Are all 3PDT stomp swithches the same?

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Dr Tony Balls
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Post by Dr Tony Balls »

Smallbear has this one for $9:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=20

Pedalpartsplus has four different ones ranging from $3.80 to $4.25:
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merch ... y_Code=SWI

And then stewmac has this one for a whopping $13:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics ... witch.html



now i've had the ones from smallbear, and i've probably had all the ones from PPP and not noticed a difference in any of them. I know some of the PPP ones are just ROHS compliant versions of others. But then a friend that works for stewmac sent me some of theirs in a horse trade for some pedals and nut files and shit. They're black. So are the ones in fulltone pedals. Are they any different? I always just assumed the fulltone ones were black to look different, and just rebranded versions of the same stuff for fulltone.

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Greg
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Post by Greg »

I think they're mostly the same or very similar.
The Fulltone ones are slightly different internally, he has them batch modified to his specs.
The differences are subtle though... I think I posted pics long ago if you do a search.

There's another brand called RunRun that again are a similar design, but of different manufacture.
ZVex uses these in some of his pedals and they appear to be OK as well.
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Post by RnFR »

this is a good question. there are also the chinese white ones.
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Post by Dr Tony Balls »

hrmmmm i wired up one of these stewmac black switches yesterday and i'll be damned but I think it DOES seem different. the latching seems softer or something. less mechanical noise when you hit it. I could just be imagining that, though.

Anyone ever tried to take a 3PDT apart? can it be done or is it near impossible? i'd consider taking some different ones apart to see if theres a difference.

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Post by KindaFuzzy »

The blue ones come apart pretty easily, I had to repair one that got too hot from soldering. The grease from the springs inside liquified and covered all the switch contacts and screwed everything up. Really easy to put back together as well.

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Post by darkglass »

I've worked with the blue ones, and they are not the same... there better ones, sadly, the only way for me to know, is to see both.
Here in Finland I found the best I've seen so far, expensive, but really compact and solid as rock.
http://uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info ... 6gv26jmdh4

I'll be using these for my pedals from now on...

Greetings!

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Post by Ronsonic »

I have had perfect results from the "Cliff" branded 3PDTs.

Very good results from all other blue ones.
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Post by RnFR »

Ronsonic wrote:I have had perfect results from the "Cliff" branded 3PDTs.

Very good results from all other blue ones.
these are what i have been buying lately. i haven't done any major testing, but i haven't had any problems with them. at least the company has enough pride in their product to put their name on it.
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Post by darkglass »

Yepp thats right. I have also heard good stff about Cliffs, but sadly, you know how good is a switch basically on how much it lasts... If you have pedals with more than couple of years in heavy use, and they haven´t failed, I think that´s as good as it gets... since all mechanicall device will wear out at some point.

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Post by Greg »

darkglass wrote: Here in Finland I found the best I've seen so far, expensive, but really compact and solid as rock.
http://uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info ... 6gv26jmdh4

I'll be using these for my pedals from now on...

Greetings!

Doug.
The Fujisokus have been discussed before on here.. used in the original Way Huge pedals I think, and also by Xotic.

Also, Maxon use a Fujisoku 4PDT in the AD-999 Delay (one of which crapped out on me :D )
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Post by darkglass »

Crap!! hehehe Well, I have had too many of different brands die in my arms hehehe.
I have an idea for a stress test... have the switch itself activating a small motor that I could adjust to simulate a normal's stomp preassure, and then a counter to see the life cycle... is quite simple, since is the activation of the switch what engages the motor to press it the next time, when ever it fails, the motor would stop and the counter should tell us exaclty when it stoped :D.
Sadly I have never worked with robotics or whatsoever, if someone could thorugh a few tips about small engines, would be nice :D.

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Post by Ronsonic »

darkglass wrote:Crap!! hehehe Well, I have had too many of different brands die in my arms hehehe.
I have an idea for a stress test... have the switch itself activating a small motor that I could adjust to simulate a normal's stomp preassure, and then a counter to see the life cycle... is quite simple, since is the activation of the switch what engages the motor to press it the next time, when ever it fails, the motor would stop and the counter should tell us exaclty when it stoped :D.
Sadly I have never worked with robotics or whatsoever, if someone could thorugh a few tips about small engines, would be nice :D.
Maybe something like this:
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Post by Dirk_Hendrik »

Ronsonic wrote: Maybe something like this:

Shit!
You've beat me to it! :applause:

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Post by Greg »

Ronsonic wrote: Maybe something like this:
I hadn't seen that before.. that thing is awesome !!
:applause:
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