True bypass for Russian big muff?
Can I add a true bypass or any other mods to my black Russian big muff? The switch it dead on mine and I bought a 3pdt and that has 9 posts, the original has 6. A true bypass would be nice, the tone sucks when distortion isn't engaged.
- lolbou
- Old Solderhand
It is, even if a DPDT would have been enough (you don't really need a LED to know when it's engaded, do you?)...
See here: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dt_std.gif, and just leave one side of your 3PDT unused (the LED side on this pic ffor example http://www.little-black-box.co.uk/image ... wiring.jpg)
Cheers...
See here: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/dia ... dt_std.gif, and just leave one side of your 3PDT unused (the LED side on this pic ffor example http://www.little-black-box.co.uk/image ... wiring.jpg)
Cheers...
- Are you a mod or a rocker?
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
- Uh, no, I'm a mocker.
I am using this as directions for the true bypass mod on my black Big Muff.

It is not terribly clear to me looking at my pedal where I should cut the trace. Beyond that I have 2 yellow wires coming from the center poles on the tone and sustain knobs that I am not sure where to connect with info given in the pic alone. I am otherwise pretty well converted I think. Any ideas?

It is not terribly clear to me looking at my pedal where I should cut the trace. Beyond that I have 2 yellow wires coming from the center poles on the tone and sustain knobs that I am not sure where to connect with info given in the pic alone. I am otherwise pretty well converted I think. Any ideas?
- RnFR
- Old Solderhand
Information
search the forum for a correction to the russian muff that soulsonic found. there is an error in the original layout.
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
Blog-APOCALYPSE AUDIO
Blog-APOCALYPSE AUDIO
- RnFR
- Old Solderhand
Information
on the diagram it looks like you should cut the trace between the 39K resistor and the input jack.
"You've converted me to Cubic thinking. Where do I sign up for the newsletter? I need to learn more about how I can break free from ONEism Death Math." - Soulsonic
Blog-APOCALYPSE AUDIO
Blog-APOCALYPSE AUDIO
- sinner
- Old Solderhand
Information
- Posts: 4710
- Joined: 06 Nov 2008, 17:16
- Location: ...no more
- Has thanked: 1031 times
- Been thanked: 907 times
OT; Highly recomended shop based in Germany, expensive but IMO worth it, I had a pleasure to deal with them when I was pimpin my guitar. Greate guy to deal with, pro seller/buyer relation, greate FAQ/know how section
RnFR wrote:on the diagram it looks like you should cut the trace between the 39K resistor and the input jack.
That looks like it to me also, but it is the only point it gets any signal, does not make a terrible lot of sense to me, but I am a phone man.
I have cut the trace. Where do I terminate the vol2 (out) from the switch? I think I have it otherwise correct.h8mtv wrote:I am using this as directions for the true bypass mod on my black Big Muff.
It is not terribly clear to me looking at my pedal where I should cut the trace. Beyond that I have 2 yellow wires coming from the center poles on the tone and sustain knobs that I am not sure where to connect with info given in the pic alone. I am otherwise pretty well converted I think. Any ideas?
h8mtv wrote:I have cut the trace. Where do I terminate the vol2 (out) from the switch? I think I have it otherwise correct.h8mtv wrote:I am using this as directions for the true bypass mod on my black Big Muff.
It is not terribly clear to me looking at my pedal where I should cut the trace. Beyond that I have 2 yellow wires coming from the center poles on the tone and sustain knobs that I am not sure where to connect with info given in the pic alone. I am otherwise pretty well converted I think. Any ideas?
That refers to lug #2 (middle) on the volume pot
h8mtv wrote:And what connects to center position of sustain pot?
The wire from the pcb that is labeled S-2 on the diagram. Each wiring on the bottom of the diagram is labeled with its corresponding lug on the pot. V=volume, t=tone, s=sustain. Here is a reference if you aren't familiar with how the lugs are numbered on a pot.
I did two of these this weekend. The best advice that I can give you is to remove all the wires and rewire it from scratch with some colored wire. Not only will it make it a lot easier to identify which wire goes where, but it's also an improvement or the stock wiring, which has been frayed on every black russian muff I've ever seen.h8mtv wrote:I have gone over it and everything is hooked up properly as far as I can tell. Bypasses fine but when I engage the circuit the light comes on but I am dead. No sound at all.


