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mictester wrote:
Don't waste your time worrying about resistor types - as long as you have the right values, the circuit will work well. However, carbon composition types will add to the hiss from the circuit, so are best avoided, and we don't need their bogus "mojo" factor.
I was more thinking about metal film resistors than carbon comp ones.
mictester wrote:
Don't waste your time worrying about resistor types - as long as you have the right values, the circuit will work well. However, carbon composition types will add to the hiss from the circuit, so are best avoided, and we don't need their bogus "mojo" factor.
I was more thinking about metal film resistors than carbon comp ones.
Yes - no problem. They'll work fine. I just built another one this evening for a guitarist friend, and was going to take photographs of it, but he wanted it for a gig tonight, and it's on stage somewhere in London right now, in a plain, unpainted diecast box with hand-written labelling done with a "sharpie"!
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"
This was the first compressor I've built - in fact the first I have used as well.
I've noticed with my build that when the compression is turned all the way up, it introduces a nasty distortion in the background. At fist i though it might have been the humbuckers on my Sg overdriving the circuit, but I've noticed the same thing with my Tele. really not sure where to start with debugging this - anything you could recommend?
I finished it yesterday, but the sustain pot does not change the sound. I opened the box and saw that the LEDs light up just a little bit and only for a moment (when I bit string). I used two standard 3mm green leds.
Mictester, which is the maximum current that powers the LEDs? I can do tests to see how much current my LEDs needs to light completely.
YuGi wrote:I finished it yesterday, but the sustain pot does not change the sound. I opened the box and saw that the LEDs light up just a little bit and only for a moment (when I bit string). I used two standard 3mm green leds.
Mictester, which is the maximum current that powers the LEDs? I can do tests to see how much current my LEDs needs to light completely.
So I tested my LED and they require 14 mA to fully illuminate. I also tested the LDR, but I found strange values :
should be 1M in the dark, but completely covered with black tape I see about 200M!
Perhaps what would be interesting would be to branch off the output of the LED driver to something high-
impedance like ?maybe? a Mosfet so that you can get a kindofa "looking glass" LED on the front panel to
see what's going on inside the vactrol. You can get kinda deceived by the "transparent" action of the box,
and that would give you more of a feel for the actual circuit behavior.
Funny you should suggest that - it's exactly what I did to one at the weekend! I'll post the amendment to the schematic for the "optional indicator" here later - it's just a scribble on a piece of paper at the moment. I'll draw it up properly so that it's easy to read.
Hello mictester,
Have you a schem of these option ?
I'm new in this forum, and this will be my first project to be assembled.
curtisl wrote:Could I use a 1- Silonex NSL-32 instead of the LDR and 2 leds or does this need 2 leds to work?
Thanks
Curtisl
If I'm not wrong the NSL-32 is 500k dark, this project needs 1M LDR.
You're not wrong, but it will work, though you might have to change one or two other component values. Remember - the values I give are intended to be a known good starting point. You're welcome to experiment with values, and if you come up with a better combination, please let us all know, and put it up here!
"Why is it humming?" "Because it doesn't know the words!"