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As for Octave Drone - here it is. Only things I can't see is disk capacitor value and that trace from 1M resistor cause it is behind the switch on the photo. I don't see why it's here - if it is pulldown resistor than why it is not connected to trace from Volume's lug 2. Anyway, the circuit works on a breadboard without it. I try differend caps for disk capacitor and stop on 4,7nF, but it'll be interesting to see the value of original. And where this copper trace leads too

Moonsun wrote:As for Octave Drone - here it is. Only things I can't see is disk capacitor value and that trace from 1M resistor cause it is behind the switch on the photo. I don't see why it's here - if it is pulldown resistor than why it is not connected to trace from Volume's lug 2. Anyway, the circuit works on a breadboard without it. I try differend caps for disk capacitor and stop on 4,7nF, but it'll be interesting to see the value of original. And where this copper trace leads too

Seppuku Octave Drone.png

And here is a verified vero layout based on Moonsun's trace
http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabbl ... _final.png

Here's my layouts for the Space Fuzz and Octave Drone. Heavily based on the original layouts, but cleaned up a lot and should fit in 1590Bs.

I just finished building storyboardist's layout. I used 2N2222A's and it works but has VERY low output and won't even come close to reaching unity gain. it's pretty muddy sounding too.
It doesn't appear that the original is like that in the video demos.

Moonsun wrote:As for Octave Drone - here it is. Only things I can't see is disk capacitor value and that trace from 1M resistor cause it is behind the switch on the photo. I don't see why it's here - if it is pulldown resistor than why it is not connected to trace from Volume's lug 2. Anyway, the circuit works on a breadboard without it. I try differend caps for disk capacitor and stop on 4,7nF, but it'll be interesting to see the value of original. And where this copper trace leads too

many thanks for your gallant efforts, moonsun. very much appreciated here (and your work on the fuzz overloader).
i messaged the owner of the octave drone (pics of which i posted earlier in this thread) re the missing component values last night. am hoping he will be able to fill in the blanks very soon, if he can. another good guy from ilf.

anyway, maybe that missing trace info will help with clarifying the bits that are common between the circuits, and may even help with the problem johnk mentions above. will be back as soon as. but am on it.

johnk wrote:I just finished building storyboardist's layout. I used 2N2222A's and it works but has VERY low output and won't even come close to reaching unity gain. it's pretty muddy sounding too.
It doesn't appear that the original is like that in the video demos.

I mention 2N2222 only for Space Fuzz. If you look to my incomplete trace here you'll see 5088. I don't know why storyboardist mention 2222 on layout pics he made.

johnk wrote:I just finished building storyboardist's layout. I used 2N2222A's and it works but has VERY low output and won't even come close to reaching unity gain. it's pretty muddy sounding too.
It doesn't appear that the original is like that in the video demos.

Space Fuzz? I'm not sure the Bazz fuss section diode is a 1N34 - Looks like a plain old 1N4148 to me, not sure if this would cause problems.

As I said before, I breadboard both Space Fuzz and Octave Drone.
For Octave Drone I use 5088, not 2N2222, sounds likely to vid.
For Space Fuzz I use 5088 (too noisy for me), 2N3904 (more good with noise, but less gain), 2N2222 (not 2N2222A, quietest, but even less gain). I personally like 2222.
Last stage in Space Fuzz in Bazz Fuss, yes, so it is possible to use Si or Ge. I like Ge cause it's less harsh and more grainy.

My bad. I guess I had 2N2222 on the brain leftover from laying out the Space Fuzz. John, let me know if you work out the kinks in the one you built.

I replaced the 2N2222A's with 5088's and it's much better now. it's still not s loud at I think that it should be so i'm going to replace the 1N34A with a 1N4148 next.
BTW, I also tried four different versions of the LM386N. the LM386N-1 (like in the original) is very noisey (just like the original pedal in the video) but if you use the LM386N-3 there's no noise at all since it gates all of it but still sounds the same.

Nocentelli wrote:

johnk wrote:I just finished building storyboardist's layout. I used 2N2222A's and it works but has VERY low output and won't even come close to reaching unity gain. it's pretty muddy sounding too.
It doesn't appear that the original is like that in the video demos.

Space Fuzz? I'm not sure the Bazz fuss section diode is a 1N34 - Looks like a plain old 1N4148 to me, not sure if this would cause problems.

rog's buzzbox (2x bazz fuss in one) uses both.



i don't have nocentelli's experience but they look 1418 to me. size and colour. but i know there are some chinese ebay sellers selling schottky-looking so-called 1n34 that look just like 1418, small and red/black.

so to consolidate thinking, it's rambler front end, bazz fuss (or double bazz fuzz a la rog buzz box)? anything else interesting happening?

btw, i was looking at the escobedo 'marginally better rambler' and it suggests a 500k and 1m diode to ground pots (either end of series diodes) as something to try for added tweakability. would they work as potential mods in the spacefuzz/octave drone? rambler doesn't involve any transistors so not sure if the diode trim would effect them doing their job.



finally, here's a longer and clearer clip of the octave drone being worked through its full range. may be useful for reference here. (cue 1000 angle-grinders grazing their way through rusty RSJs...)

Hi, the pics of the OctaveDrone are mine, I posted them on ILF board. Tabby reposted with permission and all... I can take a couple more pics of the guts this evening. Let me know what you need more detail of, and I'll open it back up after work and snap a few more. If there's numbers-parts I can confirm or include in the post, list that also. I have no electronics experience beyond wiring guitars and basses, and a couple minor projects, so make your questions for N00bs.

Hi! Thanks for the pics. If you be so kind to post a pic that shows a board fully from behind (where the copper trace is). On this pic posted before I cant see the part of it behind the switch.



And please look and tell what number you can see on this disc capacitor (it's lentil-like thingy on the left side jf the board).
Thanks in advance!

tabbycat wrote:i was looking at the escobedo 'marginally better rambler' and it suggests a 500k and 1m diode to ground pots (either end of series diodes) as something to try for added tweakability. would they work as potential mods in the spacefuzz/octave drone? rambler doesn't involve any transistors so not sure if the diode trim would effect them doing their job.

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I think the octave and trim pots might be useful additions. The 1M helps balance the levels of the opposite "polarity" signals to dial in a stronger octave. There is a great graphic showing how these sort of octave up effects work somewhere out there, but I can't find it so i did a quick shitty job in MS paint:
I didn't hear that much octave when I breadboarded it, might try again with these mods.

Octave Drone based on simple Rambler, not on "Marginally Better". "Marginally Better"s Octave control and 1M trim are simple voltage dividers adjusting gain of both inputs when guitar goes straght to input. With overdriven clipped signal from the first stage like in Octave Drone they're not as useful. Except for maybe Octave control, for having blend of plain distortion and octave up. Not me - this pedal planned as simple nasty NOISE octave up MADNESS, that's fine. Same for Space Fuzz, it just lost its flavor, when you reduce this octave up.

There's one value error in Space Fuzz layout made by storyboardist - Q2 emitter resistor must be 100 Ohm, not 10 Ohm. Anyway, it is great.

Thanks for the catch, Moonsun. Here's the updated layout.