freestompboxes.org

I tried a lot of IC and out of the bunch I do prefer the LF353, it has a nice 'edge' that slightly reminds the real plexi.
Try a combo of one silicon diode and on the other side a silicon plus a schottky, it sounds interesting.

What type of caps can i use here mkt or something else.

I used mostly wima box type caps.

How do i wire the toggle switctch,i'm running it now without the toggle switch and i must say that it has too much treble.Please can anybody help me with this.Thanks already.

screamingdemon wrote:How do i wire the toggle switctch,i'm running it now without the toggle switch and i must say that it has too much treble.Please can anybody help me with this.Thanks already.

I ran wires from what would be the two connections for C3 (.0012) to a DPDT. I only tried a .0012 (stock value) and 470pf on the switch but the .0012 won out for me so I just disconnected the switch and hardwired the cap as per the schem (i.e., no toggle). No cap was bright for me, too, and the 470 pf was too dark for me, (and I'm even a Twin Reverb kind of guy). So in short my opinion is that if you just put in the .0012uf cap you wouldn't be missing out on much by not doing the toggle thing (it IS always nice to experimenting with caps, though, of course). And as always, YMMV.

Thanks for the information,i sure gonna try that.

I just built one on the vero layout posted earlier in the thread with an LF353n.

It's definitely bright...probably too bright. I tried one 1n34a in place of the stock D2 and it lowered the output a little to the point where I had it dimed for just a slight boost and it didn't change the tone much at all.

great simple circuit though.

sadrew wrote:My pcb layout (verified)

I have not included the 3 way toggle switch. To do this, replace the 1,2nF cap with two wires going to the DPDT on-off on and put caps of the preferred value (I used 1,2 / 0 / 4,7 nF)

One of your jumper is going to ground, looks like an accident.

is there anyway to tame the high end and get less gain?

I tried messing around with R6 and the c3 values.

- R6 down to 440k lowered output to much
- C3 lower makes it brighter and larger values makes it boom(ier) but doesn't seem to effect the high end as much.

I like this one better than the box of rock so far but I need to lower the high end somehow.

Try adding a 500k drive pot like MarkM's layout.

tried that and half of the range or more of the pot is unusable as no sound comes out and the output which is already weak gets to the point where you have to play under unity gain.

I just built this with some slight modifications. Used a dpdt switch to select between no cliping diodes, 2 1n914's and 4 1n914's. Interestingly enough there is not a huge difference in tone, very slight increase in gain and maybe a bit more compression with 2 diodes than four, and likewise with four to none. Seems like this pedal's signiture tone comes mostly from the IC. I've only tried it with the TLO72 but I just got in some 353's today, are they worth unboxing the pedal to try out? I left out the
warm/bright/normal switched, the youtube clips i've heard of the pedal make it sound kind of pointless. I might ditch the 470k resistor for a 500k gain pot though.

I stuck a TLC262 op amp in mine, then socketed the diodes, settled on RED leds I think. I left the gain pot mod off and just left it with the single output knob. IMO changing the opamp type and the diodes to higher threshold types really improved the playability of the circuit, much more dynamic (as to be expected with a higher clipping threshold) and the TLC262 actually adds "some not too horrible" clipping of it's own!

I switch out the opamp for a 353 and how, what a huge difference. Less gain (good thing) way smoother and more dynamic as well. I replaced the 470K resistor with an spdt to toggle between 220K and 470K, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Very happy with the opamp change though.

my hao rust ride bass pedal has a TL072CN in it. the circuit is very much like the rust driver with a few resistor changes and voicing switch adds caps across the output not the feedback loop.

What exactly are the differences between the rust driver and the rust ride bass pedal? I ran my 6-string bass through my rust driver and it seems to have potential. A little less gain, a clean blend, in/out cap changes and maybe adjustable gain/tone are what I was thinking.

Hello everybody!

I've buit my version based on the Crust Driver Layout courteously provided by nooneknows earlier in this threat. I tried out an LF412CN by NSC and an LM358P by TI, but when I tried an LF353N by STM no sound was produced. Then I measured the input resistance on all 10 LF353s and found that it was 0.1M (+/-5%), whereas it sould be 1000M according to the Datasheet.

So I wonder if that was a defective batch I bought or I damaged them somehow or I was doing something wrong.

Thanks.

Appologize for double posting

These IC's were indeed out of order because they proved to be chineze fake; So I took them back and exchanged for ST Microelecronics' LF353Ns. These really work.

And I also tried out an LM 422 CN -- not so bad I must say.

I made one some time ago, I made my own vero layout (altough there a re a couple, one from a fellow italian!)
I found in this very moment why my build was real crap sounding...
I made my layout following MarkM perf layout, you can find them in the other forum. (one is 1 knob, one is 2 knobs) There's a typo in those two layouts. you can read .012µF, while actually it should be .0012µF, so 1,2nF and not 12nF. I guess that made a good pedal a bad one...
Gotta build it again with the right capacitor!

Thanks for the correction, Renegadrian!

Ciao