Skreddy Mayonaise MKIII  [traced]

General documentation, gut shot, schematic links, ongoing circuit tracing, deep thoughts ... all about boutique stompboxes.
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mmolteratx
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Post by mmolteratx »

Skreddy wrote:
mmolteratx wrote:
Skreddy wrote:
mmolteratx wrote:Here's my layout (not verified, but I'm 99.99999% sure it's good). Note, absolutely zero commercial use allowed. If I find anyone selling these, I'll fly to your house and kick you in the nads. And you may or may not find yourself in trouble.

A few notes pertinent to the build:

Use the schematics linked to on the OSHPark page.
The board is designed to be used in conjunction with my 3PDT daughter board, which holds the main filter cap
Caps are all spaced for TDK FK28 MLCs, but any standard 5mm spaced caps should fit
Transistors are original SE4021s, but you can use anything really. Just check the pinout

[ Image ]

Muff - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/js3WRmMT
Switch - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Buk2PeKO
What's the lead spacing for those resistors? 12.5mm is what you'll want for 1/2 W CC's.
10mm I think. Was as big as I could go in a 1590B. Might redo it in a bit with 12.5mm.

Or make then stand-up and use a 125 for extra height.
No need to use stand up in a 125B, at least so far. Gonna have to test fit and see if it actually works here in a second before I start routing.

EDIT: Yep. Should fit just fine as is.

EDIT2:

Link to 1/2W - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/3Mnti15k

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Skreddy
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Post by Skreddy »

You're a great designer. Reminds me a little of Jack Deville's style.

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Skreddy
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Post by Skreddy »

Looks like the D*A*M Dope Priest layout would work too (albeit with lots more outboard wiring).
Image

Also, 3 tiny notes on Skreddy schematics, all of them:
1) I never use a diode to ground for power-supply polarity protection; I always use one in-line with the incoming 9v (a schottky, or in earlier units, a germanium).
2) I never use a 1M to ground at input for pop prevention. I always wire the stomp switch such that the input is grounded in bypass, which keeps the input cap drained and pop-free without the need to add more input loading.
3) I always use a 100 ohm resistor in-line with the incoming power supply, which works in conjunction with the 100uf filter cap as a low-pass filter. The LED supply comes directly from the incoming voltage, though; no in-line diode or 100 ohm resistor--just the current-limiting resistor and of course the switch which completes its path to ground.

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Cub
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Post by Cub »

Speaking of the Dope Priest, :hmmm: does anybody have any information that would help to fill in the blanks on sinner's schemo ?
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=19441&p=203678#p203732
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