Guyatone - WR-2 Wah Rocker

ebuprofen · Post by **ebuprofen** » 22 May 2010, 10:12

Hey!

Anyone have this one? http://www.guyatone.com/Wr2.php
It's soo good sounding to me, had an idea to build one, but no luck on schematic

devastator · Post by **devastator** » 25 May 2010, 15:44

Maybe Guyatone gives schematic, I think I read that somewhere (not sure).

You explain that you've a broken pedal and want fix it .

ebuprofen · Post by **ebuprofen** » 25 May 2010, 20:49

devastator wrote:Maybe Guyatone gives schematic, I think I read that somewhere (not sure).

You explain that you've a broken pedal and want fix it .

that was a very good advice, thanks man

:D:D

so now, I have the schematic, but have trouble with the switching. Can anyone tell me what should I do, to replace the electronic switching, with TB? I a bit confused

RnFR · Post by **RnFR** » 25 May 2010, 20:59

done!

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 24 Jun 2013, 19:48

Bump to this question, could anyone explain how to replace the electronic switching with true bypass?

Thanks!

ebuprofen wrote:
devastator wrote:Maybe Guyatone gives schematic, I think I read that somewhere (not sure).

You explain that you've a broken pedal and want fix it .
that was a very good advice, thanks man :D:D

so now, I have the schematic, but have trouble with the switching. Can anyone tell me what should I do, to replace the electronic switching, with TB? I a bit confused

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 24 Jun 2013, 19:58

Also, could anyone tell me what are the weird symbols on the schematic that looks like zzz? It seems like they're electrolytics but the values are 1M\47M etc.

Thanks!

roseblood11 · Post by **roseblood11** » 24 Jun 2013, 20:33

It's the symbol for a polarized capacitor. 1M stands for 1µF (M = micro farad)

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 24 Jun 2013, 21:44

Thanks

Any idea about the switching?

mictester · Post by **mictester** » 24 Jun 2013, 23:30

LooseCannon wrote:Thanks

Any idea about the switching?

Why bother? The pedal won't affect your tone when disengaged, and it will actually help by doing an impedance reduction for you!

"True Bypass" is usually a waste of time.

rocklander · Post by **rocklander** » 25 Jun 2013, 00:16

mictester wrote:
LooseCannon wrote:Thanks

Any idea about the switching?
Why bother? The pedal won't affect your tone when disengaged, and it will actually help by doing an impedance reduction for you!

"True Bypass" is usually a waste of time.

because that's what he wants?
I'd be interested too.. be happy to make up a layout for it but these days I try to ensure my layouts fit into a 1590a. removal of any extra cctry is a must and to be honest the average dpdt stomp actually takes up more room than the average tpdt stomp. .. room in a 1590a is at a premium

atreidesheir · Post by **atreidesheir** » 25 Jun 2013, 00:42

I like the bypass in my guyatone micros.

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 25 Jun 2013, 04:03

mictester wrote:
LooseCannon wrote:Thanks

Any idea about the switching?
Why bother? The pedal won't affect your tone when disengaged, and it will actually help by doing an impedance reduction for you!

"True Bypass" is usually a waste of time.

I'm building it, not modifying the original, so I don't wanna use all those extra parts necessary for the switching.

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 26 Jun 2013, 12:28

Anyone?

square wave · Post by **square wave** » 26 Jun 2013, 16:34

If I'm reading the schem right, the footswitch is SW1 (SW2 being the blend toggle) controlling transistors-as-switches so that when the pedal is 'on', Q2 is closed and Q1/Q4 are open, and when it's 'off', the reverse is true. So, to replace that with true bypass, rip out SW1 and everything it connects to, short Q2 and leave Q1/Q4's paths open, then hook up a 3PDT switch as usual. I attached a microsoft-painted concept of what I'd consider changing. Axe the green, short the blue.

This is definitely something you'd want to test on a breadboard first.

square wave · Post by **square wave** » 26 Jun 2013, 17:19

Eh, my first post has some confusing marks, here's a concept without the mistakes.

square wave · Post by **square wave** » 26 Jun 2013, 17:52

And I find another mistake... I've left Q5's gate hanging. I'm not even sure Q5 is needed, because you've got R8 and C18 to stop any potential SW2 popping.

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 26 Jun 2013, 19:59

Thanks square wave!

I'm gonna breadboard it and see how it works.

What do you mean by short Q2?

square wave · Post by **square wave** » 26 Jun 2013, 20:02

LooseCannon wrote:Thanks square wave!

I'm gonna breadboard it and see how it works.

What do you mean by short Q2?

I mean that you're going to remove Q2, but you'll still want that connection it makes between R26 and R6. I'm thinking you'll want to do the same thing to Q5.

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 26 Jun 2013, 20:25

That's what I thought, thanks for the clarification.

LooseCannon · Post by **LooseCannon** » 27 Jun 2013, 03:15

So the only thing SW2 does now is add c18 after r26?
But it seems to me that since we've shorted Q2 both of C18's legs are now connected with each other.

Guyatone - WR-2 Wah Rocker [schematic]