Colorsound Overdriver Problem - Help Needed
Hello Forum members!
So, I decided to build a Colorosund Overdriver but I am having some problems.
I am not getting that huge boost in volume that these boxes are known for, no Fuzz on 10 and the tonestack is very subtle. Apart from these problems the box sounds great (ahaha) tone wise.
Here's the layout that I used:
http://turretboard.knucklehead.dk/wp-co ... xxmods.pdf
And some values:
Transistors BC 109's
Q1
B= 2.28
C= 1.58
E= 3.07
Q2
B= 1.52
C= .001
E= 2.26
Q3
B= 2.01
C= 1.87
E= 2.68
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks!
So, I decided to build a Colorosund Overdriver but I am having some problems.
I am not getting that huge boost in volume that these boxes are known for, no Fuzz on 10 and the tonestack is very subtle. Apart from these problems the box sounds great (ahaha) tone wise.
Here's the layout that I used:
http://turretboard.knucklehead.dk/wp-co ... xxmods.pdf
And some values:
Transistors BC 109's
Q1
B= 2.28
C= 1.58
E= 3.07
Q2
B= 1.52
C= .001
E= 2.26
Q3
B= 2.01
C= 1.87
E= 2.68
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks!
- mictester
- Old Solderhand
Information
All your transistor voltages are very low. The fault is around Q2 - the collector should be around 4.8V
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"
Is the 1.8k resistor biasing Q2? If so, what value should I use to raise the voltages? Anything else I should keep in mind?mictester wrote:All your transistor voltages are very low. The fault is around Q2 - the collector should be around 4.8V
Thanks!
Ok, I raised the C voltage on TR2 to 3.4v still no Fuzz sound and with all the knobs on 10 my level is the same as when the pedal is off.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Any ideas?
Thanks!
- modman
- a d m i n
Information
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All I can say is that I don't endorse turretboard.org because they don't publish schematics, just layouts....
That's all fine if you understand electronics, but not for beginners.
Beginners building off layouts without schematics will never get beyond beginner stage.
Pick a layout + schematic that was published and verified on FSB if you don't want to end up being discouraged.
That's all fine if you understand electronics, but not for beginners.
Beginners building off layouts without schematics will never get beyond beginner stage.
Pick a layout + schematic that was published and verified on FSB if you don't want to end up being discouraged.
Please, support freestompboxes.org on Patreon for just 1 pcb per year! Or donate directly through PayPal
- Electric Warrior
- Diode Debunker
Not all of them. Some of them are rather high. It's the collector voltages that are low. With all the emitters measuring higher than the collectors there must be something way off. Two or three of the transistors may be installed incorrectly.mictester wrote:All your transistor voltages are very low. The fault is around Q2 - the collector should be around 4.8V
Having to trace a layout to find out what the mods are certainly is rather inconvenient....modman wrote:All I can say is that I don't endorse turretboard.org because they don't publish schematics, just layouts....
That's all fine if you understand electronics, but not for beginners.
Beginners building off layouts without schematics will never get beyond beginner stage.
Pick a layout + schematic that was published and verified on FSB if you don't want to end up being discouraged.
- poiureza
- Breadboard Brother
There are lots of differences with the stock schematic.
I see that Q2c is connected to ground only via the drive pot while there should be at the very least a 12K resistor and a 10µ cap in series as well.
So if you turn the drive fully down (or up depending on how you wired it) you get zero resistance to ground and thus 0 Volts at Q2c ...
That 12k resistor in turn does exist but it is actually put in parallel ?!! with the 10µF cap right before the tone section, which makes no sense to me
etc ...
I might be wrong but I think that your layout is worth crap
I see that Q2c is connected to ground only via the drive pot while there should be at the very least a 12K resistor and a 10µ cap in series as well.
So if you turn the drive fully down (or up depending on how you wired it) you get zero resistance to ground and thus 0 Volts at Q2c ...
That 12k resistor in turn does exist but it is actually put in parallel ?!! with the 10µF cap right before the tone section, which makes no sense to me
etc ...
I might be wrong but I think that your layout is worth crap
- Electric Warrior
- Diode Debunker
Maybe someone misinterpreted the schematic...poiureza wrote: That 12k resistor in turn does exist but it is actually put in parallel ?!! with the 10µF cap right before the tone section, which makes no sense to me
etc ...

Yes, I did.poiureza wrote:You did notice that Q2 is inverted in the vero right ?
ECB from top to bottom, while Q1 and Q3 are BCE
I checked the transistors and they are installed correctly. But, I also noticed if I push the board down making contact to the enclosure, Q2 collector goes all the way up to 5V but I get no sound. Maybe I am having ground's issues?
Last edited by studio1203 on 21 Mar 2017, 18:09, edited 1 time in total.
It looks like, from the schematic provided by Electric Warrior (thank you BTW) that Colorsound didn't use that 12k resistor for the Overdriver. Should I remove it?poiureza wrote:There are lots of differences with the stock schematic.
I see that Q2c is connected to ground only via the drive pot while there should be at the very least a 12K resistor and a 10µ cap in series as well.
So if you turn the drive fully down (or up depending on how you wired it) you get zero resistance to ground and thus 0 Volts at Q2c ...
That 12k resistor in turn does exist but it is actually put in parallel ?!! with the 10µF cap right before the tone section, which makes no sense to me
etc ...
I might be wrong but I think that your layout is worth crap
- Electric Warrior
- Diode Debunker
It's there. It's a 10k in some units and it's connected a little differently in the Overdriver, but it's there. Don't remove it, wire it up correctly.