What brick did you use, the short, medium or long style?
medium came with the kit. It would be fun to play around with the different bricks though, I really think they sound fantastic. even on the demo (which sounds more digital recorded than in person) it doesn't sound a bit digital to me until maxed out.
I just got this thing built up on perf and I was wondering if the 0 ohm jumper resistors have to really be resisitors or can they just be jumper wires?
it definitely sounds like more of a hall type verb. AFAIC it's a different sound altogether than your vintage style spring. it would be hard for me to compare the two side by side as they are very different reverb sounds. i guess it just depends more on personal taste.
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
You mean the GGG/Hermida Reverb. IMHO it's a def a spring type of reverb.
I have a 66 Super Reverb and usually set the reverb between 2-4 to get a slightly bigger sound and it's where most people set their reverb. I compared the GGG Reverb with my SR reverb and could not tell the difference. If you crank the GGG reverb you will hear the repeats and the reverb will sound like a delay set to sound like reverb but it's not how I use it. I'm not Dick Dale.
Man, so I built this thing up once on Perf and realized I had mirror-imaged the board so the IC feet were hopelessly mirrored.
Then I started from scratch again, built on perf being very careful to make an perfect layout. Got it all together, the reverb brick's feet all soldered in and all I get is super-static with no guitar signal coming through. The static goes up and down depending on how I twist the wet/dry pot.
At this point, if I could just buy GGG PCB I would but they only sell it in a kit so......
Also, of note, I used a BAT 41 diode instead of the BAT 45. And the 5V regulator I got doesn't have a section at the top to solder onto the board like in the GGG instructions. Is that a special kind of regulator? And is it crucial to have that type that solder's onto the board? From looking at the PCB shots it seemed like the top solder was just a point on the board that didn't go anywhere so I figured it was structural.
Could anyone recommend a way to troubleshoot this?
So I've built this thing twice now on perf without success. I've checked layout pretty thoroughly but I wanted to ask about the Voltage Regulator. On the GGG instructions they've got a voltage regulator that has a metal tab at the top that also gets soldered to the board although there is not connection between the tab solder point and anything else on the circuit. What I'm wondering is, in Japan I've only found voltage regulators that DON'T have the metal tab up top, they're covered in plastic so I can't solder it down to the board at that point. What I want to know is, does this make any difference? My thought was that since the connection point isn't going anyway having it attached or not shouldn't make any difference, am I wrong?
Also, any recommendations on a substitute for the BAT diode? Those are pretty difficult to find here too.
Thanks! I really wanna get this thing working....!
i just build this using the L version of brick. i bought it wrongly.....
it sound a bit thin but i like it.
the only draw back is the sound of bouncing switch....
when i stomp it on....it get a switching noise.....very annoying!!!
Any help to get over this?
newly wrote:when i stomp it on....it get a switching noise.....very annoying!!!
Any help to get over this?
I'm actually working on a version of this with a "tails" function, so that you can switch the effect off and still have the echoes complete. This also should kill the switch pop in tails mode. I'll post details when I get a little further along with it.
newly wrote:when i stomp it on....it get a switching noise.....very annoying!!!
Any help to get over this?
I'm actually working on a version of this with a "tails" function, so that you can switch the effect off and still have the echoes complete. This also should kill the switch pop in tails mode. I'll post details when I get a little further along with it.
Kitarist wrote:So can anyone else confirm that Hermida Reverb is actually a 100% clone of GGG Reverb?
I swear it sounds different on the clips i heard
I'm not saying it's a clone, I'm saying the two things you are talking about are one thing. You can either buy one that Alf built or you can get the EXACT SAME project on GGG which Alf contributed.
Just so everyone knows, the asshole above wants $10 for the pdf file of the pcb transfer that he copied from the ggg pcb.
Here is his message to me when I asked for the transfer, not realizing he wanted $10 for it:
Hello!
Thank you for your interest for this PCB. I've used 2 Belton Brick's medium & long Decay. In atachment you can find some sound samples made in this chain: guitar-reverb pedal-amplifier-headfone out (amplifier) - line in PC. Hope you like them.
Price for pdf layout - 10$ (payable via paypal).
Best regards,
Sorin
KindaFuzzy - Looks like a blue nail polish and nutella sandwich.
Freekish - "Our originality is in the basement. Our business is in the toilet"
Guitarlcarl - I did take offence at being called an idiot by a moron.