDT, I recommend the small Alpha one (again, you can get from either Mouser or Small Bear). Otherwise, the standard blue 3PDT that everyone uses would be more than adequate.

I found these http://www.mouser.com/catalog/637/678.pdf and these http://www.mouser.com/catalog/637/674.pdf

Thanks

any way to get some octave up out of this one?

Look at the octavia schematics

Add a diode ring + transformer on the end. Sounds pretty sweet!

right...

new switch arrived today. Wired it up, double checked all my wiring, plugged in a new battery, then when i connected up the jacks, nothing... not even an led.

ideas?

mmm.... getting slightly closer.

I have true bypass, so i think it's pot wiring, or, a mistake somewhere around the jack/switch/led.

I know this is a MASSIVE favour but if someone could post CONFIRMED pot wirings, cos there's about 40 billion different ones at this stage. Preferably, if you're posting a schematic, could you mark 1 2 3 on each pot?

ill keep trying till then.

thanks
tm

Hey again trad3mark, did you look at the post i put up on the previous page with the complete wiring and the pots shown as 3, 2, 1 from the back. Just to check, do you have the switch the right way around ? It does have to go with the poles going like this ---- rather than ||| Cause that layout is completely confirmed (even if a little messy) i have a working version following that exactly right next to me.

Hope you get there,
Scruffie.

yeah i wired it up along the poles going - - -

in this diagram of yours, are ALL the pots 3 2 1, cos i've 4 schematics in front of me, and there's conflictions everywhere...

https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/ ... &mode=view

Yea works for me, even if they weren't 3,2,1 all it would mean is the pot worked backwards but i've had 2 succesful builds from that pot layout, Igloo just reposted his original aswell on that page and it confirms mine which is his really anyway, I just corrected the stab wiring on it. I think Igloo said there was a few issues with the schematics floating around being wrong so that's why originally he had the stab wired up wrong.

Scruffie.

i think it's an issue with the switch, cos i'm not even getting the LED to come on...

Could well be, i have heard of dodgy switches coming off ebay, dunno if this is a regular occurence or not though, or it could just be a simple wiring mistake, if you have a multi meter you could check the circuit for ratings, check for simple things like having the input and output the wrong way round, also i tend to check the pedals without the DC jack wired up, just battery first as i somehow manage to sod it up everytime, also check the orientation of your LED ( if you have a spare just turn the pedal on and stick the 2 connections the opposite way across the original, dunno if that's bad practice but its what i always do as itll show if there is actually power and its something else in the circuit) i also normally have a play with the jacks just to make sure there not the issue, connecting them with a spare piece of wire etc. infact poking with a spare bit of wire has solved alot of my issues.

i haven't done anything with the pedal since it broke before, just change the switch. It's odd.

I'm re-wiring the pots now, then i'll double check the switch, and replace the led part of the schem, incase the led's burnt out or somthing.

grrrrr

ffs!!!

still can't get it working... so...

how can i change a 3pdt into a dpdt??

basically, i have enough to build another FFm but i have 3 3pdt switches, and 1 dpdt switch, so how do i go about removing the dc jack and making it a dpdt true bypass?

Ah that sucks, but here you go, see if it sorts it http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dt_std.gif

Scruffie.

i know cursing here is discouraged, unless appropriate, but grr fucking rrr....

i checked ALL the wiring, and still nothing. I ran my finger across almost all the joints when it's turned on. I get that power humm buzz noise at points. I know it's so close. It's really pissing me off now, purely because of how close it is........... amongst other reasons........

anyway, i think if i get nowhere tomorrow, i'll buy a multimeter....

sham. epic sham.

ok, so, still not getting anywhere this morning. I've made a few changes to simplify the whole thing, but still, nothing. Here's how my wiring is:

POTS:
Volume
1 > Master Ground (ON BOARD)
2 > +ve of Elec Cap (C1)
3 > 5.1k res

Gate
1 > Gate 2
2 > Gate 1 AND 470R
3 > Master Ground (ON BOARD)

Compression
1 > Comp 2
2 > Comp 1 AND 10k (I think it's R5 on the layout)
3 > Drive 3 AND 47k

Drive
1 > Stab 3
2 > -ve of C2
3 > Comp 3

Stability
1 > Stab 2
2 > Stab 1 AND +ve of BATTERY CLIP
3 > Drive 1 AND +ve of C2

Input Jack
Hot > DPDT Switch pole 4 (See Below)
Switched > -ve of BATTERY CLIP
Ground > OUTPUT JACK Ground

Output Jack
Hot > DPDT Switch pole 3 (See Below)
Ground > Master Ground

DPDT Switch
where referenced above, the pole order is:
1 2
3 4
5 6
wired as here: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dt_std.gif
1 > DPDT 2
2 > DPDT 1
3 > Input HOT
4 > Output HOT
5 > -ve of C3 (Labled Output on Layouts)
6 > -ve of C1 (Labled Input on Layouts)

I think you need to Swap 5 & 6 Round on your DPDT Switch there and not sure about it's importance but Volume 1 & Gate 3 should connect before going to ground, otherwise good.

Scruffie.