BAJA Brighton Fuzz - (an updated silicon fuzz face variant)

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 08 Jun 2010, 11:35

good spotting

the schematic is correct BUT the PCB is wrong, HOWEVER the PCB works fine so no need to panic

The REALLY IMPORTANT thing to note, is that the 100 resistor and 220uf capacitor decouple the fuzz face transistors part of this circuit OR you will get enormous hiss from the circuit when running it from a 9v DC power supply without this power supply filtering.
The op amp does not need this filtering as it has it's own internal filtering

.
The PCB includes the power supply decoupling to include the op amp supply - no problem though, although it does not require the extra filtering.
Hope that makes sense to you all.

I can change the PCB tracks to match the schematic but it really does not make any difference to the circuit's operation - honestly!!!
cheers
bajaman

roseblood11 · Post by **roseblood11** » 08 Jun 2010, 12:38

The PCB is correct, the schematic is wrong

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 09 Jun 2010, 00:36

Okay - I bow to the pressure - here is the CORRECT schematic - the same as the PCB

cheers
bajaman

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 09 Jun 2010, 00:45

AND - before someone else chimes in

HERE is the slightly CORECTED PCB

No prize for spotting the difference

cheers
bajaman

JOHNO · Post by **JOHNO** » 09 Jun 2010, 06:48

bajaman wrote:Hope that makes sense to you all.

Makes perfect sense to me, didn't mean to cause you extra work. Thank's Baja.
Johno

JOHNO · Post by **JOHNO** » 09 Jun 2010, 07:33

bajaman wrote:HOWEVER the PCB works fine so no need to panic

Yes I know it does, here is one I prepared earlier. I used the TLO62 Ic ,work's fine.

Photo 29.jpg

You can see by the picture what I mean about the output jack not fitting correctly, It's because I have the wrong jacks

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 09 Jun 2010, 08:20

I don't know where Aron over at the other forum got those off centre plastic jacks which I use for my projects - I can't seem to access his store any more

I have found a source for Fender jacks that appear to be the same or very similar - Fender has been using them in their amps since 1999 up to the present day. - www.tubesandmore.com

If anyone knows of a better source for these perhaps they could let us all know.
cheers
bajaman

HEAD · Post by **HEAD** » 09 Jun 2010, 09:13

Hi Baja,

though not the best source for you I guess, but for us European Builders have a look here: http://uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/prod ... 7c446ec897
Like those very much:

Cheers
Helge

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 09 Jun 2010, 11:02

Hi helge
Thanks for the link but they are not the same off centre ones unfortunately

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 09 Jun 2010, 11:07

Okay
This should help you all out - I have reworked the PCB and Layout to accomodate NEUTRIK NYS 215 jacks - These are available from many sources - smallbear in NYC has them for US$0.85 each too.
I am sure Banzai etc have them in Europe.
Cheers
bajaman

HEAD · Post by **HEAD** » 09 Jun 2010, 11:19

bajaman wrote:Hi helge
Thanks for the link but they are not the same off centre ones unfortunately

Damn! Sometimes I should read more carefully!!! Stupid me - you are right!

JOHNO · Post by **JOHNO** » 09 Jun 2010, 21:16

bajaman wrote:I have reworked the PCB and Layout to accomodate NEUTRIK NYS 215 jacks

This is really kind of you baja, thank's. I'm not saying any more on this one cause every time I do it make's more work for you.
Johno
P.S just had a look over at aron's and he doesn't seem to have those jack's anymore baja.

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 09 Jun 2010, 21:35

Hi JOHNO
No problem mate

I think it is best to design all my on board jack projects for the Neutrik NYS-215 jacks in future, because those off centre jacks are much more expensive (Fender parts0 or non existent now (Aron's store).
The Neutrik jacks are REAN - they have been around for years now and are easily obtainable AND cheap too

I realise now that it is pointless designing ready to build projects with virtually unobtainable parts

silly me

Cheers
bajaman

aquataur · Post by **aquataur** » 16 Jun 2010, 19:38

Just stumbled over this thread. Great stuff bajaman.
Like your box design too

- very vintage.

I see you use isolated jacks, I hesitated to utilize those because I thought they were not rugged enough. Are they?
This of course has the advantage that you can put the metal case at a different potential than ground as you have done it. Does this in your experience give any improvement in noise?

I did the same trick on my strat when I shielded it and the difference was enormous

-helmut

SPeter · Post by **SPeter** » 18 Jun 2010, 12:54

http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/204_ ... tlist.aspx

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 18 Jun 2010, 13:46

Thanks for that SPeter

- the original sockets I am using in my projects including the Baja Real Tube Drive are: Neutrik NRJ6HF1 with NRJ-NUT-B plastic threaded nuts.
Does anyone know a good cheap supplier of these

Cheers
bajaman

bajaman · Post by **bajaman** » 18 Jun 2010, 21:39

Mouser has the slim offset hole plastic Neutrik sockets and nuts that I use in my builds (you have to order them separately!)

I just ordered another 100 sockets from them.

cheers
bajaman

Waimana · Post by **Waimana** » 20 Jun 2010, 09:39

thanks for this bajaman, great sounding fuzz

used a 10KB pot for gain & found all the change squeezed into the last 1/10th turn

will try a reverse audio pot ....would stringing a 10k resistor across a 100kB pot acheive this?/

cheers

JOHNO · Post by **JOHNO** » 26 Jun 2010, 23:07

Waimana wrote:used a 10KB pot for gain & found all the change squeezed into the last 1/10th turn

Thats odd, I had the same problem. I just used a 1k lin and that rectified it.

Waimana · Post by **Waimana** » 28 Jun 2010, 20:52

Thanks Johno, will give that a try