freestompboxes.org

Gut shots:





all trannies are 2n5457
all ic's are tl072
trim is 100k
trajectory pot is 1MB
Velocity pot is 250kA
electros from left are 100uF, 10uF, 1uF, 10uF, and 10uF

i would get better pictures of the screening so we can get schem numbers, but my camera can't so much closer than this. we all together should be able to RE it, as everything except the SMD caps is labeled on the board. I'll try to work on it some, but i could use help. This thing is amazing sounding!

This is the new SMT version with those badd ass electro caps

seniorLoco wrote:This is the new SMT version with those badd ass electro caps

yes, but easily doable in basically the same size with regular components. and the sound totally makes it worth it if you did have to up the size a bit. what is wrong with the electros?

Oh wow cool! I've always wanted one of these. If you could take another shot a bit closer in, we could start hacking away at the values

Also here there is another thread that has a gut shot of an older model.
https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1090

better pics, i'll be able to work up a BOM for all except capacitors if someone can start schem tracing. oh and it is double sided, but the second side is pretty basic.
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... ure006.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e007-1.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e008-2.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e009-2.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e010-1.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e011-1.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e012-1.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e013-1.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... ure014.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... ure015.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e017-1.jpg
https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k42/ ... e018-1.jpg

also, i mislabeled the transistors. Q1 thru Q6 are 2n5457, but there is a Q7 on board that is some mystery transistor, almost the shape of a crystal.

I don't car what you say about the SMD, I've tried one of these and it is one of the best sounding modulation pedals I've ever tried.

teleman wrote:I don't car what you say about the SMD, I've tried one of these and it is one of the best sounding modulation pedals I've ever tried.

+1 hell yes.

Here is a start, might start on caps.....

Not sure if 2 or 3
R4- 470K
R5- 10K
R6- 10K
R7- 10K
R8- 10K
R9- 470K
r10- 470K
R11- 10K
R12- 10K
R13- 10K
R14- 10K
R15- 470K
R16- 10K
R17- 10K
R18- 10K
R19- 10K
R20- 470K
R21- 10K
R22- 10K
R23- 10K
R24- 10K
R25- 470K
Maybe an extra 27?
R27- 10K
R27- 10K
R28- 10K
R29- 10K
R30- 470K
R31- 10K
R32- 10K
R33- 10K
R34- 10K
R35- (Big ass pot)
R36- 10K
R37- B1M (pot)
R38- 10K
R39- 10K
R40- 10K
R41- 4.7M
R42- 4.7M
R43- 5.6M
R44- 5.6K
R45- 2.7K
R46- 33K
R47- 1.5K
R48- 3.3M***
R49- 150K
R50- 150K
R51- 150K
R52- 150K
R53- 6.8K
R54- A250K (pot)
R55- 1.5M
R56- 39K
R1s- 100K
R2s- 10K

Actually idk how to read smd caps , so could someone else take a look? You might just need to multimeter test them though.

possibly a modified version of a phase 45/90/100 for the phasing. i'm building a similar 8 stage phaser right now so my head is swimming with those resistor numbers...
6 stages here, though.

How is the battery holder attached to the box? I've been wondering how it is people glue those in place without them coming loose. It just seems to me that the constant flexing of the clip would break the bond. Alot of people seem to do it okay, so I'm just wondering how.

soulsonic wrote:How is the battery holder attached to the box? I've been wondering how it is people glue those in place without them coming loose. It just seems to me that the constant flexing of the clip would break the bond. Alot of people seem to do it okay, so I'm just wondering how.

I was thinking the same thing when i saw the guts
probably is just electro-soldered.

Matteo

soulsonic wrote:How is the battery holder attached to the box? I've been wondering how it is people glue those in place without them coming loose. It just seems to me that the constant flexing of the clip would break the bond. Alot of people seem to do it okay, so I'm just wondering how.

If you insert the battery into the clip and epoxy it down the clip is at it's widest flex point when the expoxy hardens. Take a loose clip, place battery in it and what what happens to the bottom side. As the battery is placed in it arches up slightly. If you've already got the arch going and the epoxy can form to it while hardening then there's less stress on that bond. Alternately you can just spread the clip open with your fingers before applying the epoxy.

it is attached with jb weld, and to be honest, while it is quite strong, i've never had jb weld hold over many removals and inserts.

I started working on writing out how it is layed out, but got bored pretty quick, here is what I have. Excuse the messiness, but it should give some people the basic idea of how to start it off.

R1 = 33k
R2 = 10k
R3 = 22k

that's all the important parts except the mystery transistor, caps, and the diodes. d2 is 1n4001, but i can't read d1

caps i don't know how to read on smd, since i have no markings that i can see

the mystery transistor is actually a bs170p mosfet from what i can tell.

r35, or the "big ass pot" you refer to is the 100k trimpot.

I think that if you have a multimeter you can test them with that.

BaLaClavaAa wrote:I think that if you have a multimeter you can test them with that.

you are thinking of resistors i think. i don't know of a cap setting on my DMM at least.

Hmmm mine does. On mine I go to the setting for resistors and then press select till I get nF, and I can measure caps. I'm not sure if they all have them, but I don't see why not because the probes are plugged into the same places as you would test for resistors. Which DMM do you have?

not all DMMs have capaticace testers. the cheap ones (like mine ) don't
when I've some extra cash I'm going o get one that does.