freestompboxes.org

I pretty much got this pedal for free. I was told it was bought in Poland, and I think it was made there too. I haven't played around with it very much, but I think it sounds pretty decent..
I assume it's a clone of something. It has the same IC's as the boss ce-3 (according to a schematic I found on the web) but it isn't stereo.. I'm quite retarded when it comes to reading schematics

Anyway, here are the gut shots:




Higher res:
http://i33.tinypic.com/2mc62ps.jpg
http://i33.tinypic.com/i6cb3a.jpg

Cool, thanks!

Could you give more info concerning the transistors and caps? And some other info on the -switching?- board?

Could be - more probably? - a CE-2 clone, but wonder what the second trimpot is for though...

I can't help you with this, but I have a lot of Koda effects and some of them are very good: Dynamic Filter, Octaver, Attack Equalizer,...
The dirt pedals are very noisy and the battery doors and switches can break.

http://www.effectsdatabase.com/model/koda/kd

Exar bought Koda when they stopped (in 200x?), but I think they're just selling the stock, not producing any pedals (certainly no new models).

lolbou wrote:Cool, thanks!

Could you give more info concerning the transistors and caps? And some other info on the -switching?- board?

Yeah that would be nice. Maybe it would be good to mark values on the photo, like I did with the old KOD Compressor from 80's.
look here: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7504

DiscoFreq wrote:I can't help you with this, but I have a lot of Koda effects and some of them are very good: Dynamic Filter, Octaver, Attack Equalizer,...

If you could take gut shots of pedals what you have, it could be redrawn and traced.

Must say this chorus is very neat in comparison with the compressor I posted. Better production line I guess.

The built quality didn't change much between the Kod pedals and the Koda pedals, it really depends on the model.

I have all KOD NG pedals (most of them several times) except the Kod NG-15 Over Drive Turbo (both Turbo pedals seem to be rare):
http://www.effectsdatabase.com/model/kod/ng

There's also an earlier series (without the Kod name on the housing):
http://www.effectsdatabase.com/model/kod/first

And I think there's a link with PUE (also an Attack Equalizer and same housing for the wah pedals):
http://www.effectsdatabase.com/model/pue

DiscoFreq wrote:The built quality didn't change much between the Kod pedals and the Koda pedals, it really depends on the model.

Yeah. That's for sure. I've seen some components inside that reminded me like they were made in USSR in 80's and crappy quality elco's for sure. But I kinda miss them since they were "cheap" and much more present at the beginning of 90's.
I think some of them could be modded with better components or rebuild.
I'm eager to find much as I can information on them (pure nostalgia) so if it's possible to take shots inside them I could redraw the pcb's easily. Cheers

Thanks for the info DiscoFreq. Nice site you have there btw, I've been there a few times before.
I didn't think there'd be any interest in this pedal, but I guess I was wrong

Here are some values:


I don't know much about electronics, so if I've made any mistakes I wouldn't be able to tell. If something looks wrong just tell me, and I'll check again.

Here's the solder side of the small board:

High res:
http://i36.tinypic.com/2vt2maw.jpg

Cool Duke!

The standing trimpot on the left misses though...

Are the diodes markings impossible to see?

I think I have a koda's flanger in my uncle basement It was there few years ago, It's good time to see him finaly, so I'll take the fucker, will open it and take few nice shoots for you guys Its broken BTW

When I start playing aprox 20 years ago, this flanger + dynamic wah (mad professor's snow white wah workalike, I was to lame to use it correctly) and metal master (or something) was my first units

Good job Duke.
Well..fellows I see you are interested in this one so am I.
I believe the first photo would be good enough to redraw pcb.

I really don't know if this is right:


The trimpot says 224 on the screw, and 92 on the top. What does that mean?

himister wrote:I believe the first photo would be good enough to redraw pcb.

Yes indeed!

lolbou wrote:

himister wrote:I believe the first photo would be good enough to redraw pcb.

Yes indeed!

One KOD layout done...viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7504&p=78856#p78856
Many more to go. Hope that would be satisfactory. Spam not intended. Apologies.

Done.
It would be good to work out the true bypass.

Good lord! You're fast! May I ask what software you use? (and how can green traces be used for classic UV stuff?)

Anyway, it's cool... Why caring about the switching board? If you true bypass it, you don't need it (maybe the "power" part of it (and input buffer?) can be incorporated on the main board?)...

lolbou wrote:Good lord! You're fast! May I ask what software you use? (and how can green traces be used for classic UV stuff?)

Anyway, it's cool... Why caring about the switching board? If you true bypass it, you don't need it (maybe the "power" part of it (and input buffer?) can be incorporated on the main board?)...

Thanks Laurent.
I have a gremlin in my but that itches me until I finish it. Easily done when do redrawing. Sprint Layout 5 is the software.
No need for UV stuff, just flip the photo and insert in scanned copy option and draw, draw, draw until head starts bumping the table.
If you need any help with SL5 or how to obtain it...let me know.

I'll do the smaller board later, maybe not this evening but I hope tomorrow will be finished. I guess one is enough for one day.
Merging boards would be nice but maybe had to redesign the whole thing and I have a lazy spirit too.
I'll consider it.

himister wrote:I have a gremlin in my but that itches me until I finish it. Easily done when do redrawing. Sprint Layout 5 is the software.

I'm good at redrawing too (with inkscape) but I don't have any Gremlin... But my wife does actually since we're expecting a little boy in 4 weeks...

himister wrote:No need for UV stuff, just flip the photo and insert in scanned copy option and draw, draw, draw until head starts bumping the table.

No no, I was thinking of ultraviolet light to make PCBs... I use a B&W transfer to expose my epoxy, and a green one would suck... That's why my question...

lolbou wrote: I'm good at redrawing too (with inkscape) but I don't have any Gremlin... But my wife does actually since we're expecting a little boy in 4 weeks...

No no, I was thinking of ultraviolet light to make PCBs... I use a B&W transfer to expose my epoxy, and a green one would suck... That's why my question...

Wow dad. Congratulations!!! All the best wishes for the small freestomper.

Sorry. My bad. These are just layouts, I have a habit to post layouts first just in case if anyone would check first and find an errors.
I export them into pdf so printing is easy in high resolution. Personally. I have a friend who makes these on the film for me then I go for transfer and Positiv 20 photo copying lacquer. I assume you use the same.
Here is unchecked. Let me know if there are any errors.

Great PCB as always.......thanks himister,and congratulations for lolbou.....



boris

Yeah...thanks Boris.

Small switch-power board almost finished but....It would be nice if I new the wire connections between boards so I could mark them properly.
So Duke Lioneye, could you help a bit here. Thanks.