Hi guys, this is my first topic here and i need to ask you something. I've already searched everywhere but i didn't find anything.
I want to made a ts9 hand wired, like the ts808hw that ibanez did a while ago. I'm using this pcb layout and these wiring layout 1 & 2
The difference between ts9 and ts808 (i think) it's in R15 and R16, the ts9 uses 470R and 100k resistor instead of 100R and 10k, but i'm not sure. Can anyone tell me if i'm wrong?
The second question is about wiring: in the wiring layouts there are 4 cables that start from pcb: input, output, 9v and ground. In the pcb layout there is a VR (i don't know what is this) and 4 9v cables. Power cables can be easily soldered on the dc jack pin, but i have no idea what vr exit is and where it should be placed. LED is a problem too,
the 2nd layout says to solder it to the 9v cable, but the pcb layout says to solder the led with R23. I guess it's ok because R23 it's connected to 9v by 2 jumpers, but i'm not totally sure.
This is my second pedal and i don't speak english very well, i'm sorry if you can't understand something
Ibanez - TS-9-HW Handwired Tube Screamer
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roseblood11
- Tube Twister
One thing I DO understand: This doesn't work as color-by-numbers... 
Try to understand the schematic first, then understand the layout.
http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxfram.htm
Try to understand the schematic first, then understand the layout.
http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/TStech/tsxfram.htm
Why don't you check the Tonepad file for EL GRITON (TS's clone)???
Differences are shown clearly: a couple of resistors, one cap, and the clipping diodes direction...
This is one old version (not least, this one is what I've built several times...)
http://www.efektygitarowe.pl/ts_tube_sc ... reamer.pdf
This is the last version (I can't open the page in my browser, I don't know why...)
https://www.u-cursos.cl/usuario/125f006 ... reamer.pdf
The cap that is marked as EMPTY in both cases (TS808 & TS9) is some kind of prevention for oscilations within IC...
I mention this because I've read it somewhere, but I haven't experienced by my self.
And something else: don't forget that the Boss SD1 is another copy of this "unknown" design... THAT ONE CAP is 10nanofarads. You should check the other differences...
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/s ... rdrive.gif
Differences are shown clearly: a couple of resistors, one cap, and the clipping diodes direction...
This is one old version (not least, this one is what I've built several times...)
http://www.efektygitarowe.pl/ts_tube_sc ... reamer.pdf
This is the last version (I can't open the page in my browser, I don't know why...)
https://www.u-cursos.cl/usuario/125f006 ... reamer.pdf
The cap that is marked as EMPTY in both cases (TS808 & TS9) is some kind of prevention for oscilations within IC...
I mention this because I've read it somewhere, but I haven't experienced by my self.
And something else: don't forget that the Boss SD1 is another copy of this "unknown" design... THAT ONE CAP is 10nanofarads. You should check the other differences...
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/s ... rdrive.gif
On the other hand (I forgot to mention that in the last message... 
), VR is a variation of the voltage.
Usually, the V+ (in this case, 9V) goes the parts that work with 9V, but it goes to a 10k resistor too, splitting the voltage to the half, named VR (in this case, 4.5V). From VR, that voltage goes to the parts that work in 4.5, and to another 10k resistor and a 47u capacitor, both in parallel conected to the ground... Just like this:
For what I see in the P2P layuot you posted in the very first message, the VR shown in the lower right corner is the acutal VR point, so the other VR, in the middle-left side, should be connected directly to that first one VR mentioned before...
About the LED... LEDs always are connected to ground and to V+ (resistor in between). R23 is that resistor, so, you have to connect the other pin to GND, anyway. In this case, you put the pin in a switch, which will close the circuit of the LED, conecting the pin to ground when pressed/pushed... In the 2nd wiring layout (the one in the box) the ground of the INPUT jack is not connected with the other grounds (very wrong!). You should connect it with the other grounded zones, and (like shown), with the pin of the 3PDT (all of them with black wires...).
I hope it will help you...
), VR is a variation of the voltage.Usually, the V+ (in this case, 9V) goes the parts that work with 9V, but it goes to a 10k resistor too, splitting the voltage to the half, named VR (in this case, 4.5V). From VR, that voltage goes to the parts that work in 4.5, and to another 10k resistor and a 47u capacitor, both in parallel conected to the ground... Just like this:
For what I see in the P2P layuot you posted in the very first message, the VR shown in the lower right corner is the acutal VR point, so the other VR, in the middle-left side, should be connected directly to that first one VR mentioned before...
About the LED... LEDs always are connected to ground and to V+ (resistor in between). R23 is that resistor, so, you have to connect the other pin to GND, anyway. In this case, you put the pin in a switch, which will close the circuit of the LED, conecting the pin to ground when pressed/pushed... In the 2nd wiring layout (the one in the box) the ground of the INPUT jack is not connected with the other grounds (very wrong!). You should connect it with the other grounded zones, and (like shown), with the pin of the 3PDT (all of them with black wires...).
I hope it will help you...