What size pilot hole for 5E3 chassis?
- KHELSTROM
- Solder Soldier
I got a 5E3 chassis from mojo tone and there are no holes in it for mounting the board. The screws I'm using are the standard fender size screws which I bought from ampwares. If anyone could tell me what size pilot hole needs to be drilled I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
Thanks
- modman
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I wouldn't start drilling until you have received all the hardware. Why drill a hole before you can fill it? (KHELSTROM wrote:I got a 5E3 chassis from mojo tone and there are no holes in it for mounting the board. The screws I'm using are the standard fender size screws which I bought from ampwares. If anyone could tell me what size pilot hole needs to be drilled I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
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- noelgrassy
- Resistor Ronker
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I see modman knows about Ampwares' delightful shipping history.
A #6 wood screw, if that's the item in question, uses a 1/16" drill bit
for making a pilot hole into soft woods i.e. Pine or Alder.
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- KHELSTROM
- Solder Soldier
Thanks guys but let me clarify. The screw I'm talking about is the one that holds the fiberboard to the chrome plated steel chassis. I ordered it from ampwares and actually received it!
I'm not sure what number screw it is but the length of the threaded part is 3/8" long, the thread spacing is 16 threads per inch and the diameter of the threaded part is 1/8" at it's widest point by the head.
Thanks
Thanks
- noelgrassy
- Resistor Ronker
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- my favorite amplifier: MOTS Magnatone & Trainwreck
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Sounds like you might have a "machine screw", but you don't mention the companion nuts for
the screws. I'd guess Fender saved a shitload of labor by using screws known as "sheet metal"
screws. Is there a pointy tip opposite the end with the screw head. A good rule of thumb for their pilot
hole diameter is use a drill no larger than the screw's center that has the threads cut into it. i.e.
The part where light doesn't pass through when looking at the screw's profile vertically. The
drill bit is no wider than this opaque area. Don't over tighten these screws as they will happily
strip out the flimsy hole.
Sorry for my English, I went to public school.
the screws. I'd guess Fender saved a shitload of labor by using screws known as "sheet metal"
screws. Is there a pointy tip opposite the end with the screw head. A good rule of thumb for their pilot
hole diameter is use a drill no larger than the screw's center that has the threads cut into it. i.e.
The part where light doesn't pass through when looking at the screw's profile vertically. The
drill bit is no wider than this opaque area. Don't over tighten these screws as they will happily
strip out the flimsy hole.
Sorry for my English, I went to public school.
Copyright does not protect facts, ideas, systems, or methods of operation, although it may protect the way these things are expressed. US Copyright Office
- noelgrassy
- Resistor Ronker
Information
- Posts: 388
- Joined: 28 Nov 2007, 02:43
- my favorite amplifier: MOTS Magnatone & Trainwreck
- Completed builds: Tonebender Mk II w/ 3 OC75's, Burns BuzzAround w/NKT 275,Rangemaster w/ OC44, Fuzz Face w/ SKS363's, CJOD, Harmonic Percolator w/2N404A & 2N3635(vintage correct box,sliding pots, 1%glass resistors),Stack-O-Dimes & Whipple Wahs,
- Location: Vacuum Tube Valley, Cali
- Has thanked: 11 times
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Terrific!
My description was chock full of words but I didn't know if my
intentions were being conveyed. Now if I'd have illustrated it, I wouldn't
have thought twice about it's meaning. Ah, the English language.
My description was chock full of words but I didn't know if my
intentions were being conveyed. Now if I'd have illustrated it, I wouldn't
have thought twice about it's meaning. Ah, the English language.
Copyright does not protect facts, ideas, systems, or methods of operation, although it may protect the way these things are expressed. US Copyright Office