Zvex - Box of Rock [traced]
Well, I managed to build Madbeans wonderful version of the BoR, but I can't find any hint at how to wire the boost switch. Since I'm still a noob at building pedals (only done 3 yet), can anyone give me a tip?
My logic says me to wire input 1 to the input jack, and output 2 to the output jack. Then wire output 1 to input 2, with a 3pdt to connect those two, and in bypass stand to connect output 1 directly to the output jack. Am I thinking the right way?
Or am I terribly wrong
My logic says me to wire input 1 to the input jack, and output 2 to the output jack. Then wire output 1 to input 2, with a 3pdt to connect those two, and in bypass stand to connect output 1 directly to the output jack. Am I thinking the right way?
Or am I terribly wrong
LOL, take a look at this, I wired my BOR wfollowing this diagram and works perfectly:Staon wrote:Well, I managed to build Madbeans wonderful version of the BoR, but I can't find any hint at how to wire the boost switch. Since I'm still a noob at building pedals (only done 3 yet), can anyone give me a tip?
My logic says me to wire input 1 to the input jack, and output 2 to the output jack. Then wire output 1 to input 2, with a 3pdt to connect those two, and in bypass stand to connect output 1 directly to the output jack. Am I thinking the right way?
Or am I terribly wrong
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf ... wiring.pdf
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2009, 22:30
that looks about right ,,,!!! congrats!!! i been using general guitar's offboard wiring with all the pedals i made so far and they work great ,,.
i think ws should stick to that one Lol !!!
take care
i think ws should stick to that one Lol !!!
take care
- lynessmy
- Breadboard Brother
was wondering if DISTORTRON, the RED pedal with BIG DISTORTRON word in white color arranged in rainbow shape = BOR without the BOOST?
i saw the DISTROTRON ENGINE beside the boost word in BOX OF ROCK vertex version.
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/prod ... =350849622
What is the HI/LO Gain switches? What is the sub 1-2-3 is doing inside the schematics?
i saw the DISTROTRON ENGINE beside the boost word in BOX OF ROCK vertex version.
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/prod ... =350849622
What is the HI/LO Gain switches? What is the sub 1-2-3 is doing inside the schematics?
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2009, 22:30
hey i was looking at the zvex distortion that you mention and it seems to be the same as the bor but with out the sho boost and mods for hi/low mods and the subs ..i would like to have the schematic and if its lke the bor maybe add those mods and see how it reacts ..
anyway i havent finished the bor i got the pcb printed and etched i bought a black and white laser printer and it rocks clean !!! no more running to kinkos! but i have not gotten my transistors yet .. i buid the valvecaster for now that was fun !!
anyway i havent finished the bor i got the pcb printed and etched i bought a black and white laser printer and it rocks clean !!! no more running to kinkos! but i have not gotten my transistors yet .. i buid the valvecaster for now that was fun !!
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2009, 22:30
here is my valve caster the paint sucks on the side but its ok cause imm adding pices of cherry finished wood and its gona look ok , i wasnt going to do much with this project at first but i decided to go all the way to learn some more lol !!
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- Joined: 28 Sep 2009, 01:46
I'll probably start this build within the next two weeks, so I was wondering if anybody had replaced the SHO boost with soulsonic's Crackle Not Okay boost. If I build this pedal I'd rather do the Crackle Not Okay but I'm not really sure how it'd sound with the distortion.
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mmm i been thinking about the sho this week , i think im gona give it a try . i finally got the bs 170's that i needed so im gona jump on it this weekend for sure.
on madbean's layout the two 5 k pots are labeled 5kc , what does the "C" stand for ? am I missing something i dont know?
on madbean's layout the two 5 k pots are labeled 5kc , what does the "C" stand for ? am I missing something i dont know?
- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
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"C" means Reverse Log taper. You can substitute a standard linear taper and it will still work fine.delaystomper wrote:mmm i been thinking about the sho this week , i think im gona give it a try . i finally got the bs 170's that i needed so im gona jump on it this weekend for sure.
on madbean's layout the two 5 k pots are labeled 5kc , what does the "C" stand for ? am I missing something i dont know?
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2009, 22:30
thank you friend . im just about to start building it and then stoped right at that point so i came back to check on that question and voila!! the answer
thanks a lot !!!! happy building to all!!
thanks a lot !!!! happy building to all!!
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2009, 22:30
another question :
do i have to change the wiring if i substitute with a regular pot?
what would the wiring be?
thanks
do i have to change the wiring if i substitute with a regular pot?
what would the wiring be?
thanks
- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
images of my design and art work.
hy ,
my bassplayer loves the distortion/overdrive sound of my box of rock clone...
i have no serious expirience with technical things like constructing stompboxes, but i've buildt the BOR-kit developt by mek (uk-electronics)
and i think if someone could please tell me, which caps should be changed for good bassresponse / using an electric-bassguitar i would be able to get it done.
i don't know how to count the cabs / resistors or tranies, and the kit is without a schem... so please would you please take for example the krankosaurus-schem the parts are numbered.. i'll try to post the schem in this post...
sorry for these long phrases and my stumbelin' words
homesick
or please send the schem that you use to explain in your post?
thanks
my bassplayer loves the distortion/overdrive sound of my box of rock clone...
i have no serious expirience with technical things like constructing stompboxes, but i've buildt the BOR-kit developt by mek (uk-electronics)
and i think if someone could please tell me, which caps should be changed for good bassresponse / using an electric-bassguitar i would be able to get it done.
i don't know how to count the cabs / resistors or tranies, and the kit is without a schem... so please would you please take for example the krankosaurus-schem the parts are numbered.. i'll try to post the schem in this post...
sorry for these long phrases and my stumbelin' words
homesick
or please send the schem that you use to explain in your post?
thanks
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- Krankosaurusparts.pdf
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sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but looking at the vero on the first page. are the green caps electrolytic and the red caps film? this will be my first project so i just want to make sure i get everything right.
- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
you can see the values in the schematics.sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but looking at the vero on the first page. are the green caps electrolytic and the red caps film? this will be my first project so i just want to make sure i get everything right.
i did some box of rock that sounds amazing, and a bit similar at the original.
i left some attachments.
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- pnp con jumper mods.pdf
- (128.67 KiB) Downloaded 398 times
I'm getting a very loud hum on the boost side.
It was working fine last night, but then the 3pdt snapped off when I was boxing it up, so I wired in a new 3pdt switch. Then the problem started. I've checked all joints and wiring on the switch and it looks fine. I resoldered the joints on the switch--still hums. Could there be something wrong with the switch?
The overdrive is working great--very quiet and sounds great. The bypass is also working great. But when I switch to the boost, I get a very loud hum. The signal gets through just as it should, and the boost works as it should, just with the hum. I've checked all my joints and wiring several times, and everything looks good. I checked the output cap, and it's fine. Checked all grounds--looks fine. Swapped transistor--fine.
I used Igloo's vero layout, and GGG's wiring layout.
Could someone give me a hand?
It was working fine last night, but then the 3pdt snapped off when I was boxing it up, so I wired in a new 3pdt switch. Then the problem started. I've checked all joints and wiring on the switch and it looks fine. I resoldered the joints on the switch--still hums. Could there be something wrong with the switch?
The overdrive is working great--very quiet and sounds great. The bypass is also working great. But when I switch to the boost, I get a very loud hum. The signal gets through just as it should, and the boost works as it should, just with the hum. I've checked all my joints and wiring several times, and everything looks good. I checked the output cap, and it's fine. Checked all grounds--looks fine. Swapped transistor--fine.
I used Igloo's vero layout, and GGG's wiring layout.
Could someone give me a hand?
Sorry for the quality. All I have is my webcam. The two solder joints up top do not have cavities, that's a reflection. Let me know if additional pics would help. Thank you.
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- rasta_maleek
- Resistor Ronker
a great job but a little octopussy .