It should be up there. I posted it up in January '08.95strat wrote:Ahh, that's it. Is it still up?soulsonic wrote:You are probably thinking about the step-by-step tutorial I did of Analogguru's JFET booster.95strat wrote:Hey Soulsonic,
Am I crazy or did you have a photo tutorial of the "Crackle NOT Okay!" on your blog? If so I can't find it. If not I must be dreaming.
Soul Sonic - Crackle NOT Okay! [documentation]
- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
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"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
Thanks SS. I'm trying my hand at creating a PCB of CNOK in Eagle. My first attempt of creating something from a schematic. I'll let you know how it goes.soulsonic wrote:It should be up there. I posted it up in January '08.95strat wrote:Ahh, that's it. Is it still up?soulsonic wrote:You are probably thinking about the step-by-step tutorial I did of Analogguru's JFET booster.95strat wrote:Hey Soulsonic,
Am I crazy or did you have a photo tutorial of the "Crackle NOT Okay!" on your blog? If so I can't find it. If not I must be dreaming.
Alright, this is my first ever attempt at creating anything in Eagle so please be kind. This is not yet confirmed, but the layout should match Soul Sonic's schematic. My first layout was designed around mounting the board to the pot, but not sure it will fit. Anyway, here's what I have so far.


Thanks to Martin for sharing the design and helping me with the layout.


Thanks to Martin for sharing the design and helping me with the layout.
- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
Information
oh wait, the +9v pad is connected to the wrong diode!
Sorry, I completely missed that before.
Sorry, I completely missed that before.
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
It's weird, the schematic seems fine. The +9v is running into D1, but when I got to the board it's not there. Am I missing something?soulsonic wrote:oh wait, the +9v pad is connected to the wrong diode!
Sorry, I completely missed that before.

- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
Information
yeah, that looks alright. good job!
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
Thinking about trying to put this in a guitar so I added some enhancements that were discussed for in this thread plus a bypass switch. Did I forget anything or can I remove any parts. Also can a 500K push/pull pot be substituted for VR1? What about Soulsonic's vero board calling out C1 as a .15uF cap instead of .1uF does it matter?


- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
Information
Switching power with the bypass switch isn't a good idea. It is almost sure to make a terrible noise when switching the effect on. Better would be to use the DPDT for a fulll bypass so the effect doesn't load the bypassed signal. Most people use a 3PDT and add an LED indicator as well.
The way the DIP switch looks arranged with different biasing networks, it appears that the unused resistors will always be loading the Drain and potentially shunting current - I could see this possibly causing bias problems, especially in instances where the higher value resistors (especially the 10M) would be selected.
I prefer to use 150n for the input cap, though whether you would hear a difference depends mostly on the values chosen for the biasing resistors.
You can use 500k for the Gain control, but again, the best choice in value is dependent on the value of biasing resistors used. I use a 1M Anti-Log taper with 2M2 biasing resistors and that works well for me.
The way the DIP switch looks arranged with different biasing networks, it appears that the unused resistors will always be loading the Drain and potentially shunting current - I could see this possibly causing bias problems, especially in instances where the higher value resistors (especially the 10M) would be selected.
I prefer to use 150n for the input cap, though whether you would hear a difference depends mostly on the values chosen for the biasing resistors.
You can use 500k for the Gain control, but again, the best choice in value is dependent on the value of biasing resistors used. I use a 1M Anti-Log taper with 2M2 biasing resistors and that works well for me.
omni wrote:Thinking about trying to put this in a guitar so I added some enhancements that were discussed for in this thread plus a bypass switch. Did I forget anything or can I remove any parts. Also can a 500K push/pull pot be substituted for VR1? What about Soulsonic's vero board calling out C1 as a .15uF cap instead of .1uF does it matter?
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
Information
No, this would limit the maximum amount of gain. It would cut it in half. The gain is determined by the ratio of the gain control to the feedback resistors. If you want to use a 500k pot, you should probably just stick to 1M, or possibly 500k, resistors. I don't remember if 500k sounded any good for feedback/biasing... it should probably be ok, but it definitely sounds brighter with the higher values. The lowest I've gone is 100k biasing resistors with a 100k gain pot, but that needed a buffer in front of it to sound any good.omni wrote:Would a 500k resistor in series with VR1 pin 3 give me the same results as a 1m pot?
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
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- Joined: 18 May 2009, 01:34
Alright, my first attempt at a simple vero layout. Only one trace cut....YAY! Can anyone confirm if this is correct?


- soulsonic
- Old Solderhand
Information
It looks like you have the Source and Gate pins swapped.
"Analog electronics in music is dead. Analog effects pedal design is a dead art." - Fran
- himister
- Resistor Ronker
I've been waiting for pcb transfer file for layout posted earlier....didn't have patience to wait for so I had to redraw for myself and I'll share it here. I must say, BIG thanks Martin for this little tweaked fellow.
Thanks to 95strat for layout design.
Cheers.
Pcb and layout:
Thanks to 95strat for layout design.
Cheers.
Pcb and layout:
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- Joined: 18 May 2009, 01:34
oops, so I did. Corrected it and it should be okay now. Those MOSFET diagrams are confusing to me for some reason.soulsonic wrote:It looks like you have the Source and Gate pins swapped.
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- Joined: 28 Sep 2009, 01:46
Hey guys, I'm using a 1M reverse audio pot for the circuit along with 2M2 resistors for R1 and R2. Will this configuration give me the largest amount of gain? Right now it doesn't seem like the boost at max is loud enough for me and I was wondering what I could do to make the max boost louder. I know that R1&R2 are related to P1 as far as boost goes, but I'm not sure if they're inversely or directly related.
BTW: Great circuit Soulsonic, this was my first build and I'm totally loving it.
BTW: Great circuit Soulsonic, this was my first build and I'm totally loving it.
- DimebuGG
- Solder Soldier
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themainevent wrote:Hey guys, I'm using a 1M reverse audio pot for the circuit along with 2M2 resistors for R1 and R2. Will this configuration give me the largest amount of gain? Right now it doesn't seem like the boost at max is loud enough for me and I was wondering what I could do to make the max boost louder.
BTW: Great circuit Soulsonic, this was my first build and I'm totally loving it.
I also use 1M reverse audio pot and it's even louder than expected, as in really f**** loud.
SHO is nothing compared to this. Mr. Vex you should revise your SHO into this one!
Finch: A witty saying proves nothing - Voltaire
Stifler: Suck my dick - Ron Jeremy
Stifler: Suck my dick - Ron Jeremy
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- Joined: 28 Sep 2009, 01:46
Yep. You're right. Turns out I forgot to turn off the dirt channel on my amp, so once I did turn it off and then played through a clean amp...let's just say I think I almost blew up my amp. This really is one awesome circuit. Good work to all who contributed to this thread.DimebuGG wrote:
I also use 1M reverse audio pot and it's even louder than expected, as in really f**** loud.
SHO is nothing compared to this. Mr. Vex you should revise your SHO into this one!

