Are this boxes suitable for DIY stompboxes? I'm planning to put 2 footswitches to its sloped body and I was just wondering if the metal could really handle the force required for stepping? Will it not deform easily? Thanks.
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This actually was my first choice. Unfortunately, my budget is too tight for this considering international freight charges, customs tax, etc. But thanks for your suggestion!
lolbou wrote:Look at the datasheet: it says 0.061" thick (1.62mm) for enclosures up to 14" wide... This might be weak, unless your enclosure is a short one...
Great! I'm actually in need of the smallest one Hammond could offer. Would 1456CE2WHBU be suitable then? Here are the dimensions: http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1456CE2.pdf
i've seen those boxes at a local shop, or at least very similar. Its metal sheet, but to me they feel hard enough for stompbox use.
They were quite expensive thoug
Prism II - Silver/Grey Hammer should be here at any time (as well as Prism I), I'll report what I think about them. I expecting top notch quality as always from Mike...
cpm wrote:i've seen those boxes at a local shop, or at least very similar. Its metal sheet, but to me they feel hard enough for stompbox use.
They were quite expensive thoug
now i recall those i saw were manufactured by Retex
The 1456's are perfectly fine, not weak in the slightest. You would have to put a lot of effort into bending the sides or the top. The only downside to them is they have venting on the backside and the bottom. No big deal really, and good for tube circuits.
I built a Big Cheese clone in one.
Have any of you guys used one of the larger ones? I am plannign to use one of the 14" (1456PH1) for 3 effects at once
That enclosure by sonicvi looks really sturdy.
Another option would be to put a support on the bottom of each of the 3PDT's to have support in case of excessive foot force. Something like a plastic stud cut to fit.
I would seriously consider using soft touch (momentary) switches and doing the switching using CMOS or relays. That and put the switches near the bottom, not half way up.
At that point I think you'd have nothing to worry about.
The question isn't so much whether the box is too weak, the real question is whether you could tolerate the audible "clang" that you might get from a sheet panel. At 0.061" thickness, the strength should be adequate if you are not using much more force than you need to activate the switch. Both problems could be solved by putting a block of wood or hard plastic on both sides of the switch with maybe a piece of thin rubber (like a bicycle tire patch) between the upper piece of sheet metal and the front of the box. The block would be shaped to fit the box and would be bolted in from the bottom so no screws would show.