freestompboxes.org

AmpBastler wrote:Some details are wrong, but otherwise man - well Cloner!

Fab the pcb and it will sound like the original schumann.

you know man, i'll never fab this pcb, i like to draw my own layout.
i did this work just to be sure about the 9V conversion... and also because i didn't like your attitude.

i think, and everyone else too i guess, that you did a very nice work with this effect
if you had shared a complete schema with values or even only if you had shared some other details about the process of converting this thing to 9V - for example the way you have obtained Vref, or your considerations about using the CD4016BE chip and omitting the LM660CN and 74HC14N, then everyone here would have been grateful and satisfied.
just to be clear: you have never been obliged to share your layout - this was definitely up to you - if someone here is blaming you because you didn't do it, then this person is wrong: i think that the layout work is something very personal and sharing is something up to the designer only.

so... now it's my turn on apologizing: i've definitely been too moralistic - my defect, i'm sorry for that

AmpBastler wrote:

Pruttelherrie wrote:

Intripped wrote:this should be ampbastler's complete schema and layout.
IC2: CD4016BE or 74HC14N ? this is not clear yet. someone could please confirm the interchangeability?

Good work!

The fabbed Dimehead board v1.0 uses a CD4016BE.
Also, the row of pots is ever so slightly staggered to get the pots in the right position.

schumann pll board 9V.jpg

Why you post my photo without permission and source?

You put it on facebook. have a word with yourself.

Here's my take on AmpBastler's layout, hope I didn't break any rools

sinner wrote:Here's my take on AmpBastler's layout, hope I didn't break any rools

artwork is subjective.. how can rules be broken?

rocklander wrote:

sinner wrote:Here's my take on AmpBastler's layout, hope I didn't break any rools

artwork is subjective.. how can rules be broken?

Alright, so I hope I didn't offend anyone...



































































































































...NOOOOT!

AmpBastler wrote:

Pruttelherrie wrote:

Intripped wrote:this should be ampbastler's complete schema and layout.
IC2: CD4016BE or 74HC14N ? this is not clear yet. someone could please confirm the interchangeability?

Good work!

The fabbed Dimehead board v1.0 uses a CD4016BE.
Also, the row of pots is ever so slightly staggered to get the pots in the right position.

schumann pll board 9V.jpg

Why you post my photo without permission and source?

To be honest, I paused a second or two to decide if I should post that picture or not, but then I realized that you posted it on facebook to show off a product that you were going to sell, based on somebody else's circuit. That, combined with your attitude in this thread made me not care about any rights on that photo.

Sinner's or Lacesensor's reply would do too, while being a bit more efficient!

Pruttelherrie wrote: Sinner's or Lacesensor's reply would do too, while being a bit more efficient!

efficient and OFF TOPIC

Does the circuit have to have a cmos quad opamp or can I use a tl074? Only one of the 4 opamps are used and the LM660cn is pretty hard to source.

I have the circuit breadboarded with the 74 and the 660. Try any
Opamp should be fine...

heads up to anyone that bought into the Shoebox Pill over at DIY it seems some or all of the pots wire backwards, so beware when populating / testing.

LaceSensor wrote:heads up to anyone that bought into the Shoebox Pill over at DIY it seems some or all of the pots wire backwards, so beware when populating / testing.

The pots being backwards is confirmed, and the divider section not working has a workaround. The workaround is as follows;

1) Cut the PCB trace between pins 2 and 15 on IC7.
2) Cut the PCB trace between pin 5 of IC4, and the COM pin of the Divider switch (SW2).
3) Run a jumper from pin 2 of IC7, to pin 5 of IC4.
4) Run a jumper from pin 15 of IC7, to the COM pin of the Divider switch (SW2).

The pots will have to be wired, instead of soldered directly. The rotary switches are OK.

Great demo, man. Makes me want to build one even more.

Got my vero version boxed. All in one version, PLL, Drone, and Momentary.











The Momentary section awaits the right switch. I ordered the wrong one. So far, it seems to perform as per the original Water Places unit.

I'll be breadboarding my Arpeggiator idea soon, and testing to see if it'll work. If so, it will be a plug-in module.

I'll try to get a video out tomorrow.

Outrageaous wiring extravaganza. Kudos.

Holy crap! Nice work there... WHAT a wiring job!!!

DAMN Dino!!!

Do you own stock in those flanged boxes??

Govmnt_Lacky wrote:DAMN Dino!!!

Do you own stock in those flanged boxes??

LOL!! Yeah... I should. I like them. A lot. I know they take up a bit of real estate, but I love the look of them.

goodness!!! goodness!!!! digi2t, that thing is great, you would post the ultimate layout of this??? it sounds that you make more changes you have in the circuit you post?? or I´M wrong????? thanks for this exiting project I´m tunned in it!!!! please continued your labour!!!! MANY THANKS for this inspiration!!!

Thank man! No real changes, except for the following info that I discovered today;

Don't be tempted to push the board voltage past +/-11.5VDC. The SN74HC14N can't hack it. I know that Water Places' unit was running at 11.8VDC, and I tried pushing it to 12VDC, but it fried. Considering that it was meant to only handle 2 to 6 VDC, it's amazing that it works at 11.5VDC. As a precaution, I'm running mine at 11VDC even. The KindaFuzzy unit reported 10.3VDC, so go with what you're comfortable with. I ran it at 11.5 for a few hours with no problems.

Also, try not touch the heatsinks of the voltage regulators together. I accidentally did on mine (please don't ask ), and it fried the regulator, sending the + voltage shooting up to 17VDC, and it fried most of the IC's. Not a good day in Diaperville. Thankfully, I had spares.

Part update - For some strange reason, I marked R9 as 110R, when in reality it's a 1K. I must have misread the bands the first time around, but I caught when I was studying some close-up pics tonight. I have to update the vero. Also, from pics I have of a third unit, it has two 1M resistors in series where R6 is, for 2M of resistance.

Everything is back under control now. I have the unit sounding exactly like Water Places' unit now, using the settings from my "PLL cops an Uglyface" video, my clone is spot on. Still trying to squeeze in some time for a video. Coming soon.