freestompboxes.org

grolschie wrote:Whoops. I took a close look at my FETs and it seems I accidentally bought 2n5484s. I am guessing that this could be my prob. I will try to get some 2n5457s and will post back at some stage.

I'm sorry everyone.

Ok I now have some 2n5457s. Same low output. The original HB is way louder than my build. I am not sure what's wrong with mine.

drop them around - I'll scope them and see what is going wrong.
cheers
bajaman

Awesome. Thanks Bajaman.

Could someone take a minute and explain how the "Nature" control works? I haven't been able to fully understand it from the thread yet.

Is that some kind of feedback control or does it Filter different parts of the circuit at opposite ends of the pot?


Thanks,

coldcraft wrote: Is that some kind of feedback control or does it Filter different parts of the circuit at opposite ends of the pot?

When turned fully anticlockwise, it increases the amount of low frequency gain by decreasing the resistance between the 22uF cap and ground in the opamp's feedback loop. When turned clockwise, it decreases the amount of high-end by decreasing the resistance between the low pass filter cap and ground on the output.

turn the bass up or turn the treble down eh? seems kinda redundant.

coldcraft wrote:turn the bass up or turn the treble down eh? seems kinda redundant.

My experience is that turning it to the left adds a nice bit of bottom end without sucking highs like some tone knobs can do.

guys, when turning the tone pot fully ccw there's full band lows and highs. when the tone is at center, the low and high end response gets dimmed, so you hear much more mids. when the tone is fully cw you get full highs, but less lows.
that's the way all the tone pots works in the MP pedals.

mibu wrote:guys, when turning the tone pot fully ccw there's full band lows and highs. when the tone is at center, the low and high end response gets dimmed, so you hear much more mids. when the tone is fully cw you get full highs, but less lows.
that's the way all the tone pots works in the MP pedals.

EDIT - mibu's right, under new light of info!

The scheme is WRONG
more soon
bajaman

ps madbean's Yellow Shark project is also NOTHING like the REAL Honey Bee

stay tuned - all is about to be revealed
bajaman

Oi, what's that all about?



I never bothered trying to build one according to the scheme to compare against my original. Now I'm tempted to give it a go to hear how different it sounds.

You will be VERY disappointed with how it sounds -as others who have built it (and heard the original are )
First clue: The nature pot is a 500k log pot NOT a 50k log pot - also madbean's Yellow Shark shows this pot connected in reverse
Second Clue: the wiring of a 4n7 connected between the nature pot and the top of the volume control is WRONG
( details of the correct wiring WILL be released in due course.
Third clue: The resistor values (both 5k6) on the drain and source of the recovery fet are incorrect ) I suspect the fet is NOT a 2N5457 also - more soon.
Honestly - there are SOOOOOOOOOOOO many mistakes with this schematic that it should never have been released
more soon - and a CORRECT schematic
bajaman

Crazy.

Crazy.

but sadly TRUE
bajaman

So, what's the delay then?

----about 24 hours
bajaman

Weren't people who were in on the degooping project confirming that the yellow shark schem was correct? This is sort of ridiculous.

As far as they were aware it was. I wouldn't worry, the tweaks you'll have to make to any previous builds are structurally not major at all.

The Yellow Shark schematic is correct, to the schematic I posted. That schematic was an update to Analogguru's preliminary schematic, added were previously unreported values and an inference on the final arrangement of the "nature" control -- the 4n7 capacitor had broken off in the process of degooping, making it difficult to discern its proper location in the circuit. I did not post that schematic for release as I wanted Analogguru to look it over; however, it was, obviously, redrawn and eventually released to satisfy the masses.

Not to place the blame on anyone else, I am entirely responsible for the mistake in the "nature" wiring. I wash my hands of anything else, as any missing values were reported and so added. My bad.

Here are the changes necessary to build a closer version of the Honey Bee.
1. Change the 22uf capacitor connected to pin#1 of the nature pot to 2.2uf (madbean shows this as pin#3 in his schematic) The 22uf value adds far too much low frequency gain when the nature control is turned fully counter clockwise.
2. Change the 5k6 resistor connected to the source of the jfet recovery gain stage to 2k2.
3. Remove the 4n7 capacitor from the other terminal of the nature pot and replace it with a 5k1 (or 5k6) resistor.
4. cut the track which connects the other side of this replacement resistor to the top of the volume control and reattachit with a wire directly to the source of the jfet.

That's it - all done!!!
NOW you have a correct functioning Honey Bee - enjoy.

One last comment: In the HB which was degooped here on fsb, the nature pot is 50k log, however my original HB has defionitely got a 500k log nature pot in it.
Perhaps Bjorn made a mistake when he assembled mine, because i feel that a 50k log pot is a far more sensible value in this position.
With the 500k fitted all the action takes place at the minimum and maximum positions of the pot's rotation - a 50k pot is a much more gradual sweep from bass boost at minimum to a small overall frequency gain boost at maximum, but either pot value will sound exactly the same at each extreme.

Enough - out with your soldering irons!!!
cheers
bajaman