Kay - Fuzztone (F-1)

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 27 Aug 2007, 06:39

You won´t believe it, here some guts of a Kay Fuzztone for $475,--

(Buy it now):
https://cgi.ebay.com/Kay-Fuzztone-60s-F ... dZViewItem

Here is the schematic:

As you can see it´s nothing else than a low-cost-version of the Shin-ei/Univox Superfuzz or Ibanez/Marlboro/.../..../ Standard Fuzz or Zvex Octane/2/3.

analogguru

Post by **modman** » 28 Dec 2007, 18:59

For the record - pics are gone
Winning bid: US $511.00

Dirk_Hendrik · Post by **Dirk_Hendrik** » 28 Dec 2007, 19:04

Same buyer:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V ... 0183425652

This guy definitely has too much money to spend.

analogguru · Post by **analogguru** » 28 Dec 2007, 19:14

Hmmmm..... (another) pictures (of the same unit) are available here:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V ... 0163915866

As you can see this italian guy is not alone cause he could sell this "bunch of sh*t" for EUR 207,01.....

analogguru

roseblood11 · Post by **roseblood11** » 18 Jan 2009, 04:24

I´m just planning to built a kay fuzztone, but I can´t find all the required parts.

-Which transistor could I use instead of the 2SC644 (Q1)?
-Would the 2N3904 work for Q2-Q4?
-Can I replace the OA90´s with 1N60, 1N34a or 1N270?

regards, Immo

Emanuele · Post by **Emanuele** » 20 Jan 2009, 18:24

Has anyone built one without the filter knob array? Just the plain fuzz sound, or maybe a standard tone control..

roseblood11 · Post by **roseblood11** » 18 Aug 2009, 18:42

Hi,

I´m looking for a veroboard layout for the fuzztone. Can anybody help?

Immo

Solidhex · Post by **Solidhex** » 18 Aug 2009, 19:33

I strongly recommend using silicon diodes in this pedal. it brings the output to a respectable level. The diode clipping and tone section with no recovery stage has very low output if you're wiring it for true bypass. Regular 1n914's sound pretty close to the germaniums in this circuit too. If you exclude the tone control you're missing out on a lot of cool tones. If you're building it as a standalone fuzz ( no treadle or wah casing) put a resistor ( 1k to 10k) between the first lug and ground of the tone control. That way the sound doesn't disappear when the knob is turned all the way clockwise. Its not a concern on the original since the end of the pot travel is never reached with the treadle.

Fastnet · Post by **Fastnet** » 10 Apr 2010, 10:21

Morning all,
I'm getting more obcessed by all things fuzz. I've a dud wah enclosure thats been laying around for a while and thought a good use would be the Kay Fuzztone... Although my soldering is neat and tidy I'm bottom of the class when it comes to turning schmatics into vero layouts.....
So, has anyone done a Kay with authenticity?
If you have can I be cheaky because and ask for a parts list as well...!
Any info greatfully received.....
Regards,
J.

lolbou · Post by **lolbou** » 10 Apr 2010, 12:29

Fastnet wrote:Any info greatfully received.....

Use the search function first...

Don't seem to be any layout though, but seems like a light project to start with!

(Topics merged).

roseblood11 · Post by **roseblood11** » 10 Apr 2010, 18:05

http://ustomp.com/?p=5

Fastnet · Post by **Fastnet** » 12 Apr 2010, 11:24

I did use the search function first!
Why else would I ask for "ANY INFO GREATLY RECIEVED"!
Seriously though, have been checking out youtubes "how to etch a board" and not sure about all those chemicals.... On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to obtain all the necessary and achieve a working result?
J.

Scruffie · Post by **Scruffie** » 12 Apr 2010, 11:34

Fastnet wrote: I did use the search function first!
Why else would I ask for "ANY INFO GREATLY RECIEVED"!
Seriously though, have been checking out youtubes "how to etch a board" and not sure about all those chemicals.... On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to obtain all the necessary and achieve a working result?
J.

No idea but if you give me a day or two i'll try and get a vero layout for it done... no promises though (do you wanna give me an idea of what sized board to work to for your wah shell too?)

Fastnet · Post by **Fastnet** » 12 Apr 2010, 11:41

Scruffie wrote:
Fastnet wrote: I did use the search function first!
Why else would I ask for "ANY INFO GREATLY RECIEVED"!
Seriously though, have been checking out youtubes "how to etch a board" and not sure about all those chemicals.... On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to obtain all the necessary and achieve a working result?
J.
No idea but if you give me a day or two i'll try and get a vero layout for it done... no promises though (do you wanna give me an idea of what sized board to work to for your wah shell too?)

Oh you little gem!
I'll be using an old Dunlop volume pedal shell... A crybaby essentially but this one's silver and ammusingly say's "HIGH GAIN"! Bought on ebay for a pittence... No surprise either as for a volume it was useless, the treadie wouldn't stay still so ended up forking out for an EB Jnr!
Regards,
J.
ps. can it be true bypass and DC powered as well!

Scruffie · Post by **Scruffie** » 12 Apr 2010, 12:31

No worries

Okay... i've done a quick one

, completely unchecked and i'm a bit sceptical of the output section but give it a go for now... bit tight 'cause I was aiming for a 1590B fit but failed Miserably.

(True Bypass & DC it to your hearts content)

Edit: Re-Uploaded to Fix Missing Track Cuts

Fastnet · Post by **Fastnet** » 12 Apr 2010, 13:35

Scruffie wrote:No worries

Okay... i've done a quick one , completely unchecked and i'm a bit sceptical of the output section but give it a go for now... bit tight 'cause I was aiming for a 1590B fit but failed Miserably.

(True Bypass & DC it to your hearts content)

Edit: Re-Uploaded to Fix Missing Track Cuts

Wow that was quick!
Quick few Q's...
What is it you're sceptical about with the output section?
How did you make this vero layout? By which I mean, did you "read" the schematic and "translate" it to vero? because I've seen the schematic for the SDD3000 preamp and I've been wondering about making that since I saw the thread by "Analogguru" a while ago...!

Regards,
J.

Scruffie · Post by **Scruffie** » 12 Apr 2010, 13:43

Indeed it was quick, didn't have much to do this morning, but quick means it should be re-checked.

What is it you're sceptical about with the output section?

I'm just sceptical that I got it right is all, just needs going over really, by someone else with a fresh set of eyes preferably.

How did you make this vero layout? By which I mean, did you "read" the schematic and "translate" it to vero?

Yeah I took Analoggurus schematic and converted it to Vero in the usual fashion, I didn't pluck it from thin air

here's a tutorial for converting Schematics to boards etc. for future reference...
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Sc ... ToReality/

I've seen the schematic for the SDD3000 preamp and I've been wondering about making that since I saw the thread by "Analogguru" a while ago...!

If you give the SDD3000 a shot on vero i'm sure someone here could look it over for you

Fastnet · Post by **Fastnet** » 12 Apr 2010, 13:50

Thankyou thankyou thankyou!

I now have a pile of work to get through from this morning but I'll be reading through the Beavis tonight....

Greg G said to me a while back that this place is full of very nice people.... So glad to be part of the clan!

Cheers,
J.

Fastnet · Post by **Fastnet** » 12 Apr 2010, 13:54

Sorry one last Q.... What rating (voltage wise) would you choose for the components? ... Who would you use? Was going to do an order with CPC...
Cheers,
J.

Scruffie · Post by **Scruffie** » 12 Apr 2010, 14:11

Fastnet wrote:Sorry one last Q.... What rating (voltage wise) would you choose for the components? ...

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Caps/

Beavis wrote:There are hundreds of different types of electrolytics. Typically, you are going to make your choice based on value in farads (see "Units of Measure" below) and voltage rating. For safety, it is a good idea to get voltage ratings at least twice your circuit’s input voltage. So if you are building a 9v stompbox, 18v-rated electrolytics would be good.

So just make sure your electros are around double the voltage of the input (16v is usually the rating I see that would be safe) and most people usually use 1/4 Watt Resistors but that doesn't really matter for stompboxes.

Don't Forget that the transistors and diodes listed are the ones used originally, these pedals are very old so you're probably gunna be better off using cheaper modern equivalents than searching out the original parts... such as 1N34a for the Germanium Diodes (nothing stopping you trying silicon ones such as the 1N4148 or 1N914 though but they will change the clipping/tone of the the fuzz and in certain pedals, wont work, but I think they'll be fine here) and any low hFe NPN transistors such as BC 239 B, BC 549 B, BC 550 B, 2N3904, 2N5088... take your pick.

Fastnet wrote:Who would you use? Was going to do an order with CPC...

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/buildstuff/

Beavis wrote:Quick List Here's a quick list of web-based retailers:
Big Guys, bazillions of parts
http://www.mouser.com
http://www.alliedelec.com
http://www.digikey.com
Medium Guys, lots of parts
http://www.jameco.com
http://www.futurlec.com
http://www.banzaieffects.com
Stompbox/Audio Specific
http://www.smallbearelec.com
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com
http://www.effectsconnection.com
Great Surplus Sites
http://www.allelectronics.com
http://www.goldmine-elec.com
http://www.action-electronics.com

I'm in the U.K so personally, i'd use http://www.bitsbox.co.uk, if I was ordering outside i'd use a combination of http://www.futurlec.com for cheap parts and http://www.smallbearelec.com for harder to find parts and enclosures etc.

Kay - Fuzztone (F-1) [schematic]