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Well, we have tried anything

Staples and other picture paper, PNP, magazine paper, transparancy sheets, cigarette paper and toilet paper.

But it works with the normal paper in your laser printer, if you know the how to use your paper the right side up. This paper has one side that's a bit more shiny than the other. That's the side to print on -- not just with pcb making but always.

I didn't take the smallest layout:



After cleaning pcb with steel wool and light fluid or acetone, put your iron on LINNEN (hottest), hold the paper steady and keep your iron fixed on top for a few minutes so paper sticks. After that iron the life out of that board. I also use the side of the iron to get a lot of pressure on one point. Don't forget the sides.10 minutes.



After that soak the board in warm water and gradually add cold water so the toner can safely set.





After a cup of tea well deserved you can rub off the paper with your thumbs






And as they say - the proof of the transfer is in the etching:


Did really nobody ever try to use normal paper? This would be too crazy!
Felt like sharing this at 3am in the morning...

Comments always welcome. MarkM, I KNOW you're sticking to PNP!!



good night

I have been using a KINSTEN coated product.
I print my tracks on some overhead transparency paper or mylar film etc. with my Canon mono laser printer (always print reverse, so it makes better contact with the coated copper side of the board).
Then place a small sheet of glass on top of the transparency to hold it close to the board - 30 seconds under the sunlamp - until the colour of the coating changes from green to blue. Then 30 seconds in the developing solution (Kinsten developer crystals) and perfect results every time - and VERY sharp images even with small track widths and fine writing etc.
Next etch with ammonium persulphate crystals for 5 to 10 minutes.
Hardest part - drilling the damn holes going cross eyed.
bajaman

bajaman wrote:I have been using a KINSTEN coated product.
I print my tracks on some overhead transparency paper or mylar film etc. with my Canon mono laser printer (always print reverse, so it makes better contact with the coated copper side of the board).
Then place a small sheet of glass on top of the transparency to hold it close to the board - 30 seconds under the sunlamp - until the colour of the coating changes from green to blue. Then 30 seconds in the developing solution (Kinsten developer crystals) and perfect results every time - and VERY sharp images even with small track widths and fine writing etc.
Next etch with ammonium persulphate crystals for 5 to 10 minutes.
Hardest part - drilling the damn holes going cross eyed.
bajaman

Hey Baja,

Your style is definately OLD SKOOL , mine is more GHETTO STYLEE Cheapo: never buy and iron, there's one in every house. And minimal tools. Photodevelopment is probably faster if you have a lot of boards at the same time to do.

Try it one time! I should admit that for me part of the adrenaline rush is using my gf's expensive iron.

is the lighter fuel the one used for lighters?

Hi Modman..........I was making boards with regular paper....laserjet 1000......iron(PHILIPS)......and I use HCL for cleaning toilets(18%), and hydrogen 12% for hair whitening.....

I was not satisfied every time, but now , I use Photo paper..(for inkjet printers) , and it is much better....and not expencive.....

boris

Hi guys,
Am I right in thinking this works with laser printers but not inkjet?

gingataff wrote:Hi guys,
Am I right in thinking this works with laser printers but not inkjet?

Thats right, inkjet wont work. Laser printer or copier will.

Any tips for securing the transfer onto the pcb while ironing?
To stop the iron from moving the transfer and smudging?

Will have to try paper next time, I've tried PnP and Acetate (OHP paper) so far..

kierc wrote:Any tips for securing the transfer onto the pcb while ironing?
To stop the iron from moving the transfer and smudging?

Will have to try paper next time, I've tried PnP and Acetate (OHP paper) so far..

just put it in some notebook with sheet of paper over it....no smudging....perfect.....

tried copier paper a long time ago, found it too insconsistent. i was very new to DIY though - this is about 6-8 years ago.

nowadays i use the backing of printable labels. comes out perfectly every time.

ok so i know that youre supposed to clean the lines up with a special marker (sharpie maybe)
whats to keep you from just drawing the layout with sharpie/marker... ya it would be sloppy... but would it work...

You could always try with those stickers you can get to make the traces by hand... would be a bit tedious though!

TheAttackman wrote:ok so i know that youre supposed to clean the lines up with a special marker (sharpie maybe)
whats to keep you from just drawing the layout with sharpie/marker... ya it would be sloppy... but would it work...

There are special markers available in electronic stores. Mostly made for touch-ups when using tape/decal, but you can do the whole board with it ... If you look at old PCBs, they were drawn in elegant curves instead of straight and 45° lines typical of CAD software.

I don't often etch, but i did once with decals just for DIP packages (including lines between pads) then marker for all the rest. It worked fine, but don't hesitate to pass several times for good masking. A Sharpie should work quite well also, at least when quite new.

But for anything a bit complex or requiring good precision, you'll get better results with toner transfer.

but for like a simple devi like the df or maybe a oscillator... itd work..

TheAttackman wrote:but for like a simple devi like the df or maybe a oscillator... itd work..

I used to do it originally (before I had a laser printer). successfully (although not pretty) did a few R.O.G. pedals (odie supreaux). laser printer and press'n'peel is my weapon of choice for now.

hi modman, plain copier paper? is this what you're talkin about??

Is it the paper used in photocopiers??