3pdt problem
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I rehoused my Chicken Salad and got everything wired up and plugged it in and when I did, the board got power because the lamp was on, but the switch doesn't work. I used the schematic seen in this post https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic ... 21&p=34710 assuming that the label on the switch was at the top of switch in diagram. The LED hooked to the switch doesn't light up at all.
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and on a side note, is this schematic even correct? I've seen about 3 different wiring schematics for a true bypass 3pdt switch and every single one is different, so which one do I use? I've seen the above one, this one at beavis audio http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/, and this one at DIY stomp https://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/im ... wiring.jpg as well as this one http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dcjack.gif. Which one do I use???
Actually, the three diagrams are the same, look with attention and you'll see the Beavis is identical to the Generalguitargadgets.
The DIYstompboxes is slightly different because it moves the LED switching to the center pole, while in the other two it's located in one of the outmost poles.
However, the scheme is the same; you could use a reading of the bypass explanations made by R.G. Keen on his Web page, GEOFEX.
The DIYstompboxes is slightly different because it moves the LED switching to the center pole, while in the other two it's located in one of the outmost poles.
However, the scheme is the same; you could use a reading of the bypass explanations made by R.G. Keen on his Web page, GEOFEX.
The Freestompboxes Forum search function is soo great, use the search function..., the S E A R C H function.
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alright so this brings me back to my orginal question, do I use one of the three or the first one I posted?
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i think you already got your answer, you can use any of them. but one thing you have to remember is that the chicken salad IIRC uses fet switching, and you can't just slap a 3pdt on the ins and outs and make it true bypass, you need to also render the fet switching to be "always on," or else the effect will never come on. i would need to see a pic of how you have everything wired, but you also need to remember that the fet switching also controls the LED when the pedal is stock, so the LED would have to be wired directly to the power supply via a current limiting resistor and then one switch throw would be used to break/reconnect the LED to ground to turn it on.1986lespaul wrote:alright so this brings me back to my orginal question, do I use one of the three or the first one I posted?
But if you are just throwing a switch in there without rendering the fet switching to be always on, none of the wiring diagrams will work.
EDIT: i mispoke. If you remove the board that has the jacks and such, then you are also effectively removing the switching arrangement so my comment above wouldn't apply. However, there is a clear version of the wiring that they used in that thread posted in a picture. If you are having trouble, use the verified switch wiring there instead of the ones above.
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Well I rewired the switch to the beavis audio schematic, and nothing happened again. I just don't understand what the problem is.
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again, pics of the board and wiring could help us diagnose...1986lespaul wrote:Well I rewired the switch to the beavis audio schematic, and nothing happened again. I just don't understand what the problem is.
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Alright, I'm at school so i couldn't snap a pic, but I drew up this wiring diagram. This is the exact way that I wired up my pedal, so if there is anything wrong here, it's wrong on the board.

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no, it's right. The labels got shifted down slightly. I have the 4.5 volts going to the bias supply and the output wire going to the bottom right pin on the switch.
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then it looks right to me. I'm afraid the issue may not be wiring, something might have gotten damaged while doing the rehouse...1986lespaul wrote:no, it's right. The labels got shifted down slightly. I have the 4.5 volts going to the bias supply and the output wire going to the bottom right pin on the switch.
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Well I decided to try it again tonight, and it works. But now the problem is when I turn it on, all I get is a constant high pitched screech, sounds similar to a natural harmonic. When i turn it off, the signal is fine.
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Ok, well I rewired it today, and everything works out fine, but in the process of rewiring, I ripped off the resistor that connects to the blue wire of the chicken sald and I need help in figuring out what the value of it is.
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it's one of them small rectangular ones, but I figured it out, it's a 22k.
I've , almost, the same problem. When i turn on the 3pdt switch the effect doesn't makes nothing, no sounds, even when i turn off it. I've used this wiring
I'm not so certain with the ground, because (in the project below), i've considered the 5th line as ground, so i plugged every ground on it
I'm not so certain with the ground, because (in the project below), i've considered the 5th line as ground, so i plugged every ground on it
Now i've re-built the whole circuit, and when i turn off the 3pdt, comes out the clean signal, but when i turn it on ,zero signal, like dead circuit. With the multimeter i've checked everything and i've found a mistake with the gain pot (500k A), every pot's pin makes short circuit...i don't know why, please help
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if you take some clear, up close pictures of both sides it'd be much easier to lend a hand 
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Hope this helps,
Corrected the wiring of switch.
Note without arrows showing which way the switch throws,,
it's tricky but I've drawn it down the bottom for clarity.
phil.
Corrected the wiring of switch.
Note without arrows showing which way the switch throws,,
it's tricky but I've drawn it down the bottom for clarity.
phil.
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- edit 3pdt.GIF (27.2 KiB) Viewed 1976 times