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volume 1 and gate 3 are connected on the board at ground. Like my Master Ground is a line on the board where all the grounds go to.

also, with the switch, if i swap 5 and 6, won't the input signal be going to the pedal output?

Hmm i don't think so, a switch works like this (hope this is clear enough)

- - <Either these 4
- - <Are working
- -

- -
- - < Or These
- - < When it's switched the other way

|
| <
| < So When you switch your carrying these 2 on one half side of the switch which are connected together from the pedal input to the circuit input and the unused one is how you get your true bypass as it just runs across the 2 and goes straight out, A DPDT iss basically 2 SPDT working together next to eachother.

Hope that clears it up a bit, unless i've just misread what you said.

i kinda get it....
i though that it was like this: (O is on, X is off)
O X
O X
O X
and then
X O
X O
X O

but actually, it's more like
X X
O O
O O
and then
O O
O O
X X

right?

Yea thats right, that could be your problem.

k i'll try that. Just waiting for my soldering iron to heat up.

Also, i painted my box properly yesterday. It looks viscous!! But i left my camera in my student res, so no good images till mondargh.

The only decision i've to make with the box is, do i want the dials in Raging Red or Gogetsome Grey... Bare in mind that the box is white, with black text, and some of the original aluminium showing through....

Hmm i say red, add more of a contrast of colours and look more menacing, Grey would just blend in i recon... But i'l be intrigued to see it.

tried flipping 5 and 6 scruffie, and i just get hum.

Well the boards input and the input jack should be on the same
x
o
o
row as the generalguitargadget wiring shows, so that bit is correct, now we have to decide why it's humming... Are volume 1 & Gate 3 Physically attatched, not just both running to ground, I know it probably won't make sod all difference but gotta try every option. And are those double row jacks wired okay, i know i said just to connect the 2 on either side together but technically, you only have to use the side where when you insert the jack the bits of metal touch it, where as on the other side they don't if you get me, so make sure those connections are good. As for the jack layout

IN Hole> 0 Ground |, Sleeve |, Hot Tip |
0 | | |

Scruffie wrote:Well the boards input and the input jack should be on the same
x
o
o
row as the generalguitargadget wiring shows, so that bit is correct, now we have to decide why it's humming... Are volume 1 & Gate 3 Physically attatched, not just both running to ground, I know it probably won't make sod all difference but gotta try every option. And are those double row jacks wired okay, i know i said just to connect the 2 on either side together but technically, you only have to use the side where when you insert the jack the bits of metal touch it, where as on the other side they don't if you get me, so make sure those connections are good. As for the jack layout

IN Hole> 0 Ground |, Sleeve |, Hot Tip |
0 | | |

no, should i run a wire between them and then 1 wire to ground, or a wire between them and BOTH going to ground?

Just 1 Wire Going Between them then going to ground.

nope, no luck...

i have true bypass, but nothing when it's turned on...

Swap 5 & 6 Back round, i've just realised you said they were labelled as output on your layout but the opposite is true of my layout for where they are actually placed. Just by that reasoning output would have been crossed with input but from the actual layout, this is not so, just the labelling is incorrect.

Scruffie wrote:Swap 5 & 6 Back round, i've just realised you said they were labelled as output on your layout but the opposite is true of my layout for where they are actually placed.

https://www.freestompboxes.org/download/ ... &mode=view

if you see on this layout where the wires coming OFF THE BOARD labled Input (hole e25) and output (hole c1), they're corresponding with input/output from the board on the DPDT diagram. is that right?

Yea, i'm pretty definite that's all correct (I did that layout when tired and am now once again tired, but as far as i'm looking at it now, thats is entirely right)

hmmm....
anything i could try?

Ah so you do have yours like that, Umm cry ? To be honest it's getting to the point where i'm gunna blame witch craft, you had it working before didn't you ? for a brief period so it just don't make sense, unless somethings accidently grounded, accidently bridged, accidently burnt out, or someone spots a problem in anything i've said but looking over all the layouts and my actual one, i can't see it myself... so yea, witchcraft.

Unless you somehow mistook the LED wiring for the truebypass bit, where as its the small piece of black wire across the 2 bottom bits... But that's unlikely, just fishing for anything now.

remember the link to that site you had before? i think it was like soundscape or something? what was it and i'll do a quick check against that...

Hmm i'm not sure what link you mean, but I will draw up a complete layout (not messy like the last one) for the DPDT Switch, check it against my one and make sure it's okay now. I'l be as quick as pos (Say 5 Minutes)

found it, it was this one:#
http://www.guitarforums.com/effects/196 ... zer-2.html

is that one right? the bit in the middle about the various pots says:

I saw your vero layout has no problem, the pot wiring just good though I may recommend
pot as shown
321
tap your 9v+ wire to stab2 and tap jumper to stab1
tap your stab3 into the board as the schem
tap your drive1 to stab3
disconnect comp2 jumper from comp1 then tap comp2 to comp3 as jumper
disconnect or remove the all GATE pot and all the blue wire, this maybe the problem, I think this is a Mojo and just create the gated sound plus RF freq
disconnect the R3(470R) and replace it with new value resistor 2k and reconnect this new 2k one end to Q1 base and the other end down to the ground in your vero
adjust the comp to eliminate RF Freq, the stab should have at least 4.5v or half the power supply voltage. You can fix this up with fix resistor value when you find the exact sound. I think this one is also a mojo to emulate the dying battery/power sound to get several fuzz tone sound.
that's it.

BUT, i have comp 1 to comp 2, would that make a difference?

also, while i'm checking that one, i've started on a second FF

That layout is confirmed as working, ignore the text below the link to the image https://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z93 ... uzz333.png as igloo has since updated the change in wiring. Perhaps your second one will work and it'll just be one of those mystery builds that has some issue.