freestompboxes.org

hello everyone guys
do you think it is possible to make this pedal true bypass?

AAntonio wrote:hello everyone guys
do you think it is possible to make this pedal true bypass?

Ofc you can. But you are gonna lose dem trails.

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:hello everyone guys
do you think it is possible to make this pedal true bypass?

Ofc you can. But you are gonna lose dem trails.

I don't even know where to start.
the wiring diagram is not found.

AAntonio wrote:

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:hello everyone guys
do you think it is possible to make this pedal true bypass?

Ofc you can. But you are gonna lose dem trails.

I don't even know where to start.
the wiring diagram is not found.

Well, the pedal base design is quite complicated. Redesigning it for TBP is both still achievable and pontless.
Just imagine the base board having 5 power buses. 5 rails, Carl.

Why on earth would one decide to convert it to TBP? Tonesuck? Nah.

Still, your current course should look something like this:
You cut the traces coming from the physical I/Os, then take couple of small signal relays (momentary, i suppose) and wire them them as a bypasses for both signal chains (mono/stereo). Then you feed both relays' FX loops back to the base board. There is no need for drilling a hole for a 3pdt and cutting the control circuitry, just omit FET switching stage on the main board and and rewire controlling signal to switch on/off previously installed relays.

And, BAM! - TBP achieved, while keeping most most of the base circuitry intact. Not mentioning that the insides now look like a total mess of wires and hot glue. Btw, using relays will bump pedal's current draw a bit (~30-60mA).

There's no easy guide on how to do this.
Learn circuit design.

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:hello everyone guys
do you think it is possible to make this pedal true bypass?

Ofc you can. But you are gonna lose dem trails.

I don't even know where to start.
the wiring diagram is not found.

Well, the pedal base design is quite complicated. Redesigning it for TBP is both still achievable and pontless.
Just imagine the base board having 5 power buses. 5 rails, Carl.

Why on earth would one decide to convert it to TBP? Tonesuck? Nah.

Still, your current course should look something like this:
You cut the traces coming from the physical I/Os, then take couple of small signal relays (momentary, i suppose) and wire them them as a bypasses for both signal chains (mono/stereo). Then you feed both relays' FX loops back to the base board. There is no need for drilling a hole for a 3pdt and cutting the control circuitry, just omit FET switching stage on the main board and and rewire controlling signal to switch on/off previously installed relays.

And, BAM! - TBP achieved, while keeping most most of the base circuitry intact. Not mentioning that the insides now look like a total mess of wires and hot glue. Btw, using relays will bump pedal's current draw a bit (~30-60mA).

There's no easy guide on how to do this.
Learn circuit design.

quite difficult

What about building a loop box ?
http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/loopers/

It has an input and an output so TB-ing is possible. In essence it means building the contents of a TB box inside your pedal.

to tell the truth the pedal doesn't work anymore and it doesn't even turn on the led, for this reason I wanted to try to eliminate the bypass part to give the circuit directly the 9v and try to find the fault, a bad idea?

Photos

AAntonio wrote:to tell the truth the pedal doesn't work anymore and it doesn't even turn on the led, for this reason I wanted to try to eliminate the bypass part to give the circuit directly the 9v and try to find the fault, a bad idea?

This is not how it's done.

You see, the pedal might be disfunctional due, lets say, power outage (+3.2v) feeding the logic circuitry. This power rail is also used by DSP effect block. So, if we convert the pedal to true bypas it still might not work, since there is no power present do feed the DSP.

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:to tell the truth the pedal doesn't work anymore and it doesn't even turn on the led, for this reason I wanted to try to eliminate the bypass part to give the circuit directly the 9v and try to find the fault, a bad idea?

This is not how it's done.

You see, the pedal might be disfunctional due, lets say, power outage (+3.2v) feeding the logic circuitry. This power rail is also used by DSP effect block. So, if we convert the pedal to true bypas it still might not work, since there is no power present do feed the DSP.

I understood
what can i check and how?
the voltages?

AAntonio wrote:

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:to tell the truth the pedal doesn't work anymore and it doesn't even turn on the led, for this reason I wanted to try to eliminate the bypass part to give the circuit directly the 9v and try to find the fault, a bad idea?

This is not how it's done.

You see, the pedal might be disfunctional due, lets say, power outage (+3.2v) feeding the logic circuitry. This power rail is also used by DSP effect block. So, if we convert the pedal to true bypas it still might not work, since there is no power present do feed the DSP.

I understood
what can i check and how?
the voltages?

Well, you take your time, get datasheets for logic chips (for both MCUs, external memory and DSPs), find their VCC-in pins and check voltage with your DMM. This is only the beginning and it's easiest part.

Good luck....

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... p5MrE4fMhT

roseblood11 wrote:Good luck....

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... p5MrE4fMhT

many Thanks

I believe that Pin 1 and 3 of Diode D3 is in short
I find it difficult to unsolder it, I have a normal welder,
it would serve the air

AAntonio wrote:I believe that Pin 1 and 3 of Diode D3 is in short
I find it difficult to unsolder it, I have a normal welder,
it would serve the air

Did you use diode measuring function on your DMM?

In one position it should indicate voltage drop (in some DMMs without such function it'd indicate a shortage)
In the other position (if you swap leads) the diode would not conduct and your DMM will show close to infinite resistance

You need to swap your leads when measuring to be sure there is a shortage, if you did not do that before.

plush wrote:

AAntonio wrote:I believe that Pin 1 and 3 of Diode D3 is in short
I find it difficult to unsolder it, I have a normal welder,
it would serve the air

Did you use diode measuring function on your DMM?

In one position it should indicate voltage drop (in some DMMs without such function it'd indicate a shortage)
In the other position (if you swap leads) the diode would not conduct and your DMM will show close to infinite resistance

You need to swap your leads when measuring to be sure there is a shortage, if you did not do that before.

yes I used the diode measurement function.
I exchanged the cables, see photo
and in both cases there is the beep of the DMM

now I don't have this component.
can I do some tests in other ways?

AAntonio wrote:now I don't have this component.
can I do some tests in other ways?

Just curious, why did you decide to start with this particular component?