freestompboxes.org

m0rk wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 09:54 dude was posting some of his own designs, some cool stuff, probably decided to monetize them somehow and took them down from this board.

ok i see,lucky the ones who catch it!

im on my way of building one of these things

yeah, stick to the "original" Suhr design I guess, since everyone praises it so much.
but to be honest, personally to me this is a kind of snake oil. I recorded my amp's direct output with a dummy resistor load plugged into the speaker socket and then with the speaker (reactive load) itself. yes, there is a difference, but it's really hard to tell what is what, and I can't tell which is better anyway. so I dunno, I'm disappointed... all this marketing BS...

When you "... recorded my amp's direct output with a dummy resistor load plugged into the speaker socket ...", what kind of speaker sim did you use, IR or something else perhaps?

An alternative for this Suhr reactive load is the Aiken Amps reactive speaker load design:
http://www.aikenamps.com/index.php/desi ... d-emulator
https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index ... d.1072793/

for my experiment I used one of OwnHammers IR's from the FMAN pack.
I didn't say that Suhr is bad or something, I just pointed out that the difference between a resistive and a reactive load is not so much of a big deal.

m0rk wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 09:54 dude was posting some of his own designs, some cool stuff, probably decided to monetize them somehow and took them down from this board.

Nah, he just lost his cool in a silly debate with me over DSP modeling, got butthurted for no reason and decided to leave FSB, taking all the contribution away with him. Apparently, I'm a very toxic person and to be blamed for this.

yeah alright, but he still commented later on in this thread, which means he still gives a sh about this, about other people who could benefit from information posted here

floris wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 16:11 An alternative for this Suhr reactive load is the Aiken Amps reactive speaker load design:
http://www.aikenamps.com/index.php/desi ... d-emulator
https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index ... d.1072793/

yes i have seen these,i will go for thegearpage values

I finished my project following the values ​​given in the diagram except for the power resistors where I used 3 resistors of 47 ohm in parallel. now in connecting the fan after the rectification diode and the 80 ohm resistor I find about 60 volts across the smoothing capacitor. now I was wondering if having changed the attenuation values ​​I also have to resize the resistor for the fan. Thanks for your suggestions

plush wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 19:10

m0rk wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 09:54 dude was posting some of his own designs, some cool stuff, probably decided to monetize them somehow and took them down from this board.

Nah, he just lost his cool in a silly debate with me over DSP modeling, got butthurted for no reason and decided to leave FSB, taking all the contribution away with him. Apparently, I'm a very toxic person and to be blamed for this.

That's your side of the story. I'm glad he removed his content. I wish I would have downloaded it first, but he showed himself some self respect by removing it. Here is a guy who is doing PROFESSIONAL level work showing us all how to do it. All we had to do was sit back and enjoy the content. But, no Plush had to get in there with his superior intellect. What was your point?

I already gave you kind words so you could back away from this Plush. Go look at your projects Plush. How are they doing? Do you build and share at the level that xbearxu was doing? If not, maybe you are a keyboard warrior that could spend more time soldering and less time trying to be right on the internet. This digital vs analog vs tubes is an exhausting crusade.

plush wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 19:10

m0rk wrote: ↑17 Mar 2021, 09:54 dude was posting some of his own designs, some cool stuff, probably decided to monetize them somehow and took them down from this board.

Nah, he just lost his cool in a silly debate with me over DSP modeling, got butthurted for no reason and decided to leave FSB, taking all the contribution away with him. Apparently, I'm a very toxic person and to be blamed for this.

One does not preclude another.

bmxguitarsbmx wrote: ↑20 Mar 2021, 21:49 [...]
That's your side of the story. I'm glad he removed his content. I wish I would have downloaded it first, but he showed himself some self respect by removing it. Here is a guy who is doing PROFESSIONAL level work showing us all how to do it. All we had to do was sit back and enjoy the content. But, no Plush had to get in there with his superior intellect. What was your point?

I already gave you kind words so you could back away from this Plush. Go look at your projects Plush. How are they doing? Do you build and share at the level that xbearxu was doing? If not, maybe you are a keyboard warrior that could spend more time soldering and less time trying to be right on the internet. This digital vs analog vs tubes is an exhausting crusade.

Dude, please refrain yourself from flame wars here. On another note, I looked at your posts and by your own logic, you "could spend more time soldering and less time trying to be right on the internet". Yes, this forum is a cruel, dictatorial environment and many of its native non-believers will question mystical speeches. This is all right, as are the mystical speeches themselves. Get used to it.

My apologies Plush.

You are right The G. Thanks for calling me out bud

ok guys back to the project

is this transformer for output overkill? or it will be a good to include?

https://www.banzaimusic.com/lehle-transformer-hz-l.html

It looks like a very good transformer and work well for the output but I think it is overkill.
The MZ-L one from Lehle is cheaper and will also work fine I think:
https://www.banzaimusic.com/lehle-transformer-mz-l.html
I would use an even cheaper one like this: https://www.thomann.de/intl/monacor_ltr110.htm
The one used in the Suhr load looks pretty cheap to me but probably works just fine, something like this:
https://www.thomann.de/intl/neutrik_nte ... trager.htm
For guitar there is no need for super high quality because the frequency response is limited, no extended bass or treble.

so the first parts arrived,resistors,el.cap etc.
next is the inductors but im a little confused about the wire diameter should i go with 1mm or 1.4mm wire

should the big inductor be 1mm and the small 1.4mm ?

any info?

https://www.banzaimusic.com/Mundorf-MCo ... -10mH.html

https://www.banzaimusic.com/Mundorf-MCo ... -56mH.html

I would like to know the same, about the wire diameter of the coils... I guess you should take DC resistance and the max current that goes through it into account.
From:
https://www.reddit.com/r/diytubes/comme ... _an_aiken/
"The current rating of the inductor is mostly influenced by its own DC resistance. You can use a smaller gauge inductor as long as you factor in its DCR and reduce the main resistor's value accordingly. Most of the signal will be going through the capacitor past the resonance peak so you'll never actually see 3A in there unless you're running a 60Hz sine wave."
"I still wouldn't go with an inductor that uses wire thinner than 18ga."
I think that 18ga means 18 AWG which about 1mm diameter.

Btw, is that electrolitic capacitor you bought a bipolar one?

Admittedly this is just a prototype. One thing I can confirm is the need for non conductive screws as the induction will literally make the screws pop out of their holes if they’re not tightened enough. I’ll make my story brief. I’m an engineer. Years ago I purchased the Two Notes Torpedo to do a solo album and wasn’t extremely impressed. I joined a new band quickly thereafter and needed stage worthy guitars so I returned it and bought them. Before I returned it I did open it up and was surprised how pathetic looking the internals were. Decided I should just make my own for what seemed like 100 bucks worth of parts. I studied the Aiken Amps design and developed my own simulating it in LT Spice. For a few years I gave up on the idea and when the pandemic hit I decided to just buy the Suhr reactive load. It was the last one that anyone had as production had halted and all the others were bought up. UPS destroyed it in the mail and dented it beyond repair. So I decided to take it apart and reverse engineer it before I returned it to get my money back. I too thought that the transformer was wimpy so I called Jensen and they suggested the model I used based on my design. I was google searching for something completely unrelated when I came across this post and I found it completely ironic. Not sure how long I’ll keep this up here because I know I have a money maker, but I’ll keep it open for questions.

thank you thats a nice bulid

although the photos doesnt give us the info about the diameter wire of the inductors

anyway i will go for 1mm for the small air core inductor and 1,3 for the big inductor

The they’re the same as the Suhr. 18 AWG. Don’t buy that Earse garbage. The bobbin they wind it on is what broke on my Suhr and the one I got for my build was almost broken in the mail.

Another thing I should get out there is that, yes, the transformer is a bit overkill. Originally I thought that the reason Suhr did this was because they were trying to isolate the voltage divider from the input of whatever you’re plugging it into because this could affect the peak impedance of the high end part of the reactive load After timeless experimentation I found this to be true. It also sweetens the sound as if you were plugging into a Neve preamp. It also makes the amp dead silent when not playing. Zero noise floor. However, when I plugged the parallel out directly into my recording interface with my 120 watt amp the signal arrives at the same -12db that it does from the line out post transformer. Therefore. If you turn the line level all the way up at the interface it won’t affect the sound and you’ll arrive at -12 db.

floris wrote: ↑09 Apr 2021, 14:02 Btw, is that electrolitic capacitor you bought a bipolar one?

no it is polarised...oops