Vero Board for SHO
im not sure on how to use Vero Board, its my 1st experiance building anything electrical (soldered a couple of time when changing pickups but thats it) is there a good website that has a step by step guild to it even better if its for building a SHO clone.
my main questions are what is the underneath of it meant to look like?
what does everyone mean when they say they are tracking on the vero board?
also if i got a large peice of vero board could i cut it up to fit or do i have to get the size needed?
i know there is a bit on "How to read a veroboard or stripboard layout?" but the link on that theard isnt working
thanks
sorry if its posted in the wrong area just it wont let me do it in the "Stompbox Builder's FAQs & How To's" section
my main questions are what is the underneath of it meant to look like?
what does everyone mean when they say they are tracking on the vero board?
also if i got a large peice of vero board could i cut it up to fit or do i have to get the size needed?
i know there is a bit on "How to read a veroboard or stripboard layout?" but the link on that theard isnt working
thanks
sorry if its posted in the wrong area just it wont let me do it in the "Stompbox Builder's FAQs & How To's" section
- Hides-His-Eyes
- Tube Twister
You just have to imagine that each of the copper strips is like one big wire that joins all of the components. As for what the underside should look like: each of the legs of the components pushed through from the other side should be cleanly soldered to the copper strip. There's nothing more to it than that.
Testing, testing, won too fwee
- jimbob_400
- Breadboard Brother
- Dr Tony Balls
- Diode Debunker
yeah, vero is just like a piece of board with connection strips on the back side. if two leads are soldered to the same strip, then they make a connection. You can also make a "trace cut" and cut one strip if it is to be used for two leads that dont need to be connected. This is usually done with a couple of twists of a drill bit to remove the copper and break the strip.
and yes you can break vero board down to size quite easily. use an xacto knife or other razor to score it where you want to make the cut then just snap it on the score line like a graham cracker.
here's a good vero layout for the SHO. look at it and compare it to the SHO schematic linked below and you'll get the general idea. the red outlined squares (2 of them) are meant to indicate a trace cut, and in this diagram the red and green colored strips are meant to indicate +9V and ground, respectively.

http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/193/schem ... ex_SHO.gif
and yes you can break vero board down to size quite easily. use an xacto knife or other razor to score it where you want to make the cut then just snap it on the score line like a graham cracker.
here's a good vero layout for the SHO. look at it and compare it to the SHO schematic linked below and you'll get the general idea. the red outlined squares (2 of them) are meant to indicate a trace cut, and in this diagram the red and green colored strips are meant to indicate +9V and ground, respectively.

http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/193/schem ... ex_SHO.gif