freestompboxes.org

Scruffie wrote:That layout is confirmed as working, ignore the text below the link to the image https://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z93 ... uzz333.png as igloo has since updated the change in wiring. Perhaps your second one will work and it'll just be one of those mystery builds that has some issue.

my comp is wired wrong i think...

Your right, he has changed the orientation over from 2-1 to 3-2 ... It's like that on my working builds, but try it and see, maybe there not working as they should and I just haven't picked up on it

i rewired comp AND....... nothing...

i'm off for a bit of food. any ureka insights would be amazing... ALSO, just briefly, on this schem: (https://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z93 ... uzz333.png) are the roundy bits for the AC128's the same side as the BC558's? like if i'm looking at my board, the rounded side of the FIRST BC558 should be facing the centre of the board (facing the side of the 2 Electrolytes)?

Q1 & Q2 Should Both Face that way

||) ||) (||

Like that.

hmmm...

cos if you look at schematics, they all say the collector of, for example, Q1, should go to the 5.1k, but, if you look at this:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashe ... /BC558.pdf
then the BC558 FLAT FACE should be facing AWAY from C1 instead of towards it.

Oh sorry you are right, I must of socketed them the wrong way after I last took them out (The only issue of using sockets I guess, unless they for some reason work both ways, but you had it working before with them the way they are at the moment so lets say not)

i also went with one of those blue polybox caps. just incase it makes some mad uber difference lol!

Nah Should be fine, Aslong as it's rated correctly to the right uF

lol! i asked a friend of mine what difference it'd make, cos he uses them in some guitar builds. he said "It might make it a bit clearer cos they're a bit better than the shitty cheap ones"

my reply was "sorry, what's clear about the sound from a fuzz factory?"

Yes the layout works without issue-

I build one last week and I had an original the bench.
Using a decent film cap, not the nasty nasal sounding ceramic one of the original plus decent germs in the Fuzzface range HFE 80/120 it sound much nicer. I really preferred it. Maybe even a usable effect Lol.
@Trademark please do buy a multimeter really seems impossible to be building without one. Even if you are lazy like me and use it only to check your resistors without bothering to remember the color codes.

This is a very simple circuit so you can't be far away from having it working.
Start here though...

Take a guitar lead and 100nf capacitor wrap or clamp one lead to the tip the other to your cheapest amp. Now, volume very low? Ok plug in and turn on with the effect fired up. Touch it the other leg on the input you hear it? Ok from there follow the path of the signal to the caps and Q3 of the layout keep going, it will be very obvious where the problem is... You now have the best tool you will ever own in pedal building. The 10c audio probe!
The schematic is in this thread, it is really easy to follow or learn if it is your first attempt.
You will solve it, don't worry.

im over that first build now...

nearly done with the board on the second! i also noticed that i've to flip the 2n3904, but maybe it's cos my board is sort of backwards? but i'm going by these two so i know it's to be flipped:
https://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z93 ... uzz333.png
and
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3904.pdf

Flipped?

No, if you are using a Fairchild it is exactly as shown
You see the little 'c' on Q1, that shows the orientation of the collector on this layout. With older Germs if they have a colored dot THAT will be the collector. If they have the metal tab, just to be difficult,THAT shows the emitter.
Now to make things extra clear, this only applies USUALLY. Only usually. So always check the datasheet for the devices you actually are using.

You want to solve your problems and learn something? Use the audio probe.
You want to speculate endlessly... don't.

I think alot of the issue might be your flipped layout that you've accidently done, and the amount you've probably soldered and unsoldered by now, put it down to experience, salvage the parts and start this build straight out (I just noticed something on my first build, not my latest one, the Input cap is the wrong way round polarity wise & the transistors now work the other way round, hence my earlier comment, how odd, works just as well as my correct version but i should probably sort it anyway to be safe) but yea in future, i reallyy suggest socketing transistors, especially for fuzz circuits where you may aquire some germanium transistors later to replace the silicons or atleast with your first few builds you can use them, get the circuit right then remove the socket and put it straight in if your worried about it being knocked out or something.

I like the $0.10 audio probe idea Igloo, might have to try that if i run into any issues with later builds. And yes, lets hope this build runs a little smoother.

Oh and btw Igloo, how come the comp wiring has switched from 2-1 to 3-2 on your new layout? A mistake or should i change that in future builds, it seems to work okay as it is...?

as a slight update, the "flipped" transistors on the first FF worked, so i'm kinda referencing off that build, and also, the schematic (not the layout). So assuming the schematic is right, and the data sheets are right, and my first schem (when it did work) was right, then it should be fine... i think.... we shall see soon anyway

right...
so, worked solidly on V2 for the last 2hrs 45mins. I'm SERIOUSLY close. For a first wiring, i knew it wasn't going to work first time, but, i have an LED! i didn't have it before, i also have true bypass, but i can't properly test it till the morning, cos it's 10 to 3, and the house is asleep. So, tomorrow i check all my wiring. Getting an LED light and true bypass is v.close, i remember this stage on V1...

it's late though, and the solder fumes are adding to an aching head. a good sleep, a fresh start, and hopefuly, lots of fuzz...

Scruffie wrote:
I like the $0.10 audio probe idea Igloo, might have to try that if i run into any issues with later builds. And yes, lets hope this build runs a little smoother.

Oh and btw Igloo, how come the comp wiring has switched from 2-1 to 3-2 on your new layout? A mistake or should i change that in future builds, it seems to work okay as it is...?

Hi Scruffie,
The audio probe is a right of passage for every DIYer. Most people advocate it for a while after making it. "Best tool ever" etc I am only one in a long line of users of this. Best to make it in a small plastic box with a proper probe and an old guitar cable or a jack.
The "comp" and "stab" wiring have been brought into alignment with an actual unit as opposed to a net schem.
Why don't you snip the connector and try it both ways- see what happens

@ trad3mark

Sounds like you are almost there.
Excellent.

Just so happens i have a spare plastic enclsoure lying around for such a build, percect! lol.

Ah I can't really snip it annoyingly, i've done all my wiring on board on my latest build darn it, but the next one i guess, works nicely enough so I can't complain too much.

You'll get there trad3mark... I think thought out this thread now there must be an answer to every single fuzz factory build issue there could be.

Cheers,
Scruffie.

Sounds great, Scruffie.
To use it, of course you must ground to the circuit you are testing, a single wire and alligator clamp is perfect.
You will save yourself 100 times with this.

Powered by the might of a single capacitor!

Genius, I'l get on that when i get a chance and buy a suitable probe or find a socket for my multimeter one to put on the outside of the case, thankfully my builds so far haven't been too problematic, but i've just done a dr boogey on vero which is my largest so that may come up with a flaw.

Cheers Igloo.